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6654428991 Kenmore Range - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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lower back element stopped working
470 of 561 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Bradley from Lexington, OK
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I got the model number and ordered a replacement element from partselect, was shipped quickly and I installed it in about 30 minutes, it now works great
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Oven stopped heating.....
243 of 401 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Richard from Pattonsburg, MO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Removed the oven racks....
Removed the two screws holding element in place...
Disconnected spade lug connectors from old heating element.
Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.
Reinstalled screws.....replaced oven racks....mission acomplished!
Removed the two screws holding element in place...
Disconnected spade lug connectors from old heating element.
Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.
Reinstalled screws.....replaced oven racks....mission acomplished!
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The bake element stopped working.
216 of 364 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Harry from Charlotte, NC
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
First I cut off the power to the stove and double-checked to make sure no current was flowing to the unit. There were two screws attaching the bake element plate to the oven. I unscrewed the two screws and carefully pulled the bake element away from the oven exposing the contact wires. I carefully loosened the wire contacts from the bake
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element, slid the bake element off the contacts and then slid the new bake element onto the wire contacts. I gently clamped the contacts onto the bake element, pushed the wires back into the back of the oven and screwed back the bake element plate onto the interior of the oven. I turned on the power to test my work and I was done.
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Uneven heating, red spot on element
101 of 165 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tim from Tigard, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First, I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires This was challenging; the element uses blade connectors that are difficult to grab, and I didn't want to damage the connectors with pliers. Strenuous wiggling eventually worked. After that, I
... Read more
just reconnected the blade connectors to the new element, pushed the wires back in, and tightened the two screws.
It was fortunate that I saw a red spot on the element. When I removed it, I noticed a hole had been eaten part way through the old element. I was probably weeks away from a fire.
It was fortunate that I saw a red spot on the element. When I removed it, I noticed a hole had been eaten part way through the old element. I was probably weeks away from a fire.
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Bake Element Burned Out
45 of 48 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Baton Rouge, LA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Replacement was relatively easy. Oven door was pulled off hinges after removing 2 mounting screws nearest the hinges. After shutting off power at the breaker, screws (2 each) holding elements were removed. Elements were pulled into oven ~ 4 inches exposing wiring and clips. The clips pulled free with just a little wiggling by hand and
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were easily pushed back on by hand. Then reverse to finish.
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Broken oven door inner glass
29 of 33 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Commerce Township, MI
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I first removed the two screws (located on the inner side of the door about halfway from the top) which hold the hinges to the door. With the screws removed, I was able to remove the entire door by grasping the door on each side and puling up and sliding the door away from the hinges.
The rest involves deconstructing the door ... Read more by removing the screws and layers of metal liner layers and frames until you reach the inner glass.
You're likely to get anxious about remembering where all the screws go when reassembling, but if you lay out the screws in the same orientation they were in prior to disassembly, you should be fine.
The rest involves deconstructing the door ... Read more by removing the screws and layers of metal liner layers and frames until you reach the inner glass.
You're likely to get anxious about remembering where all the screws go when reassembling, but if you lay out the screws in the same orientation they were in prior to disassembly, you should be fine.
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Burnt out broiler element
19 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Starla from Vashon, WA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Turned off power to range because I was scared. Unscrewed broiler element, pulled part forward and pulled off wires that were attached to the back, attached wires to new element, pushed it back in place, screwed it back on to oven. Cooked my bruchette!
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Cracked oven door window
13 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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michael from Chandler, AZ
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
First I removed the oven door from the unit by removing the screws that are located approximately 6 inches from the bottom of the door. After the screws have been removed be aware and take caution when you pull the door up and away from the unit. The hinges are spring loaded and can casue injury. Once the door has been removed from the
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unit place it front side down on a soft rug or cloth to avoid any scatching. Remove the two philips head screws from the top of the door and the two philips head screws from the bottom of the door. carefully separate the interior steel panel from the exterior panel. Once the panels are separated you will see the first pane of glass. Remove the four nutscrews that hold it in place. Behind this pane of glass you will find the xterior pane of glass. remove it and install the new piece. Be sure to clean the glass before you install it. Replace the parts in reverse order and soon you will be cooking again.
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Inner most glass in door oven broken and falling out.
13 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dorothy from Charlotte, NC
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I read several posts of this glass door replacement before ordering and was a little hesitant, but after looking at my stove door broken for a number of years I decided to make a move. I searched the site found item # PS337162 and ordered it. The posts didn't sound too complicated. The glass arrived in two days, the repair went amazingly
... Read more
fast 20 min max. The following worked well for us:
1) Removed screws from around door bottom, top and sides. DID NOT REMOVE SCREWS MIDWAY UP ON INSIDE OF THE DOOR, HOLDS THE SPRING LATCHES.
