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79078679406 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 79078679406
1 - 15 of 82

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Oven wouldn't heat - broiler and burners worked fine-Bake Burner Igniter didn't work
190 of 229 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Debbie from Rockford, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
It was the week before Thanksgiving and we didn't know what to do without an oven. I did some research on Google and of all the websites out there, I found a decent price here at Parts Select and ordered it on Friday. I was shocked when FEDEX pulled up to the door on Saturday afternoon. I went online to youtube and found a step by step video specifically for this part. It's posted by the Repair Clinic. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLxKoF16gac. I was able to fix the part and probably saved at least $150.00 for a service call and repair time. The part cost about $90 and I was done in less than 15 minutes. We just got this stove about 2 years ago and I'm thinking maybe we could have saved my old stove since it had the same problem. Great job Parts Select - I got just what I needed and saved a ton of money in the process. Thanks also for their great informative video online. We had a great Thanksgiving and were very thankful for all our hot food fresh from the oven.
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Above 400 beeper went off & code numbers came up on read out
78 of 89 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Russell from Lake Havasu, AZ
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver
Cut off power at fuse panel. pulled stove out from wall went behind stove removed back panels in area of sensor that I could see from the front side, inside oven. Located sensor from rear & unpluged senser from wiring bundle reached inside oven & removed screws from sensor. Pulled sensor out & threaded wire through hole. Took old & new sensors to bench in shop. Plug on new not the same as old. Had to change plug Cut and stripped wires. Wire is very small, need to use a good stripper. Twisted wire together & soldered connection, used shrink wrap to insulate wire. Took part inside and reinstalled in reverse order. Used 1/4 inch nutdriver on total job start to finish.
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Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
69 of 116 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Paul from Spokane Valley, WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
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anti-tip bracket not installed
35 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Panama City Beach, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act f ast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.
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The burner would not light by itself, and the flame was lopsided.
26 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Roland from Auburn, ME
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
The repair was nothing, but the diagnosis was a bit tricky. After carefully looking at the burner head, (cast aluminum) I pretty much figured out that the 4 small cast aluminum bumps that keep the burner cap positioned up in the air the correct amount to allow gas to flow under the cap, were worn down, preventing the gas from exiting pro perly by the igniter. My guess was correct. The new burner head solved all my problems. I love Parts Select for the ease of finding the correct parts and how fast they ship their orders. Great company, great service. Keep up the good work
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Lens missing for burner "on" indication
22 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carol from Houma, LA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Lifted the oven top, removed the controls cover, slipped the lens into the hole and slid the light holder device onto the lens
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The oven would not ignite on bake setting
19 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from NOBLESVILLE, IN
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After reading a lot of reviews online, I came to the conclusion it was the bake igniter. The "glow rod" would glow but would not ignite the oven. The broiler would ignite and the top burners would work. I removed the racks, took a screwdriver and removed the 2 screws in the back corners. I then slid the bottom shield towards the back then lifted up and the shield came off and exposed the flame shield. I removed the screws the hold that in place on the front of the oven with my 6 way screwdriver. I used the nutdriver part. Lifted that off which exposed the the actual flame tube and bake igniter. There were two screws, used the nutrdiver on the 6 way screwdriver, holding the bake igniter on. The screws are on the side of it. Removed those and the igniter came free. I pulled out the warming drawer and followed the wire from the igniter to a wiring harness. Pulled that apart and pulled the whole thing out through the oven. Got the new part, reversed order of removal. Fired right up. Pretty pricey part. But, saved 500+ dollars for a new range. Actual removal and install of new part, maybe 20 minutes if that. Super easy.
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No heat when turning oven on.
18 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from Edgewater, FL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Started by replacing element which was clearly broken. Still no heat. So then I changed the oven sensor. Was disappointed that when I received the sensor I had to cut and splice the connector that was on it with the old one that came off the old sensor. Did that and still no heat so I had to buy a new clock/timer. Went to another store fo r that because of the connector not being the right type and there was no picture of the clock/timer like the other website. Overall ok, normall troubleshooting steps, just wish I didn't have to cut and splice the connector on the new sensor I purchased from here.
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oven bottom had foil stuck on it would not come off
15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ronald from brownsburg, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the two screws that hold the bottom panel I then pulled the panel out and put the new panle in and put the two screws back in
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Regulator had propane leak past diaphragm
14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Albern from Bainbridge IS., WA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Wrench set
removed two screws disconnected inlet pipe and two outlet pipes, removed regulator. Replaced with new regulator. performed leak Test.
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Right front ignitor would not light
12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Terry from Acton, MA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed grates and range cover, unscrewed all sheet metal screws and removed cover plate. Disconnect electrical connector and then removed old ignitor/orifice ass and replaced it with the new one. Replaced all screws in cover plate and then reattached range cover and grates. Turned on the gas and it lit after a few sparks took place.
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Oven would not ignite, gas smell, igniter glows
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from PORT JEFF STA, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Disconnected power, I removed the igniter from oven. Measured the resistance (275 ohms) and then the current draw. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS UNLESS YOU ARE ABLE TO ACCOMPLISH THIS SAFELY. I made a harness and connected the old igniter to 110 V ac, Current draw thru the meter settled at 2.7 Amps. Too weak to fully open gas valve. Valve require s 3.2 - 3.6 amps to fully operate properly. New igniter measured 300 ohms and current draw was 3.4 amps. Installed new part and everything works fine. Correct part and good service from this site
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Oven would kick off after preheating to temp.
12 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mary from Castle Rock, CO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver
Sensor very accessible. Pull off the back panel, disconect the sensor and slide out from back of oven. The original plug was cut off the sensor, as well as the new one to get the proper connector type on the new sensor. Soldered and heat shrink, and presto we had our new sensor ready for install. Install was about 5 minutes which included putting the back panel on the range. Pretty easy and works like new. Total time for project was about 20 minutes.
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broken ceramic burner element
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Phillip from Saint Simons Island, GA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Simple: remove the element by hand and replace new one.

I can't believe how quickly I received my new part -literally next day.
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Oven light bulb went dark; it needed replacing
10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lise from CEDAR GROVE, NJ
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!
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All Instructions for the 79078679406
1 - 15 of 82