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79096533503 Kenmore Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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My oven door seal was worn and did not seat properly. It leaked heat.The infinite burner was not warming in the low heat positions
1 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Frank from PALM COAST, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I followed two very good videos on how to do the repairs. It took longer to clean all the disassembled parts and the glass than it did to actually do the repair.
A word of caution: Be sure to lock the door hinges in the open position before you lift out the door. They must be locked open to put the door back on. It's difficult to loc ... Read more k them open once the door is removed. Also when you replace the screws get them all aligned in the holes before you lock everything down.
The infinite burner switch was pretty easy to replace but watch out for sheet metal cuts when you are removing the back of the stove. I recommend gloves. My stove has a 12 inch infinite burner, but the parts list only mentions a 10 inch burner. Before I ordered it, I had to call the company to verify that it could be used for the 12 inch burner as well.
A word of caution: Be sure to lock the door hinges in the open position before you lift out the door. They must be locked open to put the door back on. It's difficult to loc ... Read more k them open once the door is removed. Also when you replace the screws get them all aligned in the holes before you lock everything down.
The infinite burner switch was pretty easy to replace but watch out for sheet metal cuts when you are removing the back of the stove. I recommend gloves. My stove has a 12 inch infinite burner, but the parts list only mentions a 10 inch burner. Before I ordered it, I had to call the company to verify that it could be used for the 12 inch burner as well.
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Cracked inside glass
0 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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patti from Greer, SC
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti
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Control will not work - only clock blinks
0 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sue from Lampasas, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.
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Broken globe in oven and burnt out light bulb
0 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sharon from Foley, AL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Easy as 1-2-3
Other Parts Used:
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When turning the switch on for the large eye I could hear an electrical short behind the switch.
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Kent from McHenry, MS
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Initially we realized there was a problem while cooking with the large eyes and we began hearing an electrical short behind the control switch. I unplugged the power from the oven/cooktop and removed the back panel where I could visually see soot on the switches where it was shorted. Careful while choosing your part from the diagram on P
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artselect.com. For the model FEF336ECJ, atleast for my oven, the eye switches were reversed and I ordered the small eye's switches! Luckily they have an outstanding customer support and immediately mailed out the new parts and a label to send the wrong parts back. Changing the parts out was very simple. Pull the oven out and UNPLUG IT from any electrical outlet. Remove the back panel. Double check from the label on the front of the control panel that you are working with the correct switch, and before removing the current switch, remove the wires one by one and place them on the new part to make sure you don't misplace these wires. Once the wires are connected to the new part, pull the plastic knob off of the old switch to reveal the screws on front of the panel. Place the new switch where the old one came from and fasten the screws back in place. Replace the knob, replace the back panel(for safety) and test the new switch before you push the oven back into place. If you can turn a screw driver, move the oven, and unplug the power, this easy do it yourself repair will save you possibly hundreds by not calling a repair/handyman who would absolutely love you to pay out the nose for such an easy task.
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really bad ugly streaks inside of glass
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John from Hemet, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
open door,throw the door latches at the hinges and remove door. Take the out of the outer panel so you can separate the glasses. remove clip that hold the outer glass in place. I ordered a replacement glass as I never thought that it would come clean it looked so bad, but it cleaned up like new so I now have a spare glass for my oven door
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. Just reverse the way you take it apart to put it back together.
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My burner would stay on high regardless of where it was set.
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Smtella from Wappapello, MO
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
We removed the back of the stove, unscrewed switch from the stove face and unplugged the wires from the old switch. The new switch was universal so I had to follow the numbers by the prong on the old switch to determine which was the correct prong to plug the wires, plugged them in, screwed the switch back to the stove face and repl
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aced the back Viola all fixed.
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broiler element burned out.
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Kellyjean from Springfield, MA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unscrewed the old element (2) screws, then unscrewed the (2) brackets holding the element up, pulled the element out of the back wall of the oven unhooked the (2) electrical wires and left them hanging. Installation is in the exact reverse order.
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oven would turn on and stay on regardless of set point
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robert from Mansfield, MA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Pulled oven from counter space unplugged unit unscrewed 9 - 1/4" tech screws then one more 1/4" tech screw that holds the sensor.Inserted the new element cut the two wire because it was a different connection stripped the wires and did the same to the old element but used the old plug.Connected the plug,plugged the over back in slid the u
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nit back and turned out on for a test.All is well,thank you!
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Large Burner On Glass Top Quit Working
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JILL from VIRDEN, IL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Took the back off and replaced the switch for that burner. Got alittle nervous because the switch did not look the same and the connectors were labeled differently, but it worked. Lost the red light button some how during the repair so when I turned the stove on sparks came out the back because the light connector was loose so I did h
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ave to order another one of those.
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Control Rod On Switch Was Broken Off
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Richard from Williston, SC
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I looked at video and followed the instructions from the man in the video. I pulled out range and then unplugged range from electrical outlet. I removed screws from back and took back off. I then took the two screws out from front of switch. I pulled switch out and then removed one of the wires off and placed it in the same place on t
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he new switch. I did same on the other two wires. I then put switch back in place and tighten the two screws on front. I replaced the back on the range. I plugged range back into the receptacle, pushed range back in place. I put control knob on and then turned it on. The eye worked fine. Very easy!
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bad burner switch
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ALBERT from LITCHFIELD, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
removed six screws on back panel and two holding switch on front panel. pulled wire from switch and placed it on new switch,did same with next four wires. put back panel on .DONE works fine
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aluminum foil melted on oven bottom
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Allen from wakefield, RI
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
It cannot be cleaned as it welded itself to oven bottom. Two screws in back of oven bottom and it lifted right out. The new bottom says "do not use aluminum foil" Very easy repair.
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Burner switch would not disengage, leaving +24VAC to the element.
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W3Works, from Fairport, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the heating element to prevent possible fire while waiting on the parts. Three nut-driver screws removed the back cover. Removed each of four wires and attached to new burner switch, one-at-a-time to prevent any screwups with reconnecting the switch. Unscrewed the old switch, Screwed in the new switch to the front panel. Repla
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ced the back panel and *poof*, good as new. Took as long to repair as it did to write this description.
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Burner Switch Shorted Out
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Stan from Sun City, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled the stove away from the wall, disconnected the power cable, removed the top part of the back where the switch was. In front there are two screws that are philip heads that hold the the switch in place. Be careful when replacing the wires. When you take one wire off, place it on the new switch in the the same position. The sw
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itch can be put back, but be careful of the angle, because it has four screw holes. Replace the switch, replace the back, plug the power cable in, and push the stove back to it's original position. Make sure there isn't anything on the burner when you test the switch.
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