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6654579350 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 6654579350
46 - 60 of 343

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Oven lamp socket had broken center electric tab - failed.
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stan from FLAT ROCK, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilit ate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.
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Replaced gasket and broken glass in the oven door
5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sharon from Picayune, MS
  • Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First I removed the bottom oven drawer from the stove. Then I removed all the screws from the outer oven door. Then I removed the screws from the inter door panel and needed assistance to remove the first glass panel and frame. Then I removed the second panel of glass and frame. Then I removed the third panel of glass that was broken. The gasket was the last part to be removed. Getting the new gasket to stay put while putting the new glass panel next to it was the hard part. I needed assistance to place the glass against the gasket and then place the frame back on this panel. Once this mission was accomplished. It was a matter of getting the next glass panel put back in the frame. and replacing the inter door panel and putting the screws back in. Then I put the third glass panel and screws back in. Once this was accomplished , I put the outer door back and put the screens back in the outer door.
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The heating elments were getting old kicking breaker
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Pamela from Portland, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
took out the old heating elments and cleaned the bottom & top of oven with out the elments in, which made it alot easier then put new ones in. They were very easy to do, just make sure you watch how you took old ones out and don't loose the screws cause you use them to put new ones in.
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Broken broiler top element
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Julie from Corunna, MI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
SUPER EASY! The part arrived very quickly. I turned off the circuit breaker, unscrewed the few nuts, pulled out the element and reversed the process. 'works beautifully! Thanks so much.
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FAULT CODE F-3
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rustin from LARAMIE, WY
  • Very Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
REMOVE BACK COVER. UN PLUG, REMOVE TWO SCREWS IN SIDE OVEN, PULL OUT , REPLACE, REATTACH, FIXED CODE F-3
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unit burned out
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Mildred from VALE, SD
  • Very Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
grandson removed the two screws holding in the burned out unit and removed the two wires, installed them into the new unit and put the prongs into place. very easy and certainly very economic. delivery was quick and postage was reasonable. Thank you.
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Broiler unit would not heat
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Atlanta, GA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The broiler unit had disintegrated at both connections. I removed the two screws in the top of the oven holder the unit, pulled out the unit, measured and ordered a replacement.

To replace the element, I pulled out the stove, removed the rear panel, located the connections for the broiler unit, remove parts of the old unit. I then attached the new unit to the top of the oven with the two screws, went around back and pushed in the two connections, replaced the back cover and replace the stove. It took about 30 minutes because I cleaned everything and sprayed bug spay (another plus for doing the repair myself).
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Old infinity switch on electric rangetop did not work correctly
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Decker from GREAT NECK, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Lifted range top, disconnected and labled wires from old switch, removed old switch, replaced wires on new switch, installed new switch.
NOTE: Local appliance store informed me that the electric cooktop was too old and that a replacement switch was not available and wanted to sell me a new cooktop for $795!
I found the switch on PartSelect and repaired the cooktop. Total cost... UNDER THIRTY DOLLARS!!
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faulty switch
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James E from RIDGECREST, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
I found the received switch (PS12070192) a poor replacement for the original, or even the earlier replaced part (PS11744446, in 2016) I was going to replace since the press/return feature seemed slow to return.

The male spade lugs on the received switch are so positioned that engagement is only possible if the lug is bent out at a large angle. The lug set-back from the body edge, and the raised ribs on the sides still prevent full engagement of the connections.

I did install the new switch but found that was the only switch that didn’t give a signal light when turned on.

I have reinstalled the earlier unit.

Is part# PS 11744446 no longer available?



James E Weimholt. [email protected]
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Lower oven element not working.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Doug from Puyallup, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
1. Turn off oven.
2. Switch off circuit braker to oven.
3. Remove two screws holding element.
4. Pull element out to expose connectors.
5. Disconnect connectors and remove element.
6. Reverse procedure for installation.
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Replacing the bulb in the freezer side
5 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Yafa (and David) from Bothell, WA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
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Oven didn't get over 300 deg. F.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barry from WOODSTOCK, GA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed old element, replaced new element. Unfortunately, this didn't fix the problem. It was the temperature sensor. But now I have a new bake element, though!
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Clearly, the bulb was the problem. The gasket is an invitation to more trouble.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from THE VILLAGES, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Simple. But beware changing just the bulb when the gasket is not secure.
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Bake Element Failed
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Johnson from Norwood, CO
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I had previously partially removed the element and tested with multi-meter to determine that it was not working (open circuit). Repair procedure follows:

Turned off Power
Removed 2 retaining screws
Pulled element out part way
Removed 2 spade connectors supplying power
Replaced element w/new element
Reve rsed procedure
Tested Oven; worked fine.
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Bake Element went bad, will not work.
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kent from Spooner, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
As soon the Bake Element has arive, I install it no more than 5 min... All I nedd was a Screw driver. It was so easy, Thank You PartSelet!
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All Instructions for the 6654579350
46 - 60 of 343