790468090 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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top electric burner not working
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Frank from CHESTERTOWN, NY
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
2 screws disconnected old one and pulled out the new one in put in opposite way. The representative was so helpful, part came fast. thank you
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Thermostat. Didn’t cut off at set temp
5 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Everette from HARRISBURG, PA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Phillips screwdriver used to remove 2 screws at top left in oven. Pulled thermostat out until I could get to the connector. Used pliers to hold wire, reconnected new plug , threaded it back into back of oven and reattached the two screws.
Saved $150 on a service repair call.
Saved $150 on a service repair call.
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Element had burned out
4 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Pearland, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Extremely easy. Two screws and electric connection that had easy pop on-off connection.
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oven not reheating after initial heat up
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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christine from addison, PA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
unscrew the sensor inside the oven; took off the back of range to access harness of sensor; the replacement part harness did not match up to the original, so we stripped the clip from the end of the part and also the end of the harness in should clip into. after joining the wires together with ceramic wire nuts we tested the oven to mak
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e sure all worked AND IT DID!
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Lens cover for the oven light
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Larry from COZAD, NE
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
Very easy just had to pull the wire up that holds it secure.
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burnt out element
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rockie from KEIZER, OR
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Followed instructions on website. Went perfectly.
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Bake element burned out in my slide in range
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Sheila from Dayton, OH
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Turn off circuit breaker
Open oven remove two oven racks
Position flash light
Remove two Phillips head screws that hold the element in place
Gently slide out element until you locate the two small wires
Gently Detach the two small wires from the back of the burned out element
Position the new element in the ... Read more bottom of the oven and attach the two small wires to the back of the new element
Gently slide the element back in place and replace the two Phillips screws that hold the element in place
Make certain the new element is lying flat on the bottom of the oven
Replace the two oven racks
Turn on the circuit breakers and test the oven
Open oven remove two oven racks
Position flash light
Remove two Phillips head screws that hold the element in place
Gently slide out element until you locate the two small wires
Gently Detach the two small wires from the back of the burned out element
Position the new element in the ... Read more bottom of the oven and attach the two small wires to the back of the new element
Gently slide the element back in place and replace the two Phillips screws that hold the element in place
Make certain the new element is lying flat on the bottom of the oven
Replace the two oven racks
Turn on the circuit breakers and test the oven
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Replace the dual-element burner in glasstop range
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from RESTON, VA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.
1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two ... Read more wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.
2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.
3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.
Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.
The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.
1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original.
* Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer.
* The two ... Read more wiring terminals/docks were swapped.
* So had to attend to where the wires were going.
* Worked, just needed some observation & thought.
2. MOUNTING HOLES
a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45.
b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions.
c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it.
d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.
3. WIRING IS REVERSED
As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.
Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.
The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s
the inside-burner circuit.
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Oven Bake Element caught fire
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Julia from NEW BADEN, IL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Unplug the oven (very important). Unscrew the bad element and screw in the new one. Plug oven back in.
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Front Glass
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William from North Port, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed bottom bracket and installed new glass very easy
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Heating element broken
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from HIGH POINT, NC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I followed the instructions from the lady taking my order she talked me through the steps
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F10 Error. Temp sensor at 1189 room temp ohms
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Oscar from Scranton, KS
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
1. Loosened 2 sensor mounting screws and removed them. 2. Tripped range circuit breaker to off. 3. Pulled out the range but left gas connected. 4. Loosened the 4 screws on RH side of the top back panel and carefully pried that side of the panel open. 5. Using fingers, threaded the sensor's wiring harness through insulation and into the o
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ven. 6. Unplugged old probe. 7. plugged in new probe. 8. tugged wiring harness back through insulation behind the oven. 9. Using 2 screws removed in 1 above, mounted new sensor. 10. Repositioned top back panel and fastened it in place. 11. Shoved range back in. 12. Tripped range circuit breaker to on. 13. Reset clock. 14. Set oven to 450 for test tun. 15.
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lens was broken
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kenneth from Coeur d'Alene, ID
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
after pulling away from wall and unplugging remove 5 screws in upper back panel lift off being careful of sharp edges if part of lens is still in hole push it out towards the front insert lens from front of unit slide light assy over pin on back of lens replace back panel plug in range push back against wall check for level you're done
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Replcement of inner door glass which had shattered
4 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael A from Fairhaven, MA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed the door from the range, disassembled the door, removed all broken glass fragments, installed the new glass, reassembled the door and reinstalled the door into the range. Straightforward and easy. Keep track of which screws go where and it is a breeze.
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Element would not heat up
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Everett from Colchester, CT
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed 2 screws located underneath the front lip of the range top. Lifted range top and supported. Removed the 2 screws at either end of the support bracket. This bracket holds the elements in position. Be careful not to let the elements fall out when removing. The elements are now free to replace. Swap out the old with the new and be su
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re to reconnect the wires to the correct terminals on the new element. I did 1 wire at a time so as to not make a mistake at reconnecting the wires. Then replace the support bracket with the 2 screws and lower the range top in place and put back the 2 screws that hold the range top in position. VOILA!! Success. It works. The wife is now happy again:)
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