7001 - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Our Clothes Would Get Caught In Between The Drum & The Front Cover, Making Marks On The Clothes.
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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EDWARD from EDISON, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
I unpluged the dryer, raised the top cover up, removed 2 two screws & pulled front cover out. Removed the old seal, cleaned the area & installed the new seal. Reinstalled as new. Very, very easy.
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Dryer leaving brown spots on clothes
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Smyrna, TN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
First I raised the top of dryer, then removed 2 screws holding the front of dryer to the sides. removed old drum glide using a putty knife and glued new glide in place with glue provided. replaced front and top. The whole job took about 20 minuets and saved me the cost of new dryer
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Extremely noisy, grinding, old electric dryer.
2 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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DOUGLAS from EAST LANSING, MI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Pliers
Removed small panel at rear of dryer which allowed access to the Idler Pulley asembly. Easily removed, and replaced with new idler assembly. Fed belt onto new pulley and attached tension spring. Actually, this replacement idler pulley assembly is much better than the original. It has a shoulder to allow the belt to "track" better over
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drum and around motor pulley. Dryer is now extremely quiet, like a new machine. Hope to get another 29 (yes 29) years out of it. Extremely pleased. Doug East Lansing, Michigan
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Drum was not revolving
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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khalid from HILLSBOROUGH, NJ
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers
Open the back plate. Broken pulley was already out of place. Put the spring on the pulley and placed it. It took me less than 10 min
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Squeaking
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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David from PORT CLINTON, OH
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Watched Video Provided. Very Simple Repair. Asked my lovely wife to hold drum in place while replacing drive belt. She gladly complied and is back doing what she seems to love most. And no, I'm not kidding. Our washer and dryer seem to run 24/7/365. I've completed various repairs on both appliances over the last couple of years and saved
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100's of dollars thanks to this site .
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Just popped the part I ordered right in and it's was closing in no time !
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Debra from BROOKLYN, NY
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
Just opened package and popped the part right in!
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The clothes was getting stuck on the tumbler
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Juan from Dallas, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
First I removed the 2 screws on the back. These 2 screws hold the top cover. I also used a flat screw driver to press the 2 locks that hold the top cover, they are located in front and under the top cover . Then I removed the 2 screws that hold the front cover. After removing the front cover I replaced the drum glider and the seal-basket
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lower. Now my dryer is working perfectly...
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Noisy
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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April from CARYVILLE, TN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
Took it apart and installed the parts. Then I threw the dryer in the trash and bought a new one.
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dryer was squealing loadly
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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MIKE from MASSAPEQUA PARK, NY
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
took off face of dryer, removed drum 4 screws removed two srews holding bearing and shaft ,replaced shaft bearing and shaft . Just for preventive maintenance i replaced idleling arm and dryer belt. I lined everything up replaced drum used shop vac to clean lint and dust from all parts replaced face of dryer and boom i got a btand new drye
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r
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dryer was leaving brown marks on clothes
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Medina, NY
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
there are several srcews to remove. there are some u dont have to take out but it looks like u do.ease of the front panel and remove the old drum glide,very hard to get of all the felt.check the the bottom guide before u order parts if possible(i could've replaced mine,but didnt have time to check it first).when glue back in place follow
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directions exact and clamp.allow glue to dry as long as u can. mine set overnight it was nice and dry(if u dont you'll be doing it all over again)replace everything as you took them off.all works great perfect fit!!
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Clothes caught between drum and felt, leaving stains
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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JOHN from St Peters, MO
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers
First, I popped the two clips that hold on the top. Then, I removed two screws and unplugged a few wire connectors to remove the front panel. I scraped off the felt, which was rubbing the drum since the white plastic glides had worn completely through. I applied the high-temp adhesive liberally, laid on the new felt, and applied some s
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pring clamps to hold it in place. I removed the small back panel to replace the belt, which was really easy with the dryer apart. The 7-year-old original belt was a little cracked.
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Had a squelch/squeak coming from the rear of the unit
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Stephen from HICKSVILLE, OH
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
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Screw drivers, Socket set
I looked up a YouTube video on my specific model. Found one that said “basic disassembly”. I watched that and had it apart and back together in no time. Very easy to take apart and put new parts back in it. Re-assembled and since the repair no squeaking.
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Burn marks on clothes
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Carlis from Lexa, AR
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Opened the top of the dryer (no tools needed).
used socket set and removed the two screws (one on each side). unpluged wires from front panel, labled each (good practice).
Pulled open the front panel.
cleaned old felt off all around the front panel. Wiped down everything. while I had it opened, I vaccumed out the dryer u ... Read more nderneath.
used glue provided in felt kit and glued new felt where old was.
let dry, put front panel back on ensuring that the felt was between drum and front panel.
put screws back in front panel. closed top.
Let me say that this is the third time I've done this to this dryer as it is about 18 years old.
Until the heating coils go out, this is the cheapest fix there is. :-)
used socket set and removed the two screws (one on each side). unpluged wires from front panel, labled each (good practice).
Pulled open the front panel.
cleaned old felt off all around the front panel. Wiped down everything. while I had it opened, I vaccumed out the dryer u ... Read more nderneath.
used glue provided in felt kit and glued new felt where old was.
let dry, put front panel back on ensuring that the felt was between drum and front panel.
put screws back in front panel. closed top.
Let me say that this is the third time I've done this to this dryer as it is about 18 years old.
Until the heating coils go out, this is the cheapest fix there is. :-)
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Loud squealing
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Avis, PA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.
The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I cou ... Read more ld see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.
Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.
Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)
The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I cou ... Read more ld see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.
Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.
Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)
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Drum making noise when running ( rear bearing )
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
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Ralph from Wisconsin Rapids, WI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Took a putty knife and released top clips. Tipped top back , and took out 4 screws holding front cover in place. Lifted out drum, replaced bearing plate. Removed 2 screws and replaced back panel bearing. Placed drum back in place, installed front panel, snapped top back in place and job was done. Very easy. Took about one hour.
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