795755 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

After watching a few iTunes videos I was able to order the light switch from part select and within a week I had the new switch. I had a little trouble getting the switch out. I used a flat screw driver and taped around the edge to keep from damaging the wall inside. I found the clip on the right side and had to use some force to get it p ... Read more opped out, you may need to use pliers to disconnect the switch.

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back ... Read more into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

The old switch was a little hard to get out....took me a couple tries. I couldn’t move the frig out to unplug it, so just shut the power off in the kitchen. But, I was happy that’s what the problem was and so happy to have the light back on......it was probably three years it didn’t work!

Unplugged the refrigerator. Used small flat head screw driver to push the front tab of the old switch in and pulled it out with pliers. Detached and reattached the wires to the switch. Reinserted back into hole. Plugged refrigerator back in to power. All good.

Unplugged the refrigerator, Taped around the edges of switch as I had read to prevent possible scratches, used very thin flathead screwdriver to pry out old switch, unplugged old switch, plugged in new switch, put it back in opening, plugged fridge back in, and I had beautiful light! Hardest part was unplugging the refrigerator!

Removed old rails and tapped new rails in place. The big problem was finding how to fix the drawer. After searching many online websites, It was my good fortune to find Partselect and a one of their service representatives who
knew how to fix my drawer
and they had the part.

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water disp ... Read more enser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

pried out old switch, disconnected wires ,placed wires on new switch

Removed the large freezer drawer bin. Took out the 2 screws holding the door to the rail, pulled drawer off the rails and set it aside. Note: the drawer still has the non-sliding part of the rail assembly attached to it. Reached inside the freezer and pushed the tab holding each of the rails and slide out the old rails. Removed the bolts ... Read more on the freezer door holding the remaining part of the rail assembly (The white part). Attached the complete rail assembly to each side of the freezer drawer. Inserted the drawer and newly attached rails into the slots holding the rail. Slid the drawer in which allowed the rails to slide over the holding tabs. Checked door for in / out sliding easy and inserted the large bin back into the unit. I had purchased the full L & R rail assembly.

Pulled fridge away from wall, unplug electrical connection, open fridge door, use knife to prize out door switch, pull off and replace switch from electrical wiring.

viewed video and followed instructions was a piece of cake

I had previously watched a YouTube video (do this first!!) on a similar Kenmore model so I knew what to look out for: (1) turned off power, (2) took thin putty knife to slip under outer lip of switch (most screwdrivers are too thick), (3) wiggled switch at front end to release the tab, (4) unplugged from the socket, (5) plugged in new sw ... Read more itch, (6) popped new switch back into door, (7) turned on power. Voila !! Super easy. I couldn't believe it.

Replaced old hose and installed the new one. Was very simple with the instructions in your email..... step by step, could not of been any similar.... you guys rock

Like the customer who put a review on your site before me, I was unable to complete the repair because the inlet tube did not fit my refrigerator. I was hoping to speak to someone regarding this issue.

Watched a couple of YouTube videos and then went at it