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79075741990 Kenmore Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Igniter replacement
9 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Livingston, MT
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Burner set screws froze up, was able to break 2 of 3 free and broke 3rd off. Used new simular screws to re- thread and fasten burner back in place. Bit of work but everything working. Used oppertunity to clean and re-level while I was at it. Everything good to go.
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error sensor on display when oven was used
8 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Clarence, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I looked up the error code on line and found it was likely a faulty oven temp sensor. I was able to find the part and diagram at partselect.com and placed an order. The probe was in stock and arrived within a couple days. The repair took only about 20 minutes and works fine now. Thanks for your help partselect.com!
Jim
Jim
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Oven light bulb went dark; it needed replacing
10 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Lise from CEDAR GROVE, NJ
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!
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burner cap missing
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eloise from Indianapolis, IN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
ordered received and placed it on the stove!! it was that easy!
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The latch for locking the oven during the self-cleaning cycle was broke and would not lock
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
carlton from crescent city, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I first lifted the top of the stove up where the burners are then removed 7 philips head screws plus the 2 screws that hold the latch in place, which is just above the oven door. I pulled the old latch off the rod that goes to the lock motor.I hen put the new latch in and replced all the screws. Turned the self-cleaning cycle on and it w
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orked perfectly.Thanks to the help of repair guy at Parts Select and the pictures made the repair simple and fast. Thank You Patrs Select
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bad igniter electrode on rear left burner
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from SHELBYVILLE, TN
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
If you intend to replace the igniter electrode ( part no. PS436633), purchase a minimum of twelve (12) top burner mounting screws ( part no. PS437925).
I also recommend that you replace all the electrodes since you have gone to the lengths described below to replace one igniter electrode.
After time, the heads of the ... Read more mounting screws become brittle and break off when attempting to remove them with a 3/16" socket or nut driver.
Be aware that even the new screws are not exactly 3/16 hex, nor do they truly accept a 4.5 mm, or 5 mm socket. The 5 mm has to much slop, and the 4.5 mm, and 3/16" do not fully seat over the head.
First unplug the stove, and turn off the gas.
To remove the broken screws, I had to use a hand grinder to grind the heads off (you could be as careful as possible, but you will still damage the porcelain finish of the range top.) Unfortunately every screw has to be removed to lift the range top up enough to gain access to the electrode(s).
Along with the broken screws being in the burner casting, to replace the electrode, you have to remove the burner to work on it. Remove the insulated wire from the electrode, and then the gas line to the burner.
I recommend inspection of the insulated wires to see if they may be grounding out to the stove body. With the top removed and the burners still in place, plug the range back in. Turn any knob on (all electrodes should spark at the burner accept the bad one(s)). Observe the wires to see if there is sparking to the stove body. If there is none, continue to replacement instructions. If a wire is sparking to the body, wrap the damaged wire with HEAT RESISTANT tape. Standard vinyl electrical tape won't withstand the heat.
To remove the burner from the gas line, use a 1/2" open end wrench (preferably a tubing nut wrench) to remove the gas line along with an adjustable wrench to hold the burner to prevent damaging the gas line.
If your lucky, the cross point (Phillips head) screw that secures the electrode will remove without stripping, but don't count on it. I had to grind those screw heads off as well.
I used a size no. 30 cobalt drill in my drill press to attempt to remove the broken off screws, but because of the screw/drill size, I could not keep the bit on the hardened screw center, it kept walking off center. I ground the screws flush to the burner surface, used a center point drill, a center punch, and a spring loaded set point punch, nothing worked to keep the bit from wandering off center and into the soft metal casting.
I had to drill new holes with the no. 30 drill bit just to the right (or left) of the existing holes. Keep the same orientation and mounting distance when drilling, either to the right or to the left.
The new burner mounting screws did not work for mounting the electrode to the burning, I used small no. 6 self tapping screws to mount the new electrodes to the burner casting (the washer head was to large).
Reconnect the gas line(s) to the burner(s). It will be necessary to carefully bend the gas lines so as to line the new holes up with the top when remounting the burner(s).
If I had it to do over again, I would just donate the range as is, while explaining the problem to the donation center. After my experience, I personally don't think it is worth the trouble of replacing the electrodes on a range this old.
Hope this helps.
I also recommend that you replace all the electrodes since you have gone to the lengths described below to replace one igniter electrode.
After time, the heads of the ... Read more mounting screws become brittle and break off when attempting to remove them with a 3/16" socket or nut driver.
Be aware that even the new screws are not exactly 3/16 hex, nor do they truly accept a 4.5 mm, or 5 mm socket. The 5 mm has to much slop, and the 4.5 mm, and 3/16" do not fully seat over the head.
