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79090133705 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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Element burned out.
6 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Pamela from FRIDLEY, MN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
Turned off power at the circuit box. After locating 1/4" nut driver (the hardest part of the repair)I removed the oven racks. Took the opportunity to wipe out oven. Removed the two screws holding the element in place.Pulled element out gently to expose the connections. Wiggled the terminal connector off the terminal on element. Gave the w
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ire a little bend to keep it from pulling back into frame. Repeated process on other side. Removed new element from wrapper. Placed element on oven floor, reattached terminals--making sure they were on snuggly--carefully slid terminal ends back though slots in oven body. Lined up brackets, reinstalled screws, replaced racks and turned power back on. Turned oven on it worked. Made cookies! Very easy repair.
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switch had a diffirent lug configuration
9 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Andrews, SC
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
made a drawing as to where the wires were to placed on the new switch,took longer to do this than finding right tools. Important safety tip,always pull off the required breaker!!!
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Both front burners began heating too fast and too high. One damaged the finish on the splash pan.
7 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from WILMINGTON, DE
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
At the Frigidaire parts website, I found the parts and saw that there are videos that show how to replace the burner controls. In brief:
1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood.
2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four).
2a) The video also suggests usin ... Read more g a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that.
2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it!
3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot.
3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong.
3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch.
3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob.
4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four.
5) Replace the cover.
6) Slide the range back into place.
I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.
Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.
1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood.
2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four).
2a) The video also suggests usin ... Read more g a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that.
2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it!
3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot.
3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong.
3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch.
3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob.
4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four.
5) Replace the cover.
6) Slide the range back into place.
I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.
Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.
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Oven temperature ran very high
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Juliette from BRINKLEY, AR
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
When the part arrived, I open the box. Cut off my breaker to the range. Pulled back the stove and unscrewed the back. Located the probe, unscrewed the one screw that held it in. I then unclamped the white connectors, remove the old probe, replaced it with the new one reclamped the connectors. Screwed it back into the range. Replaced th
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e back and screwed that back together. It was so easy I was very proud of my self. I cut the breaker back on and cooked a can of biscuits just to see if it really worked. And it did. My bread was not burned, it was cooked to perfection.
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Broken ; oven door inner glass
5 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Garland Futrell from CHESAPEAKE, VA
- Very Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.
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Crack in inner door glass
6 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Richmond, IN
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
Removed two screws that are attached to handle then removed four screws from bottom edge of oven door. I was then able to remove the outer door glass,this gave me access to the three inner glasses. After removing the retainer for the glass assembly,I was able to remove all three and replace the inner one.I reversed this proceedure to re
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assemble.
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slow to get to temperature
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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SHAUN from ALBUQUERQUE, NM
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
first the temperature sensor then the igniter. started to do the igniter by using common sense then I used YouTube which made it a lot faster.
the temperature sensor installs from the back of the stove, the igniter installs from thr front ie, the drawer and inside oven.
the temperature sensor installs from the back of the stove, the igniter installs from thr front ie, the drawer and inside oven.
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L.F. large burner element either on full hot or off. Would not cycle in and out with element control switch setting.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gerald from MADISON HTS, VA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Disconnect power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box. Remove 240 volt service electrical plug to range. Remove back top panel to expose element control switches. Remove element control switch to L.F. burner by first pulling off the control knob. You may need to use a large flat screw driver to pry behind knob to get it starte
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d but it should come straight off. There are two screws revealed under knob that need to come off. Then the element control is easily, but carefully, removed out the back. Be careful you do not pull the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch off right above the element control switch. If you do, this will break the end off the plastic "Hot Surface Indicator Light" lens. If this happens you can still replace it but you will need to use super glue to make the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch stay connected to the clear lens. Install new element control in reverse order before gluing the "Hot Surface Indicator Light" switch as stated above or you will knock it off again. While holding the old element control in your hand with wires still attached, remove one wire at a time (making note of the location code for each wire) from old element control and install on new control. The new element control layout for the wire prongs will be different so you need to make sure you look for the code (like L1, H1, P) located on each prong location and put the same coded wire from old element control location onto new control prong code location. Reinstall new element control (with wires pushed fully onto prongs of new control) into panel with screws removed before. Reinstall knob, reinstall panel cover and reconnect range power plug. Restore power to Range at Electrical Service Panel control box With electric power restored, test element control by turning it on and see if it properly cycles on and off at different settings. If working properly you should be able to hear it click on and off and element heating and going off accordingly.
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Burning electrical smell and "buzzing"
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Louis from Beloit, WI
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block ... Read more clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block ... Read more clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
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oven temp was not heating up to desired temp and using an oven thermometer to confirm
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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philip from CLIFTON, NJ
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
moved the range out to access back
removed 5 screws from back panel
removed 1 screw from thermostat installed new one
replaced screws, done in 20 minutes
problem solved
removed 5 screws from back panel
removed 1 screw from thermostat installed new one
replaced screws, done in 20 minutes
problem solved
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Burners getting too hot.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Leslie from CONCORD, NC
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Watch video. This oven had the connecters that popped off and on which made this task easy.
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element burnt out
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Demoris from GOLDSBORO, NC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
purchased a square bit and removed screws easily and disconnected it from the wiring and pushed in the new element secured screw and it was back to baking.
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The oven bake element developed a hot spot which failed shortly after the hot spot developed.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Dave from BRISTOL, VA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Unplug the stove or disconnect at the breaker. Open the oven and remove the bake racks. Using a nut driver (or Phillips Screwdriver) remove the screws (one per side) that secure the bake element. Place them in a safe/secure place outside of the oven. Carefully pull straight back on the element until about 3 inches of the wire, that connec
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ts to the element, is exposed. Carefully unplug the wire from each element (make sure that the wire does not pull back into the oven insulation. I placed a small metal clip on each wire). Remove the old element and plug the new one in. Put everything back in the exact same way you took the old one out. Power the oven up and preheat your oven. Monitor this - should be no problem at all. Very simple process. My first attempt at this and it was very easy.
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The screw holes for the previous handle became stripped. The new handle came with longer screws which shoul d prevent stripping.
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from THOMASVILLE, GA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Taped face of the oven door with masking tape to hold in in place while screwing the new screws into the new handle.
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crummy chrome drip pans were worn out. replaced wtih enamel ones.
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Katherine H. from SEAL BEACH, CA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I just pulled the old ones out of the sockets, cleaned underneath, and replaced with new ones. No-brainer.
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