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6654558995 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 6654558995
1 - 15 of 329

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lower back element stopped working
470 of 561 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bradley from Lexington, OK
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I got the model number and ordered a replacement element from partselect, was shipped quickly and I installed it in about 30 minutes, it now works great
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Oven stopped heating.....
243 of 401 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Richard from Pattonsburg, MO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the oven racks....

Removed the two screws holding element in place...

Disconnected spade lug connectors from old heating element.

Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.

Reinstalled screws.....replaced oven racks....mission acomplished!
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The bake element stopped working.
216 of 364 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harry from Charlotte, NC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
First I cut off the power to the stove and double-checked to make sure no current was flowing to the unit. There were two screws attaching the bake element plate to the oven. I unscrewed the two screws and carefully pulled the bake element away from the oven exposing the contact wires. I carefully loosened the wire contacts from the bake element, slid the bake element off the contacts and then slid the new bake element onto the wire contacts. I gently clamped the contacts onto the bake element, pushed the wires back into the back of the oven and screwed back the bake element plate onto the interior of the oven. I turned on the power to test my work and I was done.
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Uneven heating, red spot on element
101 of 165 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Tim from Tigard, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First, I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires This was challenging; the element uses blade connectors that are difficult to grab, and I didn't want to damage the connectors with pliers. Strenuous wiggling eventually worked. After that, I just reconnected the blade connectors to the new element, pushed the wires back in, and tightened the two screws.

It was fortunate that I saw a red spot on the element. When I removed it, I noticed a hole had been eaten part way through the old element. I was probably weeks away from a fire.
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Bake Element Burned Out
45 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Robert from Baton Rouge, LA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replacement was relatively easy. Oven door was pulled off hinges after removing 2 mounting screws nearest the hinges. After shutting off power at the breaker, screws (2 each) holding elements were removed. Elements were pulled into oven ~ 4 inches exposing wiring and clips. The clips pulled free with just a little wiggling by hand and were easily pushed back on by hand. Then reverse to finish.
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Socket Light had a bad thread
44 of 65 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edmund from Emporium, PA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cove r
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Broken oven door inner glass
29 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Michael from Commerce Township, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first removed the two screws (located on the inner side of the door about halfway from the top) which hold the hinges to the door. With the screws removed, I was able to remove the entire door by grasping the door on each side and puling up and sliding the door away from the hinges.

The rest involves deconstructing the door by removing the screws and layers of metal liner layers and frames until you reach the inner glass.

You're likely to get anxious about remembering where all the screws go when reassembling, but if you lay out the screws in the same orientation they were in prior to disassembly, you should be fine.
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Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb
21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lewis from Chapin, SC
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.
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Burnt out broiler element
19 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Starla from Vashon, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Turned off power to range because I was scared. Unscrewed broiler element, pulled part forward and pulled off wires that were attached to the back, attached wires to new element, pushed it back in place, screwed it back on to oven. Cooked my bruchette!
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Oven light not working
18 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carol from Allison Park, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I re moved the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!
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Cracked oven door window
13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • michael from Chandler, AZ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I removed the oven door from the unit by removing the screws that are located approximately 6 inches from the bottom of the door. After the screws have been removed be aware and take caution when you pull the door up and away from the unit. The hinges are spring loaded and can casue injury. Once the door has been removed from the unit place it front side down on a soft rug or cloth to avoid any scatching. Remove the two philips head screws from the top of the door and the two philips head screws from the bottom of the door. carefully separate the interior steel panel from the exterior panel. Once the panels are separated you will see the first pane of glass. Remove the four nutscrews that hold it in place. Behind this pane of glass you will find the xterior pane of glass. remove it and install the new piece. Be sure to clean the glass before you install it. Replace the parts in reverse order and soon you will be cooking again.
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Inner most glass in door oven broken and falling out.
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dorothy from Charlotte, NC
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I read several posts of this glass door replacement before ordering and was a little hesitant, but after looking at my stove door broken for a number of years I decided to make a move. I searched the site found item # PS337162 and ordered it. The posts didn't sound too complicated. The glass arrived in two days, the repair went amazingly fast 20 min max. The following worked well for us:

1) Removed screws from around door bottom, top and sides. DID NOT REMOVE SCREWS MIDWAY UP ON INSIDE OF THE DOOR, HOLDS THE SPRING LATCHES.

2) Removing the door is not necessary once the screws are out, the outside panel comes loose from the interior. Propped the exterior part of the door up to meet the top of the drawer on the bottom of the stove, the natural position of the door as if it were opened during normal cooking.

3) Once the exterior part is off, the interior is exposed, removed the screws which held # 4 glass along with brace in place (4 screws hexagon screws) before being able to remove the full size interior panel which holds the # 7 glass in place.

4) After removing the #4 glass, etc. the inner most part is exposed, the interior full size panel needs to be removed, took 4 screws (hexagon) loose and the panel pulled a loose freely.

5) When removing this panel be careful, the #7 glass drops freely once the panel is pulled back, there is also exposed insulation. Remove the exterior #7 glass and then pull the aluminum 1" spacer out to reach the inner most piece of #7 glass (this is the one I needed to replace) exposed inside oven. The cork seal appeared to be in good condition and did not need to be replaced.

6) Clean glass, and reassembled. Sounds like a lot but it is not, never removed the door from the hinges and replacement went very quickly. I wish I would have done this years ago.

I have had this stove since July 1994 and its been great, I have had no problems except the glass of which had nothing to do with the mfg.
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Fiber Gasket around Pyrex Light Lens was mis-shaped
12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Westminster, CO
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
All I had to do was unscrew the pyrex lens over the oven light and then remove the old gasket and replace it with the new one. Worked like a champ!
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Both heating elements would not work.
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lee from Austin, TX
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
After shutting off the power, I removed the door and oven racks. Then, by using a screwdriver, I removed each element one at a time and replaced with the new element. Each element pulled away from the back wall and was connected electrically by Sta-Kon connectors. All went well, and the unit was operational in about 30 minutes. I stil l have to remove the oven from the wall to replaced the two door springs.
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Oven light would not work--faulty socket
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Delores from Warren, MN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.
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All Instructions for the 6654558995
1 - 15 of 329