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66578009800 Kenmore Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Upper oven bake igniter went bad
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from KNOXVILLE, TN
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
You Tube!!! Didn’t find my exact oven, but watching a couple of videos was extremely helpful. Replacing the igniter was basically simple, but since it was a first for me, I took my time. Probably saved $200. The part was just over $100.
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Oven would not maintain temperature
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
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KATHY from PLEASANT GAP, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
So simple! I really had no idea what the problem was. I found the PartsSelect site, read the comments from fellow Maytag double oven owners, diagnosed the problem as the sensor and ordered the part. It arrived in only two days! We removed the back of the stove, pulled the old sensor through, plugged the new one in and YAY the oven is l
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ike new. I have to admit most of the repair time involved sweeping up the dog hair that had accumulated under the stove.
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Just unscred the 2 screw on the Thermometer
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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WILLIAM J from JERSEY CITY, NJ
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Unplugged the stove and unscrew the 2 screws on the thermometer inside the stove and unplugged the white plastic in the back of the stove and I had to put the new extra piece that came with the sensor kit as it was needed because the socket were different.
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Broken levelling leg
5 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Linda from Oneida, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Took the old levelling leg out and screw the new one in.
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oven would not come to set heat
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ralph from Portsmouth, NH
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
slide out stove remove rear cover (6 screws) to access sensor plug . remove two screws from inside oven area and remove part,replace in reverse order.
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Door gasket was hard and brittle from baked-on grease - heat leaking around door
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Harlen from Spring Creek, NV
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in
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each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.
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Whirlpool gas stove burner igniter had broken.
5 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jeff from DEER PARK, WI
- Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Our existing gas stove burner igniter had broken on one of the four burners. I therefore obtained a replacement igniter and mounting screw form PartSelect.com which were indeed perfect replacement parts. However, I could not remove the burner plates from the top of the stove since they were basically welded into position by years of heat.
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I therefore followed instructions as submitted by a previous customer (thank you Michael of Bloomington, Il), snapped open the stove lid retainer clips, and then lifted the stove surface about 4 inches. Through that opening I was able to reach the underside of the involved burner. Unfortunately, I could not unscrew the existing broken igniter mounting screw and therefore had to break off the already broken igniter and grind down the remaining mounting screw using a drill grinder since the screw was basically welded into place. Once I did that, I was then able to install the new igniter using a separate unused screw hole already in place right beside the old previous mounting screw. With that done, the new igniter works perfectly and the burner works just like new. It was however a lengthy process over two hours long because of the glitches described above. Nevertheless I'm very pleased that the parts were perfect and the repair is complete.
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Needed to replace the oven door gasket/seal
4 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Katy, TX
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old
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gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.
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Oven was taking a long time to reach temperature
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Allison from VANCOUVER, WA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed door, oven racks, and cover at the bottom. Very easy to get to the actual ignitor. The more challenging part is getting to the back of the oven where the igniter plugs in. Once we got the oven pulled out enough to access the bottom of the back panel, we removed the back panel....just a couple screws and it slides up. Unclipping an
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d removing the old igniter was easy. It's a bit of a challenge to feed the new igniter's wires under the insulation and up over a small ledge and out a small hole that's smaller than a quarter. Small hands help. You can avoid the whole part of attaching it in the back of you clip the wires of your old igniter and new one. Then use ceramic wire nuts to connect the new igniter the the old one's wires. We decided not to do that since it was already done once that way and figured it would be good to have fresh wires clipped in at the back. Overall, fairly easy repair especially if you decide to connect the igniter with ceramic wire nuts.
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broken oven door inner glass pane.
4 of 6 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Adam from modesto, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove the door, remove screws from all sides
Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.
Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.
Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.
Remove the remaining screws ... Read more from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.
Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)
reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.
Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.
Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.
Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.
Remove the remaining screws ... Read more from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.
Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)
reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.
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Bottom oven not heating
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cheryl from WEST YARMOUTH, MA
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
Easy instal most of time was taking off and replacing back panel Found watching how to videos helpful
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Upper oven won't light
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ronald from SPRINGFIELD, PA
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver
Just removed the shield (2 wing nuts) than the burner (1 Screw). THe back needs to be removed to unplug the igniter. I than reversed the process until I got to the plug and found that I had 2 male ends. I than had to remove everything and go back to square one until I find the part with the correct end (which should be Female) I'd check t
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his before getting too deep into the repair.
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Upper oven igniter did not work.
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Roger from SULLIVAN, IN
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver
Turned off the gas line & unplugged the oven. Pulled oven away from the wall to access the back of the oven. Removed the back panel (screws) on the oven & the few inner oven parts covering the broken igniter. Sprayed WD 40 on the threads of screws holding the old igniter in place. Removed old igniter screws with a nutdriver & unplugge
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d it from the back of the oven. Installed the PartSelect replacement igniter & plugged it into the wiring receptacle. Reassembled the parts covering the new igniter & screwed the back panel back onto the oven. Plugged oven in, turned the gas back on & pushed the oven back into place. Tested the new igniter. Woohoo, oven works again & wife if happy!
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Lower oven would not ignite, upper oven heat was inconsistent
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from ORTONVILLE, MI
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
To replace the igniter, I removed the oven door, all racks, the cover for the burner element and the shield over the burner element. I also removed the back panel to access the wiring. Removal of these elements was easy and took only a couple of minutes. When I tried to remove the old igniter from the bracket supporting it, one of the
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screws was stripped. Unfortunately I had to drill this screw out and replace it. If I didn't have to do this, both jobs would have taken about 20 minutes combined. After removing the igniter from the bracket, I replaced it, ran the electrical to the back where the wiring harness was and reassembled the components.
As for the upper oven temperature sensor, it took 5 minutes. I removed the two screws holding the sensor in place and pulled it out which exposed the electrical connection. I simply unplugged it, and screwed the new one in its place. I then connected the wiring harness.
As for the upper oven temperature sensor, it took 5 minutes. I removed the two screws holding the sensor in place and pulled it out which exposed the electrical connection. I simply unplugged it, and screwed the new one in its place. I then connected the wiring harness.
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Crazy codes and not heating the oven properly at desired temp settings
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Stan from CHICAGO RIDGE, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
1. Turn power off and loosen and remove screws. Pull out sensor from mounting hole and expose wire connector. Remove old sensor. Select appropriate wire adaptor and reconnect the sensor. Carefully push connector through hole and secure with screws removed previously. Turn power back on and cycle oven to make sure oven operates properly. I
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f you have an oven thermometer it can be used to compare set point of oven to thermometer to make sure readings are the same. All done! Happy wife can now bake cookies again and now I can go back to man cave for other projects!
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