79577244600 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water disp ... Read more enser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

Used a screwdriver to remove covers. Used a blow dryer to defrost coil in freezer. Cut zip tie and removed old controller assembly. Inserted new controller assembly and secured with zip tie. It took 24 hours for the fridge to cool completely. Now it works fine.

Pulled fridge away from wall, unplug electrical connection, open fridge door, use knife to prize out door switch, pull off and replace switch from electrical wiring.

Used a screwdriver to take off broken clip and then used same screwdriver to replace with new clip. Very easy.

1st, emptied top freezer basket, used drill to remove 3 mounting screws, held new rail guide in place, installed same screws into freezer wall. Hand tightened with hand screwdriver to avoid over torquing with drill.

pried out old switch, disconnected wires ,placed wires on new switch

I had previously watched a YouTube video (do this first!!) on a similar Kenmore model so I knew what to look out for: (1) turned off power, (2) took thin putty knife to slip under outer lip of switch (most screwdrivers are too thick), (3) wiggled switch at front end to release the tab, (4) unplugged from the socket, (5) plugged in new sw ... Read more itch, (6) popped new switch back into door, (7) turned on power. Voila !! Super easy. I couldn't believe it.

Very simple
Removed wire rack
Removed 3 phillips head screws, requires large phillips screw driver
Removed old rail guide
Installed new rail guide and screwed back in place
Reinstalled rack

Removed old rail by unscrewing 3 screws and put new rail on

Like the customer who put a review on your site before me, I was unable to complete the repair because the inlet tube did not fit my refrigerator. I was hoping to speak to someone regarding this issue.

After noting frost in freezer Right rail started to jam. Noted freezer door was closing crooked. Rail replacement resolved issue. It had been frosting up for some time so Rail must have been broken for a while. Check door seals they were not closing flush.

Pull off the grill cover and remove the 2 screws from the old part and simply screw in the new part. Don’t lose the screws there are no new ones with the new part. Replace cover.

removed 2 screws and replaced them on new part. Very easy.

It was so easy I opened the package and took part right out and put it on the refrigerator and bolted it down and that's it.

I took a very thin bladed screwdriver and took the old part out -carefully.
The new part fit in quite easily.