7131 - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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oven racks very old and writing on knobs worn ff
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Patricia from SAN JOSE, CA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Very was ti replace racks and knobs. Very fast mail service
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light didn't come on when the door was opened
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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William L from SUMAS, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I took a very thin bladed screwdriver and took the old part out -carefully.
The new part fit in quite easily.
The new part fit in quite easily.
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Switch stops working
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from PENNSVILLE, NJ
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Replace with new switch. this is the third switch i have replaced in 10 years. the only part, besides a light bulb, that has gone bad. obviously this is a problem with this model for Kenmore, or just poor switch design.
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Decor was broken
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Maryann from Omaha, NE
- A Bit Difficult
- Less than 15 mins
Removed the tray and snapped the new piece into place, reinstall tray and done
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The gasket was torn and leaking cold air.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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CONNIE from YORK, PA
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Pulled the old gasket out.l. Started at the top left corner of the gasket and pushed the Corning in tight and push the gasket in to the other corner down the right side th the corner, across to the left bottom corner and up the right side to the start of the beginning. Very easy installation.
Delivery was fast. Satisfied wit ... Read more h part select.com. Spoke to a representative in customer service and she checked to make sure I was ordering the correct part. Very satisfied with your service.
Delivery was fast. Satisfied wit ... Read more h part select.com. Spoke to a representative in customer service and she checked to make sure I was ordering the correct part. Very satisfied with your service.
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A section of the gasket came off the door. It was causing heat to escape.
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Carol from Kansas City, MO
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
Found the Model information under the bottom drawer. Googled GE Range and rubber, found this vendor. Amazing, the replacement gasket was exactly as the original. Took the old gasket off with needle nose pliers, there were small metal clamps that had to be pinched together. Once the old gasket was off, the new one practically installed
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itself. Woman Power!
Baking is MUCH better now!
Baking is MUCH better now!
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Broken gasket
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jeff from SEATTLE, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
Popped off old gasket and some retaining clips stuck but were easily removable. New gasket pops right in, super easy. Fits like new.
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everything worked on the stove except for the oven
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Donald from Elkhart, IN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Since I'm not very mechanical I had my service manager from work come to my house and fiqure out the problem. By using an electrical meter he found that there was no continuity in the igniter. So being the mechanical guy I am I watched him take out 2 screws that secured the the piece of metal that covers the bottom part of the stove. He p
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ulled that part out and from there it was 2 screws to release it from the back of the stove and 2 more to disconnect the igniter from the burner tube. We ordered the part and it arrived in 3 days. I opened the box and to my dismay it was broke. I called to tell them that it was broke and they ordered me a new one right then. I had that part the next day very grateful for that. I was able then to put it back together myself and it worked. Wife is extremely happy with me.
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Rubber around the oven door cracked and fell down.
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Pearl from MIDLAND, OH
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Ordered the part and put it on. My husband hasn't relized that i took care of it yet. One day he might remember to ask if we ever got the part. Very quick delivery.
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Oven igniter didn't work.
3 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jacklyn from HOWARD CITY, MI
- Very Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
The bolts were below the base of the oven, and very difficult to remove and replace. The directions were not applicable to our unit. The good news was the igniter was correct, even though we had to adapt the bracket.
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Oven did not heat
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Middlebury, IN
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I fo
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und part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.
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Broiler would not ignite.
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Victor from Hathaway Pines, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged.
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) ... Read more 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) ... Read more 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?
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Light switch for refrigerator not functioning
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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shirley from ONALASKA, WI
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Followed instructions online
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Igniter would not glow and light oven.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from FALL CITY, WA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Straight forward as per instructions. Removed old igniter, replaced and tested new one and it worked. However, the gas oven would not turn of. Valve may be defective. Knob control is not stripped and turned to full stop. Troubleshooting continues. Part(s) and instructions worked perfectly.
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Light quit coming on when door opened.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Calvin from Northome, MN
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unplug from wall receptacle. Pry switch out with screwdriver while pushing on inner tab. Then disconnect electrical plug.
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