First unplug the stove, and turn off the gas.
To remove the broken screws, I had to use a hand grinder to grind the heads off (you could be as careful as possible, but you will still damage the porcelain finish of the range top.) Unfortunately every screw has to be removed to lift the range top up enough to gain access to the electrode(s).
Along with the broken screws being in the burner casting, to replace the electrode, you have to remove the burner to work on it. Remove the insulated wire from the electrode, and then the gas line to the burner.
I recommend inspection of the insulated wires to see if they may be grounding out to the stove body. With the top removed and the burners still in place, plug the range back in. Turn any knob on (all electrodes should spark at the burner accept the bad one(s)). Observe the wires to see if there is sparking to the stove body. If there is none, continue to replacement instructions. If a wire is sparking to the body, wrap the damaged wire with HEAT RESISTANT tape. Standard vinyl electrical tape won't withstand the heat.
To remove the burner from the gas line, use a 1/2" open end wrench (preferably a tubing nut wrench) to remove the gas line along with an adjustable wrench to hold the burner to prevent damaging the gas line.
If your lucky, the cross point (Phillips head) screw that secures the electrode will remove without stripping, but don't count on it. I had to grind those screw heads off as well.
I used a size no. 30 cobalt drill in my drill press to attempt to remove the broken off screws, but because of the screw/drill size, I could not keep the bit on the hardened screw center, it kept walking off center. I ground the screws flush to the burner surface, used a center point drill, a center punch, and a spring loaded set point punch, nothing worked to keep the bit from wandering off center and into the soft metal casting.
I had to drill new holes with the no. 30 drill bit just to the right (or left) of the existing holes. Keep the same orientation and mounting distance when drilling, either to the right or to the left.
The new burner mounting screws did not work for mounting the electrode to the burning, I used small no. 6 self tapping screws to mount the new electrodes to the burner casting (the washer head was to large).
Reconnect the gas line(s) to the burner(s). It will be necessary to carefully bend the gas lines so as to line the new holes up with the top when remounting the burner(s).
If I had it to do over again, I would just donate the range as is, while explaining the problem to the donation center. After my experience, I personally don't think it is worth the trouble of replacing the electrodes on a range this old.
Hope this helps.
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Oven door glass cracked in half
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Janice from Northbridge, MA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
First of all I would like to comment on how it easy it was to place this order and I was pleasantly surprised that it was rec'd the next day. Also it was the correct part that I needed. To install it, first I removed the screws and then the metal that was holding the broken glass. Once the broken glass was removed, I set the new glass
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in the metal strips and basically screwed it back together. Please note to be careful to remember which screws go where as they are not the same size and do not fit anywhere but where they belong. That was the only part of the job that I had a problem with.
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Oven door inner glass cracked after cleaning
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lisa from Erial, NJ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
The repair went relatively easy especially after reading that another homeowner found the door to be "spring loaded". I was prepared and made sure I held onto things tightly.I removed the screws as I came to them and carefully removed the other 3 pieces of glass, finally reaching the inner panel. Putting that in and holding it as I put t
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he next piece back was the most difficult. Once that was in place, the rest was just a matter of redoing what I undid. Needless to say, I was a bit nervous the first time I used the oven. No problems though, works like a charm! Thanks!
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broken lens over oven light
11 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Leslie from Warsaw, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
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bottom drawer for storage- broken pull
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Melanie from Verona, WI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
removed face screws from drawer. Previous poster described our problem exactly- middle screw on drawer pull had come loose and fallen down, which probably caused the pull to break in the first place, just as his had done. Replaced handle- very easy and like brand-new. Great site- easy to navigate and find the right parts, very fast shippi
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ng.
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Refrigerator Light bulb went out
7 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ANGELA from MEBANE, NC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.
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While removing burned out light bulb, the glass cover fell to the floor of the oven and broke!!
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Phyllis from GAINESVILLE, GA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in
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the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)
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The glass on the enter oven door was broken
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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leslie from Pickerington, OH
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
It went very well. Very quick. Just took out a couple of screws, took out the rest of the broken glass, slipped the new piece in and screwed it all back together. This was the first time I had ever tried to fix any part of a range/oven before, it was very simple...
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Broken Glass on Exterior of Range/Oven Door
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from Walton, KY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Remove 8 #2 Phillips Tipped Machine Screws from exterior sides of oven door. Remove Shell/FrameClean. Clean any remaining glass/debris. Insert new glass into frame. Install frame onto oven door. Install screws.
Time saving tip. Clean all surfaces including interior glass beforehand for best and fastest results.
Time saving tip. Clean all surfaces including interior glass beforehand for best and fastest results.
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Repaired Oven Range Light Bulb
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Alan from SAN MATEO, CA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
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