795775 Kenmore - Instructions

Remove 2 screws and then disconnect wires to the bulb sockets. Reconnect the wires Reinstalled lamp case , tab end first then replaced the 2 screws and the Lens cover. In addition, I changed out the incandescent bulbs to a much cooler LED bulb.

As per utube

0) Look on the internet for a DIY/or pro-shop Video
1) Pull the refrigerator away from the wall, unplug the power cable
2) Shut off the water at the wall valve
3) Disconnect the water line at the inlet valve on the refrigerator (lower corner, right side), this is a threaded pipe fitting requiring a small open end wrench
... Read more />4) Remove the lower rear panel
5) Remove the water inlet and distribution valve assembly, there is one sheet-metal screw holding the assembly to the back edge of the refrigerator.
6) Carefully pull the assembly out of the back of the refrigerator, leave the distribution water lines attached, note the orientation
7) Disconnect the electrical connectors, note the orientation/types
8) Disconnect the water line from the inlet valve, remove the retaining clip, then pull out the line. Note - a small metal star shaped tube fitting may come out with the valve, this is fine and will not be used again.
9) Remove the inlet valve from the assembly (there are two small sheet-metal screws that are very tight, the correct/precise size, good quality Philips head screw driver is necessary or use a small set of vice-grips to grab the head of the screw)
10) Attach the new valve to the valve assembly, connect the electrical connectors, note - at the plastic refrigerator water line that connects to the inlet valve, trim/cut a small section off the end of the water line before connecting it to the valve. This will provide a fresh interface for the connection. Push the line in firmly and then install the retaining clip.
11) Perform a quick functional check before putting everything back together - Attach the water line from the wall, turn on the water, attach the electrical connectors, plug in the refrigerator power cable and test for operation and leaks.
12) Assuming no leaks/operational issues, unplug the refrigerator power cable again, turn off the water at the wall, disconnect the water line at the inlet valve and reinstall the valve assembly and rear panel. Reconnect the water line and plug in the power cable and you should be good to go.!

I replaced solenoid, flapper heated door, and broken spring. Very easy instructions on "YouTube"

I followed the directions! It was so easy that I bought another switch for my sister's fridge (same as mine). Her light was out too!

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back ... Read more into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

Have had the Sears repairman come to the house to replace this part in 5 minutes for +$100.. twice. When my dad's stopped working, ordered the part and replaced it myself for the cost of the part and shipping.
Use a screw driver to pry the right side of the switch and pull out. Best to watch a youtube video first. Takes about 5 minut ... Read more es.

After watching a few iTunes videos I was able to order the light switch from part select and within a week I had the new switch. I had a little trouble getting the switch out. I used a flat screw driver and taped around the edge to keep from damaging the wall inside. I found the clip on the right side and had to use some force to get it p ... Read more opped out, you may need to use pliers to disconnect the switch.

An easy way to get a refrigerator out from the wall is to use a tow strap or 1/2 to 3/4 in. rope. Throw a loop behind refer while keeping both ends in your hands. Let it settle down to the lower half of unit and pull using both hands. Comes right out.
Remove lower panel. Unscrew water valve from cabinet. Remove all tube holders L ... Read more ay some rags down to catch a little water drainage.
Turn off water supply valve at wall. Unplug Power. Remove filter and filter holder. (one screw).
remove tube from valve by removing plastic C clip. Push plastic ring towards the valve and pull out tube at same time.
With the tube free, remove filter, then mount screw to remove the inside filter holder. When it is out, pull the tube doing the same process as the lower end. Pull tube out and replace with new one putting everything back in reverse order.
Before placing tube holders back on, turn on water to check for leaks.
After turning water back on and plugging in power, push refer back into place.
While I was there, I also replaced the hose from the wall to the refer.

The old switch was a little hard to get out....took me a couple tries. I couldn’t move the frig out to unplug it, so just shut the power off in the kitchen. But, I was happy that’s what the problem was and so happy to have the light back on......it was probably three years it didn’t work!

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water disp ... Read more enser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

Unplugged the refrigerator. Used small flat head screw driver to push the front tab of the old switch in and pulled it out with pliers. Detached and reattached the wires to the switch. Reinserted back into hole. Plugged refrigerator back in to power. All good.

Removed old rails and tapped new rails in place. The big problem was finding how to fix the drawer. After searching many online websites, It was my good fortune to find Partselect and a one of their service representatives who
knew how to fix my drawer
and they had the part.

Unplugged the refrigerator, Taped around the edges of switch as I had read to prevent possible scratches, used very thin flathead screwdriver to pry out old switch, unplugged old switch, plugged in new switch, put it back in opening, plugged fridge back in, and I had beautiful light! Hardest part was unplugging the refrigerator!

1. Removed old bin from ice maker(pulled it out manually).
2. Inserted replacement bin.
Total time is less than 30 seconds.