79070602010 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I am an HVAC tech by trade so it wasn't difficult to diagnose problem with safety valve. The hard part was being without an oven for a week. Repair was simple and effective--oven works good as new.
Shut off gas and unplugged oven. Removed floor of oven between broiler and bake section, used wrenches to disconnect gas line from safety valve in back of oven, used philipps head screwdriver to remove burner assembly and gas valve, reversed process to replace. Checked out operation--OK.

Turned off power, took back off stove removed old probe.
I had to splice wires since new probe ends did not match up.
the instructions were to splice the wires. I had the breaker off for about 3 hours. this is not in the instructions, but being a widow, I had to ask a few people why it would not come on after I connected the wires.
After waiting, I turned the breaker on and my range came back on.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.

Unplug range, remove oven racks, remove 2 screws at the rear of oven bottom sheet metal panel. Lift the back of the panel and slide to the rear a little , then remove panel. Remove nut on top of heat shield and remove shield.. Open broiler draw slightly Note wire connections to gas valve. Remove Philips head screw from sheet metal guard bottom left rear to access wire connection. remove 2 hex head screws the hold igniter in place and install new igniter. remove spade connectors from gas valve and connect spade connectors from new igniter. , remove molex connector from bottom left rear and connect one from new igniter..Install shield in left rear bottom. install heat shield over burner and install nut. Install sheet metal panel in bottom of oven and 2 rear screws.. install oven racks and plug range back in. set clock and test your repair.

order pcs fit perfect.

One night I found a mouse living in my stove. We found it literally living underneath the top of the stove (the part where the burners are that you have to lift up). The insulation on the inside of the stove was literally covered with mouse poop, dog food, dog treats, and scraps of food among other things. It was totally nasty and I thought we would have to buy a new stove. However, I searched online and found replacement insulation on PartSelects website and ordered it. It was cheap and the fix was removing old insulation, vaccuming out and cleaning the stove then replacing the insulation with the new one. PartSelect had a great price and shipped promptly.

Slide out the old; slide in the new!

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Apparently, the original insulation had been removed due to a mouse infestation-the unit had been in storage for a while. After removing about 50 screws, I had all the body panels off and cleaned out the interior of the stove then installed the new insulation. I put it all back together and hooked it up- works just like new. I only paid 60 bucks for this oven, so all in all, not a bad deal.

Ordered new racks and replaced them.

Slid oven out removed one screw one plug replaced part took 5 minutes.told parts repair the error message and they sent me the correct part in two days will use them again saved me from Repair man wanted 85 dollars just to look at it my cost was 28 for probe and 8 dollars for shipping already helped neighbor with their stove they needed new ignighter 12 dollars repair place want 110 to come look at it this site walks you through repair best service!!!!

The hardest part was pulling the oven away from the wall. Two bolts hold the sensor in place and a clip connects the electronics. Replacing the old one was trivial.

Unplug the range, remove racks. Remove 2 screws from the bottom back corners ( this was the hardest part. I used a stubby screwdriver, but a longer one would be better. They are fairly long screws). Remove oven bottom, lifting from the rear. Remove burner cover. Bottom left corner is a triangle cover. Remove this too. Remove the 2 screws holding the old igniter in place. The igniter unplugs easily. ( I used pliers, the plug has a clip, and pliers grip better.) Install new igniter ( it only fits in one way ) reinstall mounting screws and covers. Replace oven bottom. (I didn't replace the 2 screws. The bottom sits solidly, and they are a bit of a pain.) Plug in, set clock, test for oven to fire up.

It was a replace racks not repair. No problem