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79096513404 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 79096513404
61 - 75 of 107

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When turning the switch on for the large eye I could hear an electrical short behind the switch.
  • Kent from McHenry, MS
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Initially we realized there was a problem while cooking with the large eyes and we began hearing an electrical short behind the control switch. I unplugged the power from the oven/cooktop and removed the back panel where I could visually see soot on the switches where it was shorted. Careful while choosing your part from the diagram on P artselect.com. For the model FEF336ECJ, atleast for my oven, the eye switches were reversed and I ordered the small eye's switches! Luckily they have an outstanding customer support and immediately mailed out the new parts and a label to send the wrong parts back. Changing the parts out was very simple. Pull the oven out and UNPLUG IT from any electrical outlet. Remove the back panel. Double check from the label on the front of the control panel that you are working with the correct switch, and before removing the current switch, remove the wires one by one and place them on the new part to make sure you don't misplace these wires. Once the wires are connected to the new part, pull the plastic knob off of the old switch to reveal the screws on front of the panel. Place the new switch where the old one came from and fasten the screws back in place. Replace the knob, replace the back panel(for safety) and test the new switch before you push the oven back into place. If you can turn a screw driver, move the oven, and unplug the power, this easy do it yourself repair will save you possibly hundreds by not calling a repair/handyman who would absolutely love you to pay out the nose for such an easy task.
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aluminum foil melted on oven bottom
  • Allen from wakefield, RI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
It cannot be cleaned as it welded itself to oven bottom. Two screws in back of oven bottom and it lifted right out. The new bottom says "do not use aluminum foil" Very easy repair.
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Purchased home where previous owner melted Aluminum Foil to bottom panel of oven.
  • Michael from Wimauma, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed 2 screws from rear of panel and dropped new panel in. Re-installed screws. Oven like new again. Aluminum foil was burning and emitting foul odor when oven was on.
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No current to the burner
  • terry from Pensacola, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Checked the burner and no power to heat the burner. removed the old switch and put on the new one.
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I had placed aluminum foil on bottom and it adhered to the surface.
  • Marilyn from Logansport, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed two screws and lifted out the ruined bottom. I set the new bottom in, but could not get the screws lined up so left them out. The bottom is heavy enough, it is not going anywhere. I am very grateful the part was available.
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broiler element burned out.
  • Kellyjean from Springfield, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unscrewed the old element (2) screws, then unscrewed the (2) brackets holding the element up, pulled the element out of the back wall of the oven unhooked the (2) electrical wires and left them hanging. Installation is in the exact reverse order.
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oven would turn on and stay on regardless of set point
  • robert from Mansfield, MA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Pulled oven from counter space unplugged unit unscrewed 9 - 1/4" tech screws then one more 1/4" tech screw that holds the sensor.Inserted the new element cut the two wire because it was a different connection stripped the wires and did the same to the old element but used the old plug.Connected the plug,plugged the over back in slid the u nit back and turned out on for a test.All is well,thank you!
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oven was too hot code f-10 came up
  • Donnie from McLaughlin, SD
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Pulled out range, unplugged power used nut driver to remove back and removed oven probe. Had to change end and reinstalled in reverse order.
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Temperature not correct.
  • David C from Huntington Beach, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers
Pull out stove. Unplug power. Remove four screws on each corner and loosen one screw in the middle. Remove back panel. Locate and unplug sensor connector. Remove one screw from sensor plate. Turn the sensor 45 degrees and pull sensor out from the rear. Connector received had the incorrect plug and terminals so it was necessaary to sp lice the connector from the one removed to the one received. Cut and splice wires as necessary. Install sensor, install back panel, plug in electrical power, push stove back into position. I used a temperature gauge to check temperature after stove was in position. In my case the temperature had to be adjusted which is a keyboard function on this unit.
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really bad ugly streaks inside of glass
  • John from Hemet, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
open door,throw the door latches at the hinges and remove door. Take the out of the outer panel so you can separate the glasses. remove clip that hold the outer glass in place. I ordered a replacement glass as I never thought that it would come clean it looked so bad, but it cleaned up like new so I now have a spare glass for my oven door . Just reverse the way you take it apart to put it back together.
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shorted out small element burner switch
  • Alvie from Walnut Cove, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First, I disconnected the electrical power by pulling apart the plug behind the range. Next, I removed the screws holding the service plate on back of the top panel.I removed the switch knob by gently pulling it from the stem. Underneath I found 2 screws holding the switch in the panel. I removed these with a phillips screwdriver.I was ab le to pull the entire switch out to the rear leaving all wires attached.The new switch looked different from the original and the wires were configured differently but the wires were clearly marked. By removing one at a time and placing it on the new switch to the corresponding marking,it was a simple matter to wire the switch.I reinstalled the switch in the panel,put back in the screws to hold the switch, slid the knob back on the stem, reinstalled the rear panel,and plugged the power cord back in.The switch worked perfectly.
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Broiler element broken
  • Robert from Newark, DE
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed broken element, four screws. Element ends were attached to the oven via wire clips. Removed those too. Placed clips on the ends of the new element and remounted to the top of the oven enclosure with the fours screens. Took twenty to twenty five minutes. We had Tbones a little while later. Saved over 125.00 for repairman.
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inner glass uncleanable
  • Krista from Newtown, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Took door apart, went online to partselect, ordered new glass, and put it back together. Oven looks like new. Makes sense to order the isolation as well when you do the repair
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inner oven door glass broken
  • Cheryl from Derby, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I was unable to loosen the screws myself so I called my friends husband to help me. We watched the video together and followed the instructions. The door in the video was a bit different than mine but this repair was easy.
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Door glass cracked
  • Mike from Collegeville, PA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Really straightforward - just took door off of the hinges and worked taking it apart until I got to the front glass that was cracked. Took it out and put the new piece in and reversed the process. Really easy and I got to clean each piece on the way back in to get rid of some spills.
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All Instructions for the 79096513404
61 - 75 of 107