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79573252301 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 79573252301
1 - 14 of 14

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old bushing worn and broken
23 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jerry from CORSICANA, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
removed the upper freezer door to access screws to remove lower door.
laid bottom door on its side, removed bad bushing, put new bushing in, put bottom door back on refridge, put upper door back on fridge. Door worked easy as when new. good closure of door and story..Happy customer, and wife even happier.....thank you....
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bottom door dropped slightly and bottom hinge area rubbing on steel door support
12 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Louis from PHILADELPHIA, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
removed 3 fasteners for top door and placed freezer door aside, then removed 3 more fasteners on bottom refrigerator door and place that aside. replaced bushing on lower door bracket and reversed the above procedure to reinstall doors.
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two screws and done
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Daniel from TROY, MI
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
part fit into slot and screwed them down
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icemaker stopped working
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Norris from Telford, PA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water disp enser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.
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Broken clip that keeps the lower holder cover from falling off bottom of refregerator
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Renita from FORT MADISON, IA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Used a screwdriver to take off broken clip and then used same screwdriver to replace with new clip. Very easy.
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Replace lower grill bracket
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from DICKSON CITY, PA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Pull off the grill cover and remove the 2 screws from the old part and simply screw in the new part. Don’t lose the screws there are no new ones with the new part. Replace cover.
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The ice maker fill valve died.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William from NEWPORT NEWS, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Went on line to see how difficult it would be to replace the valve. Through Google there was a video which showed in exact detail how to remove and replace the valve. Then went on line to find the replacement part which was readily available. The only problem was that the connection on the valve where the fill water enters the valve was l arger than the old valve. To fix that I went to a local Ace hardware store and found a nut that would fit the valve connection. Also don't forget to use a compression ring to keep the fill line secured when replaced.
Over all it was very simple and was in my "pay grade"
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Door Stopper had snapped off
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Lawrence from FALL RIVER, MA
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unscrewed what remained from broken door stop, aligned new one, screwed it in. Done!
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Refrigerator not cooling. Fan and lights not working also.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joe from SAVOY, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
In plug refrigerator. Pry old switch out with flat blade screwdriver. Disconnect wiring from old switch and plug into new switch. Push back into refrigerator. Plug unit back in. Lights and fan should now work. Check for cold air coming out in freezer.
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My ice-maker was making almost no cubes
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Lawrenceville, GA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Pulled the fridge out of its space. Removed a metal shield which covered the bottom 12" of the fridge with a Philips head screw driver. The water valve is on your right. turned off the water to the supply line. Removed the supply line using an adjustable wrench. Removed the water line gong from the pump into the fridge. It is held on with a "C" clip which can be pulled off with needle-nose pliers. Removed the old pump, held with one Philips head screw. Then installed the new pump, reconnected the lines, replaced the metal shield and turned the water back on. Vacuumed the fridge and its space before cleaning up. The ice-maker now works perfectly.
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Water was leaking into the ice maker and into the ice bucket
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Charlie from Huntsville, TX
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I removed the cover from the rear of the unit, with a screwdriver. Then with a adjustable wrench unscrewed the top nut of the water valve.I then removed the screw holding the valve to the wall of the fridge. Turned the valve upside down and removed the line going up to the ice maker. No tools needed here as it is a quick connect fitting.U se reverse order to install valve.I am 65 years old and if I can do this anyone can. Good luck from TX.
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Frig door not closing on its own accompanied by grinding sound
1 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Pennsville, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
IMPORTANT: REPAIR EASIER WITH ASSISTANT! Pull frig from kitchen cabinets & unplug. Remove food from freezer & frig doors. Have assistant hold freezer door closed against freezer. Remove hinge cap from top of freezer along with hardware using socket wrench. Carefully lift freezer door from hardware that joins the bottom of the freezer door to the top of the frig door. Rest freezer door upright off to the side. Have assistant open frig door & SUPPORT BOTTOM. Remove hardware from top of frig using crescent wrench & screwdriver. Carefully lift frig door off joint & lay on side to gain access to hardware on bottom. Remove hardware using a screwdriver & replace worn nylon bushing. Reverse disassembly steps. Remove frig & freezer door shelves & clean inside. Clean outside frig, especially the back vents. Clean the floor where frig lives & push back into place. Enjoy clean SELF-CLOSING, NON-GRINDING frig door!
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All Instructions for the 79573252301
1 - 14 of 14