79046573401 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

I usually try the cheapest part to replace when I come to a fork In the road but I wasn't home at the time and my other half called in the "expert". He said it was the clock timer and it would be $450 to replace it. She sent him away and I bought one online for $200 and put it in only to find out that it didn't solve the problem. Did s ... Read more ome reading and found out that it could be the sensor. Put an ohm meter on it and found that to be the problem. Left the new clock timer in it anyway so now we're good for another 100,000 cookies or 1000 pizzas, which ever comes first

Simply took oven out of wall, removed back plate, unplugged old sensor, went in the front and unscrewed old sensor, put in new sensor, went in back and plugged in new sensor, put on back plate, push oven in wall. Turn on power

Turn off breaker to the oven. Removed four knows by pulling them up and out. Using either a large flat blade screwdriver or adjustable wrench (depending upon stove top model) remove threaded style holders at each burner switch control to remove the glass clock control top panel. Remove glass panel and note ldgasket position. Place glass p ... Read more anel on top of stove top on a cloth towel to prevent scratches. Remove 8 screws and remove/lift up burner control assembly. Invert and place on its side to gain access to broken contol switch. Took a picture of wiring and close up off switch to help remember where each wire plugs into switch. Remove 2 Phillips screws from the old switch and remove from panel. Using a flat blade screwdriver gently remove one wire at a time and using knob to orientate the off position of the new switch. Remove each wire one at a time and install on the new switch. Compare numbers on both the old and new switch to assist where each wire goes. The numbers are beside each terminal and using a flashlight and magnifying glass will help making the job easier. DO NOT mix the wires up. Use the 2 longer screws and threaded bracket supplied fasten the new switch to the glass panel. Reinstall the glass panel using the screws removed and thread on clips at each switch and tighten using a large flat blade screwdriver. Be sure to route the wiring to not pinch the wires and install the gasket along the front edge which fills the gap along the burner top and side for a tight seal keeping water and food particles out. The infinite control switch has letters such as H1, H2 etc as the switch fits several models with different wiring diagrams and colours so it's impt to note this when transferring the old wires to the new switch. Also the gasket along the top glass edge ensure to note exactly how it is placed to reinstall to be exact when you reassemble. Replace the 4 control knobs by pushing them on after aligning to fit as they were removed. New switch should be positioned the same as the others with off at the top and a notable click. Be sure to note this when transferring wires from the old to new switch. Turn breaker on. Note: If you have minimal skills this should be left to someone who is an electrician or has repair experience in this field.

Pulled out stove, took side panel off on switch side of oven, unplugged old switch, pulled the old switch out the front of the oven, put in new switch and plugged it in. Then put oven back together and pushed it back into space. (Make sure to turn oven off at breaker box before you make repair) you could easily get shocked if you don’t.

1. Remove all four control knobs.
2. Unscrew all four plastic "nuts" found under each knob holding front
panel to stove.
3. Lift front panel off.
4. Removed all Phillips screws holding metal shield to which control
switches are fastened.
5. Lift entire assembly up.
6. Remove two screws ... Read more holding bad switch to metal shield.
7. BEFORE REMOVING ANY WIRES LABEL EACH WIRE
ACCORDING TO CODE EMBOSSED ON BACK OF BAD
SWITCH. These will be H1, H2, L1, L2 and P. They are not in
the same place on the new switch as they are on the old one.
The reason for labeling is that in case you make a mistake you
have this back-up to go by. Also to double check your finished
job.If just one wire is connected to the
wrong terminal a disaster will happen.
8. Remove each wire, one at a time from the old switch and connect
it to the correct terminal on the new switch as indicated by the
codes on the back of the new switch. When done double check
to be certain the labels on each wire match the code for the
connected terminal.
9. Slide furnished bushing onto the new switch.
10. Insert new switch through the back of the metal shield and attach
with the supplied screws. The old screws were too short in my
case so be certain to use the ones supplied with the new switch.
11. Re-attach the shield assembly to the stove.
12. Install the front panel back over the switch stems.
13. Secure the front panel with the four plastic nuts.
14. Install the control knobs.
15. Test the new switch.

1 Turned off the oven breaker.

2. Removed the oven racks.

3. With a Phillips screwdriver, removed the mounting screws holding the temperature sensor and unplugged it.

4. New sensor plug did not match 20 year old connector. Had to cut and solder splice the connectors.

5. Installed the new sen ... Read more sor and now oven holds temperature steady.

Easy order, quick delivery and easy installation, happy wife.

bought drip bowl from big box store and the 8 inch did not fit . yours fit perfect will use you for future diy jobs thank you

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

I just pulled the old ones out of the sockets, cleaned underneath, and replaced with new ones. No-brainer.

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in ... Read more the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

Turned off breaker to range then removed all element control knobs. Unscrewed retaining collars I suppose is a good word removed panel. Then removed bad switch installed removed one wire at a time and placed on new switch in proper places. Reassembled in reverse order turned breaker back on worked perfect.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block ... Read more clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

Drawings on web site somewhat hard to read, resulting in more
disassembly than actually necessary. Turns out, simply removing the
threaded plastic securing rings around the bases of the controls frees
up the faceplate, and allows access to the phillips screws that hold down
the bracket. Then it's a simple matter to rep ... Read more lace the control unit by
swapping out the leads one at a time from old to new. Be careful when
re-attaching those plastic securing rings, they can cross-thread pretty
easily.

I was required to remove the control panel to access the plug as it had been broken and the switch had been shoved into the unit . It would have been extremely simple if the plug had remained on the outside surface
My son can now clean his dirty oven