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79091069600 Kenmore Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Large Burner On Glass Top Quit Working
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JILL from VIRDEN, IL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Took the back off and replaced the switch for that burner. Got alittle nervous because the switch did not look the same and the connectors were labeled differently, but it worked. Lost the red light button some how during the repair so when I turned the stove on sparks came out the back because the light connector was loose so I did h
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ave to order another one of those.
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element light staying lit
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Russell from Glenmoore, PA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Screwed up by not shutting breaker. Shorted out 3 switches. Thought i could get away without shutting breaker that was a costly error. No problem replacing the 3 switches and element switch. Took about 1/2 an hour.Always shut breaker before doing any electrical repairs.
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Burner would get hot, but would not turn down.
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Rick from Montpelier, IN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
To find problem. I turn the power off to range. Removed top back panel. Removed switch and found there was a black spot on white covering of switch. So I order a switch. When it came I turn power off to range. Removed the top panel on back of range. Removed one wire at a time and put it on the new switch. Once all wires were on new switch
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. I removed old switch and installed new one. I then reinstalled the top back panel and turned the power back on. It is really easy to do. If you are not confident enough. Take a picture of the back of range before removing the panel. Then take a picture of the wires before you remove them.
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element would not heat.
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Arnold from Carlsbad, CA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Replaced the control I got from you , even though it was a little different the lugs matched up and works great.
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the stove eye would go to high and stay
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ronnie from cana, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
watched the veido first then un pluged the stove then i took out 6 screws and 2 from the switch and reversed every thing
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Oven Temperture probe.
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Kenneth from Edgemount, SD
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set
Would have been simple if Frigidare had not changed the plastic snap wire connector on the part. The replacement part had a different snap together wire connection. After a couple of phone calls stating that the new part and the old part had different part numbers was informed that you have to snip off the ends and use wire connects but
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it was the right part. Once I knew that it was a simple repair if you have the wire connects to connect the wires.
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Switch was sparking
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Marshall from Newport,, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Took back cover off 2 screws held the switch then moved wires one at a time from old switch to the new one put everything back plugged in stove everything worked
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range top left big burner would not come on.
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ruben from moss point, MS
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I disconnected the power cord,took the top back plate off,the switch knob on the switch I was to change,the two screws holding it.pull the old switch out,place the new one in the holder,replaced the two screws that holds the switch and took the wires off the old switch one at a time and placed them on the new one in order on new switch.re
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placed the back cover and plugged power cord back in.turned range on,it was good. r taite,
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replaced the infinite burner switch
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Alvie from Pasco, WA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
I watched you vedio and done just as the vedio told me how to change the switch. When I got the switch on pluged it in turned it on and every thing work great. thank you very much.
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bad burner switch
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ALBERT from LITCHFIELD, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
removed six screws on back panel and two holding switch on front panel. pulled wire from switch and placed it on new switch,did same with next four wires. put back panel on .DONE works fine
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Temp did not match readout.
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John from Columbiana, OH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Replaced temp probe and checked OK. This model did not have a full back as the instructional video showed. No cover to remove at all. Only suggestion might be to include two wire nuts of proper size. Average wire nut would be too big. Fortunately, I happened to have a couple.
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RF burner only had High Heat.
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Garner from Sykesville, PA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplug the range, pull the knob off the front. Remove the screws from the cover plate behind the switch and remove the cover plate. Carefully pull one wire at a time off of the old switch noting the markings: "L1," "L2," "H1," etc., as the wire position may be different on the new switch. Put each wire onto the new switch as they are remo
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ved from the old one. Let the new switch hang from the wires while removing the 2 Phillips head screws from the front of the old switch and remove the switch. Hold the new one in place, start both screws, & then tighten them. Push the knob on the new switch. Plug the range in and try it. If everything works, install the rear panel and screws. I think that it took me longer to type this than it did to actually do the job.
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burner switch burned out
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Tom from Warfordsburg, PA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
Unplugged the main cord to the socket in behind range. Took back panel off. Unscrewed switch from its position on face of range. Switch is not a look alike switch to original, so had to pay attention to the labeling on both switches as to their identity. Removed one line at a time from old switch and placed on new switch. Rechecked positi
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ons of the wires and made sure there was no binding of the wire positions when installed. Mounted switch to same position previous switch was removed. Reinstalled back panel, plugged in range and tested switch. Very easy repair as long as you can see the labeling on back of switches. I used a light having a strap that is positioned on my head for best lighting possible for one person repair.
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Burner switch would not disengage, leaving +24VAC to the element.
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W3Works, from Fairport, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the heating element to prevent possible fire while waiting on the parts. Three nut-driver screws removed the back cover. Removed each of four wires and attached to new burner switch, one-at-a-time to prevent any screwups with reconnecting the switch. Unscrewed the old switch, Screwed in the new switch to the front panel. Repla
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ced the back panel and *poof*, good as new. Took as long to repair as it did to write this description.
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Burner Switch Shorted Out
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Stan from Sun City, AZ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled the stove away from the wall, disconnected the power cable, removed the top part of the back where the switch was. In front there are two screws that are philip heads that hold the the switch in place. Be careful when replacing the wires. When you take one wire off, place it on the new switch in the the same position. The sw
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itch can be put back, but be careful of the angle, because it has four screw holes. Replace the switch, replace the back, plug the power cable in, and push the stove back to it's original position. Make sure there isn't anything on the burner when you test the switch.
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