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79090904604 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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Back Burner didn't function
136 of 152 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from Burke, VA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years
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passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
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Oven wouldn't operated. Error code F9
76 of 101 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Centennial, CO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).
Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet m ... Read more etal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.
Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet m ... Read more etal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.
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Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
69 of 116 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paul from Spokane Valley, WA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven,
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and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
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oven did not heat up
73 of 130 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tim from ASHAWAY, RI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Replaced the probe because that's what this site recommended.The oven still does not heat up.
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If burner was placed on HIGH, it wouldnt lower heat once LOW setting chosen
38 of 40 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Juilo from Lake City, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I had to replace the switch in the back of the control knobs. I was very grateful to the female phone attendant who answered my call. Since my part number had switched a few times, she took the time to reverify the "blueprints" of my machine with the parts carried at Parts Select and she helped me be assured that I was buying the correc
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t part for my machine. She was SOOOO helpful. Will definately buy again from your store.
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Front Burner was on high all the time when on
32 of 36 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gregory from Monument, CO
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turn off the breaker to the stove. Very important because when you move the control panel around after removing it, you can inadvertently touch a hot wire to a grounded metal part on the stove. Remove the 3 nuts from the back of the control panel and the two nuts from under neath the control panel on either far side. Pull the control kno
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b off by pulling straight away from the control panel. Remove the switch by unscrewing the two screws. Match the 5 wires from the old switch to the new switch by removing one at a time and paying attention to the labeling of each on both switches. Reassemble in reverse order. Turn breaker back on.
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oven temp not consistent with setting
72 of 157 people
found this instruction helpful.
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john from spring, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
took off back cover and unplugged old unit and installed new unit. oven probe was not the issue. probally control panel malfunction of readings. will continue using oven temperatue gauge inside to get settings for temperture as temp is important for baking.
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trouble code F10 low oven temperature, oven not overheating,low resistance reading on ohm meter
19 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael J from STATEN ISLAND, NY
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turned off electric,removed rear panel and replaced part.oven is now operating good as new.
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oven would not heat up error code F10 showing on veiw screen
17 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jess from DEWEY, OK
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
move the range out and unplug power supply, removing the back cover allows access to the probe, this can be done with screw driver or nut driver, loosen clamp that holds power cord in place and move backing out of the way, be careful sheet metal can be sharp, locate the probe unplug the connector and remove screw holding probe, pull ol
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d probe out install new probe, fasten down and plug in connector. attach backing and tighten clamp on power cord, plug in to power supply, turn on oven and give it several minutes for probe to work, it took only 20 minutes to replace the bad probe and the oven works like new hop this helps
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Large burner would turn on high and not cycle off
17 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kevin from Nashville, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
TURN BREAKER TO RANGE OFF! Move range out to access rear of the unit. Remove 6 screws to gain access to rear of controls panel. Pull knob off switch. Remove 2 pan head Phillips screws to take switch out. Lugs not in matching pattern but are clearly labled, swap wires one at a time. Reverse the disassembly steps and push the range bac
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k in place. DONE
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Range would start beeping and needed to be unplugged.
15 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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George from TURNERSVILLE, NJ
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Remove 4 screws on back panel. Unclip wire connector and remove probe and install new probe.
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Electric burner switch shorted out.
9 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Armando G from Alice, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First I unpluggd the range and removed the back cover using a nut driver. Then I removed the knob by pulling (using a little force),Not very hard to do. I uscrewed two screws that hold the switch from the front of the range. Then I pulled the switch out about three inches and used pliers to disconnect the wires one at a time and connec
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t them to the new switch. finally I finished the installation by reversing all the steps. Total time to install the switch took approximately 5(five) minutes.
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Large burner wouldn't heat
15 of 31 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Phyllis from Elberon, IA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed back off of stove. Removed two screws that held in the switch, removed the wires that were connected to the switch and replaced the part.
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Oven light bulb went dark; it needed replacing
10 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lise from CEDAR GROVE, NJ
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!
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Oven light stayed on & smelled like electrical burning.
16 of 35 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Vincent from Brunswick, GA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Wife was cooking our thanks giving turkey, when an oder of burning was noticed. I walked over to the oven and smelled the area of oven light, it was bad. I turned off and unpluged oven. Got a screw driver, unscrewed 4 screws then noticed the burned switch from under the oven top. removed 3 wires, covered w/ elec. tape, and pulled oven lig
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ht switch out front. looked at part number and ordered online. We were able to cook our turkey and enjoyed our meal.
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