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79093019313 Kenmore Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Large front burner would not come on under setting of "3"
3 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steven from Edina, MN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced infinite control very easily.
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broken element
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Peter from LEWISTON, ME
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I followed instructions on your video. Took 10 minutes. My wife thought I was a pro.
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Surface element would stay on high no matter the position of selector knob
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Dale from VERMONTVILLE, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
First, make sure power is off to range. Removed backing cover, pulled one wire off infinite switch at a time to put in right place on new switch. Easy fix.
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Element would not heat up
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Everett from Colchester, CT
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed 2 screws located underneath the front lip of the range top. Lifted range top and supported. Removed the 2 screws at either end of the support bracket. This bracket holds the elements in position. Be careful not to let the elements fall out when removing. The elements are now free to replace. Swap out the old with the new and be su
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re to reconnect the wires to the correct terminals on the new element. I did 1 wire at a time so as to not make a mistake at reconnecting the wires. Then replace the support bracket with the 2 screws and lower the range top in place and put back the 2 screws that hold the range top in position. VOILA!! Success. It works. The wife is now happy again:)
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8" burners were not responding correctly to the switches
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Carl from W SAND LAKE, NY
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Pull range away from the wall. Unplug range. Remove back plate covering the switches. Remove defective switch. Use bent paper clip to press center of terminal connectors and disconnect terminals. Reconnect each terminal of new switch as you go to avoid confusing terminals and connectors. Re-attach switch. Plug in range and test elem
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ents. Clean range area. Push range back into place, being sure to engage the anti-tip safety device.
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Switch quit working and wouldn't turn
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Jim from UNIONTOWN, PA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Take handle off, then back cover. Of course unplug power. Switch wasn't built exactly like the original but all you have to do is connect each wire to the same letter, number code as on the old one . Works like brand new!
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The element gets very even the control is at minimum
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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adolfo from new york, NY
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed the defective part. Install the new part, insert the connectors. Now its working
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sparking element
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Phil from KERSEY, PA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
removed back and transferred four wires to new part and replaced back
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Arcing could be heard (and later seen) inside the switch
3 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Joel from North Mankato, MN
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.
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light bilb went out
2 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Denise from Landover, MD
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
replaced it
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Oven would not get up or stay up to selected temperature
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
wondell from Winnemucca, NV
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Pull stove out to get behind it,unplug temperature probe plug. Remove temp probe from oven by removing the screw holding it in place on back of oven. Cut plug off temp probe unit leaving as much lead wire as possible on plug end. Strip wires on new probe and end of plug wires(one quarter inch). Then I used two small butt connectors to joi
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n the stripped wires,one for each pair of wires. Two small wire 'nuts' may also be used as the connections are outside the oven and not exposed to the heat of the oven while it is in operation. Hope this helps the inexperienced 'do it yourselfers'--:)
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Cracked inside glass
0 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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patti from Greer, SC
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
I actually watched Youtube while I was changing it. This video was not actually the same make up of my oven, even though the I typed in the model number. I manage to figure it any with the steps anyway. It was harder then I expected but not horrible. I think I did pretty well for a women. Patti
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left terminal broke off from the base of the block causing circuit breaker to trip and not able to be re-set
0 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Fred from North Babylon, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Ensured breaker was off. My range is hot wired. Removed all cables from old terminal block with nutdriver. Used phillips head screw driver to remove old terminal block from back of range. replaced old terminal block with new one. Re-attached accessory cables to small terminals first, then the main cables to the terminal block using where
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necessary long nose pliers. It is important to make note of which cables are attached to each terminal of the block, so make a sketch PRIOR to removal. Also be careful how the cables are attached to the block. You are using 10 gauge cable with thick insulation. It is important that when pushing the range back into position the cable does not put too much pressure on the block as it will break it. That's exactly what happened to this last one. It probably cracked under the strain of the pressure of the cable and finally current running through it weakened it to the point where it broke off from the block causing it to short and trip the breaker.
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Burner would stay on and the hi-temp safety limit switch is all that would shut it off.
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Dana from Acton, ME
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Cut the range power. Removed the top rear panel. Removed the two burner switch screws. Pulled one wire at a time off the old switch and put it on the new switch. Since the terminal location did not match, it was critical to notice the terminal designation on the old and match it to the new switch. Ex., H1 to H1; H2 to H2. Voila! It worked
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the first time.
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Burner would no turn off.
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ALBERT from BENTONVILLE, AR
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
A Phillips screwdriver and pliers were all the tools required. At first glance, the physical appearances of the OEM and the replacement were not identical. The slide-on electrical tabs were numbered on each in the same way. Sliding off the connectors and re=connecting them on the same number tab on the new switch was all there was to i
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t.
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