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79046252400 Kenmore Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Oven not heating to desired temperature
155 of 244 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dan from Bellevue, ID
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Replaced clock control by removing surface burner control knobs and plastic nuts, and then the cover over the oven control. Two screw hold the clock in place, after removal and disconnecting the plug-in you can reinstall the new clock control. The Heat Sensor inside the oven will also need to be replaced. It is located inside the oven
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and attached with two screws; the back of the oven will need to be removed to unplug. Reverse removal procedure and turn the power back on to the stove.
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Broil element wasn't working...
93 of 132 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kevin from Alexandria, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I pulled my unit out of the wall and noticed that the insulation around the top broiler element was a bit brown. Closer inspection revealed that the element had shorted somehow to the oven itself and caused the element to become non-functional. I tried measuring the resistance first, and it was within typical values for the other elemen
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ts, but I decided to replace the element anyway.
I ordered from PD and the part arrived just a few days letter by regular shipping. I undid the screws holding in the element, undid the wire connectors and replaced the broken element with the new one. The element worked like a charm and I was back in business for cooking.
I ordered from PD and the part arrived just a few days letter by regular shipping. I undid the screws holding in the element, undid the wire connectors and replaced the broken element with the new one. The element worked like a charm and I was back in business for cooking.
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Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
69 of 116 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Paul from Spokane Valley, WA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven,
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and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
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corroded terminals
22 of 25 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Gary from hollywood, FL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing
to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair
dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff
to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair
dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff
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Block terminal burnt out, hot plate not working, needed to replace the terminal block
17 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Shaun from Whitehall, MD
- Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting
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it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.
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Oven would not maintain correct set temperature.
17 of 26 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barbara from RAINBOW CITY, AL
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed electrical connector and two screws. Attached the electrical connector to the new probe and attached with the two screws.
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Noticed oven was heating but upper element not coming on.
14 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from LEXINGTON, SC
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed two screws holding broiler element. Released two spring hangers on near the front of the element. Pulled element away from oven and pulled two wire connectors off. Simply reverse process to install new one. Wasn't the problem.
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burner wouldnt heat
11 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Doug from Ashton, IA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
removed element , cut wires, conected wires,replaced element
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Oven wouldn’t get up to temperature
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Al from THORNTOWN, IN
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
I removed the sensor from inside the oven with a 1/4” nut driver, pulled the sensor out slowly and then took the connection apart and found out that the connector was different, I cut the connector off of the oven side and then cut the connector off of the new sensor and wired it together. I am still trying to find the ceramic nuts. My ov
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en is working for now. Very easy fix, just wish there were ceramic wire nuts with the new sensor
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Oven light bulb went dark; it needed replacing
10 of 17 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lise from CEDAR GROVE, NJ
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!
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Temperature in the oven was not consistent
6 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cheryl from PRAIRIEVILLE, LA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
1. Turn off power to the electric oven
2. Removed the two screws in the top side of the oven that hold it into the cabinet.
3. Made a support to set the oven on once you remove it from the wall. Or set it on the floor. You will need help this is not a one person job.
4. Used a Philips head screw drive removed the back of ... Read more the oven panel. I did not have to remove the whole thing just took out half the screws and the electrical plug for the temperature sensor is right on the edge.
5. Unplugged sensor
6. Took out the two screw on the inside of the oven that holds the thermal sensor in place. Pulled it out the front.
7. Side the new thermal sensor in place replace the screws.
8. Pull the plug out and plug it back in. Check and push the insulation back in place where the thermal sensor.
9. Replace the back and replace the screws.
10. Slide oven back into the wall.
11. Replace the two screws that hold the oven in place in the frame.
12. Turn power back on
Check the temperature
2. Removed the two screws in the top side of the oven that hold it into the cabinet.
3. Made a support to set the oven on once you remove it from the wall. Or set it on the floor. You will need help this is not a one person job.
4. Used a Philips head screw drive removed the back of ... Read more the oven panel. I did not have to remove the whole thing just took out half the screws and the electrical plug for the temperature sensor is right on the edge.
5. Unplugged sensor
6. Took out the two screw on the inside of the oven that holds the thermal sensor in place. Pulled it out the front.
7. Side the new thermal sensor in place replace the screws.
8. Pull the plug out and plug it back in. Check and push the insulation back in place where the thermal sensor.
9. Replace the back and replace the screws.
10. Slide oven back into the wall.
11. Replace the two screws that hold the oven in place in the frame.
12. Turn power back on
Check the temperature
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broken lens over oven light
11 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Leslie from Warsaw, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....
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Error Code F1
6 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jon from Little Silver, NJ
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I usually try the cheapest part to replace when I come to a fork In the road but I wasn't home at the time and my other half called in the "expert". He said it was the clock timer and it would be $450 to replace it. She sent him away and I bought one online for $200 and put it in only to find out that it didn't solve the problem. Did s
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ome reading and found out that it could be the sensor. Put an ohm meter on it and found that to be the problem. Left the new clock timer in it anyway so now we're good for another 100,000 cookies or 1000 pizzas, which ever comes first
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Oven would overheat and not control properly
5 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mason from WESTVILLE, OK
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Simply took oven out of wall, removed back plate, unplugged old sensor, went in the front and unscrewed old sensor, put in new sensor, went in back and plugged in new sensor, put on back plate, push oven in wall. Turn on power
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Broken burner switch. Would not shut off.
6 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Douglas from PONCE INLET, FL
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Turn off breaker to the oven. Removed four knows by pulling them up and out. Using either a large flat blade screwdriver or adjustable wrench (depending upon stove top model) remove threaded style holders at each burner switch control to remove the glass clock control top panel. Remove glass panel and note ldgasket position. Place glass p
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anel on top of stove top on a cloth towel to prevent scratches. Remove 8 screws and remove/lift up burner control assembly. Invert and place on its side to gain access to broken contol switch. Took a picture of wiring and close up off switch to help remember where each wire plugs into switch. Remove 2 Phillips screws from the old switch and remove from panel. Using a flat blade screwdriver gently remove one wire at a time and using knob to orientate the off position of the new switch. Remove each wire one at a time and install on the new switch. Compare numbers on both the old and new switch to assist where each wire goes. The numbers are beside each terminal and using a flashlight and magnifying glass will help making the job easier. DO NOT mix the wires up. Use the 2 longer screws and threaded bracket supplied fasten the new switch to the glass panel. Reinstall the glass panel using the screws removed and thread on clips at each switch and tighten using a large flat blade screwdriver. Be sure to route the wiring to not pinch the wires and install the gasket along the front edge which fills the gap along the burner top and side for a tight seal keeping water and food particles out. The infinite control switch has letters such as H1, H2 etc as the switch fits several models with different wiring diagrams and colours so it's impt to note this when transferring the old wires to the new switch. Also the gasket along the top glass edge ensure to note exactly how it is placed to reinstall to be exact when you reassemble. Replace the 4 control knobs by pushing them on after aligning to fit as they were removed. New switch should be positioned the same as the others with off at the top and a notable click. Be sure to note this when transferring wires from the old to new switch. Turn breaker on. Note: If you have minimal skills this should be left to someone who is an electrician or has repair experience in this field.
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