79090814404 Kenmore Range - Instructions

It snapped right into the drawer, was very easy

The repair went relatively easy especially after reading that another homeowner found the door to be "spring loaded". I was prepared and made sure I held onto things tightly.I removed the screws as I came to them and carefully removed the other 3 pieces of glass, finally reaching the inner panel. Putting that in and holding it as I put t ... Read more he next piece back was the most difficult. Once that was in place, the rest was just a matter of redoing what I undid. Needless to say, I was a bit nervous the first time I used the oven. No problems though, works like a charm! Thanks!

First of all I would like to comment on how it easy it was to place this order and I was pleasantly surprised that it was rec'd the next day. Also it was the correct part that I needed. To install it, first I removed the screws and then the metal that was holding the broken glass. Once the broken glass was removed, I set the new glass ... Read more in the metal strips and basically screwed it back together. Please note to be careful to remember which screws go where as they are not the same size and do not fit anywhere but where they belong. That was the only part of the job that I had a problem with.

made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!

At the Frigidaire parts website, I found the parts and saw that there are videos that show how to replace the burner controls. In brief:
1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood.
2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four).
2a) The video also suggests usin ... Read more g a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that.
2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it!
3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot.
3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong.
3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch.
3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob.
4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four.
5) Replace the cover.
6) Slide the range back into place.

I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.

Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

I took the brads that were left from the old gasket off with needle nose pliers. Then I put the new one on. It was very easy.

The front glides easily snap into a hole on the sides of the range. The rear glides easily snap onto the sides of the lower rear of the drawer.

I couldn't unscrew the leveling foot because it was rusted and corroded. The bracket holding it was easy to remove so I took the bracket with the corroded foot off and replaced it with the new foot and bracket. Very simple. I made sure I oiled it so it wouldn't rust again.

Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.

Watch video. This oven had the connecters that popped off and on which made this task easy.

Pulled stove out and unplugged it.
Used a Phillips screwdriver to take the back cover off of the control panel.
Each of the 7 lights connects to the red Indicator Light Lens via a slide clamp which is attached to the front of the light assembly. All you have to do is slide the lens into the hole from the outside of the control p ... Read more anel. Then with your other hand, pust the light assembly into the back of the lens and slide it to lock it in place. Repeat with the others.
Replace back cover.
Plug stove back in and slide back into place.
There are you tube videos out there to help you.

Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it starte ... Read more d but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.

It went very well. Very quick. Just took out a couple of screws, took out the rest of the broken glass, slipped the new piece in and screwed it all back together. This was the first time I had ever tried to fix any part of a range/oven before, it was very simple...

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block ... Read more clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.