79095034503 Kenmore Range - Instructions

First i removed the two screws that hold the element
in place. I the pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnect the 2 wires. The new one didn't come with the little holders at the front of the element and were very hard to get loose from the old element .i finally got them back on the new one and put it back in the stove. P ... Read more retty simple job though.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Took upper back off ( 6 screws), chech to be sure was right switch, pulled spade clip wires of, put on new switch, checked to see that it worked, replace cover.

The hardest part was pulling the oven away from the wall. Two bolts hold the sensor in place and a clip connects the electronics. Replacing the old one was trivial.

I took the brads that were left from the old gasket off with needle nose pliers. Then I put the new one on. It was very easy.

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!

Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it starte ... Read more d but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.

It went easy, I ordered the part from another vendor, received it in 3 days and it only took about 20 minutes to install.
I do not recommend ordering from PartSelect!

I am 78 years old and I watched the how to video twice and then did it so if I can do it anyone can,oh and I am a woman

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

I had open back cover and remove the switch than replace new switch. Makesure cable conection.

in the bottom of the oven when I was looking to see what was going on. My husband did the repair just as the video described. I suspect this part honeycomb round maybe ceramic piece goes over where the heat is vented from the oven. Where do I get another one of these and how does it attach in the oven-under t ... Read more he burner. HELP I tried to look on the schematics and did not see anything. The repair went fine, except when we turned everything back on it did not work. Then my husband remembered he forgot to plug the new part IN. Once plugged in it is working fine. Thanks

The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.

1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two ... Read more wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.

2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.

3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.

Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.

The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.