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79096609501 Kenmore Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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8" burner would get red hot (High) with knob set on 4 or 5, them cool back down to the correct setting. In a few minutes it would be red hot again.
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Daniel from floyd, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed bottom drawer. Pulled Range out away from the wall. Unplugged Range. Removed 6 screws from top back cover. Removed top back cover to reveal the Infinite Switches behind the knobs. Pulled the knobs off of the Switches I wanted to change. Removed the 2 Phillips Head screws holding each switch. Pulled the wires off of the old Infinit
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e Switch and put them on the new Infinite Switch. I was careful to put each wire on the correct terminal from old to new switch. I then reassembled the Range in reverse order. I changed both 8" Burner Infinite Switches. I was only having trouble with 1 switch. But, upon inspection. Both Switches had burn marks on the top left of the switch.
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burner switch burned out
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Tom from Warfordsburg, PA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged the main cord to the socket in behind range. Took back panel off. Unscrewed switch from its position on face of range. Switch is not a look alike switch to original, so had to pay attention to the labeling on both switches as to their identity. Removed one line at a time from old switch and placed on new switch. Rechecked positi
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ons of the wires and made sure there was no binding of the wire positions when installed. Mounted switch to same position previous switch was removed. Reinstalled back panel, plugged in range and tested switch. Very easy repair as long as you can see the labeling on back of switches. I used a light having a strap that is positioned on my head for best lighting possible for one person repair.
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bad burner switch
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ALBERT from LITCHFIELD, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
removed six screws on back panel and two holding switch on front panel. pulled wire from switch and placed it on new switch,did same with next four wires. put back panel on .DONE works fine
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Control Rod On Switch Was Broken Off
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Richard from Williston, SC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
I looked at video and followed the instructions from the man in the video. I pulled out range and then unplugged range from electrical outlet. I removed screws from back and took back off. I then took the two screws out from front of switch. I pulled switch out and then removed one of the wires off and placed it in the same place on t
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he new switch. I did same on the other two wires. I then put switch back in place and tighten the two screws on front. I replaced the back on the range. I plugged range back into the receptacle, pushed range back in place. I put control knob on and then turned it on. The eye worked fine. Very easy!
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Burners on high all the time.
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Randy from Van, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Replaced control units that were malfunctioning.
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Element burned out in 15 months
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James from Basking Ridge, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Very simple, just removed three screws and pulled the top out and turned over and then removed the two screws holding the support bar. Removed and installed the element.Surprised to see that the element burned out in such a short time.
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Switch was Sparking
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Susan from Hillsboro, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
So simple....removed back panel, removed knob from front of range and removed 2 screws holding the knob in. Used needle nose pliers to pull wires off existing switch, placed wires in identical spots on new switch. Put switch post through front of range and put the 2 screws back in and the knob on. Finished and ready to go in less than 1
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0 minutes. No more sparking....
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Largest burner was not operational
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Kelly from Marietta, GA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
After turning off the power to the unit, we took it out of the countertop and unscrewed the base of the unit. We then unplugged the damaged coil and plugged in the replacement part. We then screwed the base of the unit back on and replaced the unit in the countertop. The largest burner now works.
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Hot Surface Light won't turn off.
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Justin from Madison, AL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
Unplugged stove. Quickly unscrewed back panel (4 screws). Popped the wires off one at a time attaching them to the new switch. Pulled the knob off the front, unscrewed screws, and put new switch in repeating previous steps in reverse. Put the panel back on, plugged it up, and pushed it back into place. Done.
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Infiniti switch needed to be changed.
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Ralph from Peoria, IL
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
Quit after getting shocked. New part had different configuration. Hard to see marking for pull and plug from old switch to new switch. New switch had different configuration. After all that and making sure switch worked, got shocked as stove was pushed back to wall. Some other issues with wiring has a shorting out problem. Maybe time to c
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all a pro or get rid of the stove and get the gas stove we have been longing for. Be sure to match points on pulling and plugging as the configuration may be different.
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RF burner only had High Heat.
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Garner from Sykesville, PA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplug the range, pull the knob off the front. Remove the screws from the cover plate behind the switch and remove the cover plate. Carefully pull one wire at a time off of the old switch noting the markings: "L1," "L2," "H1," etc., as the wire position may be different on the new switch. Put each wire onto the new switch as they are remo
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ved from the old one. Let the new switch hang from the wires while removing the 2 Phillips head screws from the front of the old switch and remove the switch. Hold the new one in place, start both screws, & then tighten them. Push the knob on the new switch. Plug the range in and try it. If everything works, install the rear panel and screws. I think that it took me longer to type this than it did to actually do the job.
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Oven turning off ater Pre- Heating
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Catherine from Bowie, AZ
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
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Nutdriver
Talked to someone who knows , DX'd the potential problem,looked for the part on your very user friendly website and your DX was exactly what my oven was doing, when the Thermo-Sensor arrived, I unplugged the oven, removed the metal back, took out the faulty Sensor, replaced it very easy then realized the plug was different, so called a fr
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iend who knows how to Solder and 2 hrs, later, my oven was repaired and I began baking an Apple pie to repay a friends kindness The pie was perfectly baked , my friend was happy and so am I ,the baker, just before the holidays Thank you Parts Select for helpful DX and speedy delivery - seems you saved Christmas for me.
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Cracked inner oven door
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Steve from Hollypond, AL
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed outer glass first ,then worked my way thru to inner glass..
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inner oven door glass broken
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Cheryl from Derby, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
I was unable to loosen the screws myself so I called my friends husband to help me. We watched the video together and followed the instructions. The door in the video was a bit different than mine but this repair was easy.
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Right Rear burner stopped working
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Joseph from Moorestown, NJ
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I read other experiences on line and determined that it was either the element of the control switch. So I decided to order the control. When deciding I had removed the upper back sheild and put it back on. Subsequently a couple of days later there were popping noises culminating in a flash and the stove went 'dark'. I figured that I had
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pinched a wire when I put the upper shield back on. I removed the shield and looked for black 'short' marks. None were visible. I went to the electric panel and tried to reset the 60 amp breaker. It wouldn't reset and momentarily the lights dimmed. Uh-oh! Went back to stove and opened area where the cord connects to the stove. Direct short- a lose terminal block bolt had welded itself to the chassis! I redid all connections and lined inside of stove back with duct tape- also redid the connections with bolts, nuts and lockwashers covered each with electrical tape. Now reconnecting electric I put the new switch in. Removed the knob from the front and started to transfer the wires from the back. This was a little confusing because the control I received looked different from the one in the stove. After some checking I looked closely at the terminals on each control and they had tiny number/letters on them like H1, Li, H2 etc. So I just transferred H1 0n one cntrol switch to H1 on the new switch- L1 to L1 and so on. Put it all back together, turned on power and everything is working great.
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