2) Removing the door is not necessary once the screws are out, the outside panel comes loose from the interior. Propped the exterior part of the door up to meet the top of the drawer on the bottom of the stove, the natural position of the door as if it were opened during normal cooking.
3) Once the exterior part is off, the interior is exposed, removed the screws which held # 4 glass along with brace in place (4 screws hexagon screws) before being able to remove the full size interior panel which holds the # 7 glass in place.
4) After removing the #4 glass, etc. the inner most part is exposed, the interior full size panel needs to be removed, took 4 screws (hexagon) loose and the panel pulled a loose freely.
5) When removing this panel be careful, the #7 glass drops freely once the panel is pulled back, there is also exposed insulation. Remove the exterior #7 glass and then pull the aluminum 1" spacer out to reach the inner most piece of #7 glass (this is the one I needed to replace) exposed inside oven. The cork seal appeared to be in good condition and did not need to be replaced.
6) Clean glass, and reassembled. Sounds like a lot but it is not, never removed the door from the hinges and replacement went very quickly. I wish I would have done this years ago.
I have had this stove since July 1994 and its been great, I have had no problems except the glass of which had nothing to do with the mfg.
1) Removed screws from around door bottom, top and sides. DID NOT REMOVE SCREWS MIDWAY UP ON INSIDE OF THE DOOR, HOLDS THE SPRING LATCHES.
2) Removing the door is not necessary once the screws are out, the outside panel comes loose from the interior. Propped the exterior part of the door up to meet the top of the drawer on the bottom of the stove, the natural position of the door as if it were opened during normal cooking.
3) Once the exterior part is off, the interior is exposed, removed the screws which held # 4 glass along with brace in place (4 screws hexagon screws) before being able to remove the full size interior panel which holds the # 7 glass in place.
4) After removing the #4 glass, etc. the inner most part is exposed, the interior full size panel needs to be removed, took 4 screws (hexagon) loose and the panel pulled a loose freely.
5) When removing this panel be careful, the #7 glass drops freely once the panel is pulled back, there is also exposed insulation. Remove the exterior #7 glass and then pull the aluminum 1" spacer out to reach the inner most piece of #7 glass (this is the one I needed to replace) exposed inside oven. The cork seal appeared to be in good condition and did not need to be replaced.
6) Clean glass, and reassembled. Sounds like a lot but it is not, never removed the door from the hinges and replacement went very quickly. I wish I would have done this years ago.
I have had this stove since July 1994 and its been great, I have had no problems except the glass of which had nothing to do with the mfg.
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both upper oven door springs broke. Door would not stay closed except with "self-cleaning latch in place"
11 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from GALT, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I HAVE NOT FOUND ANY GOOD DESCRIPTION OF HOW TO REPLACE DOOR SPRINGS ON A BUILT-IN DOUBEL OVEN ANYWHERE ON THE INTERNET. I HOPE THIS WILL BE OF HELP TO SOMEONE.
I correctly assumed it was the springs that broke. With the springs in hand I shut off the power at the breaker box. I removed both oven doors. The upper oven door ... Read more required the removal of one screw for each hinge. Then with the door slightly open, wiggle and pull upward and the door detached from the hinge. The lower oven door is removed by just wiggling and lifting with the door slightly open. I then removed 8 screws that fasten the oven to the cabinet. I removed 3 screws that hold the bottom vent cover in place and wiggling and pulling downward the vent cover detached. The bottom of the oven was 11 inches above the floor. I placed two sturdy objects about 10 inches tall in front of the oven and lifting, wiggling, and pulling the oven moved forward. I pulled it out about 2/3 of its depth.
The sheetmetal sides of the oven are indented and the spring attachments are easily accessible. ONE TROUBLE SPOT. The back end of the spring attaches to the cabinet but there is a small metal piece called an "anchor" that attaches to the front of the spring and then to the hinge. When the spring breaks the anchor goes flying. I was able to retrieve one of the anchors but the other one fell down between the insulation and the side of the cabinet and I was not able to retrieve it with out pulling the side loose. I was afraid I would run into other issues if I did that. So my oven is sitting in the kitchen while I wait 3 days for a replacement anchor.
The anchor is about $7 and the 2-3 day shipping is $10 so you might do well to just order one along with the spring.
I ordered a pair of lower door springs at the same time. About $10 each. Worth it to me not to repeat this process in the near future.
Once the oven is pulled out, the springs are very easy to install. I did all three I could do in about 10 minutes max.
MY BIGGEST PROBLEM was deciding how to get at the springs. All diagrams in the installation manual showed solid metal sides on the oven. They did not show that the springs we easily accessible outside the oven case. I was pleasantly surprised to see the indentations as I started to slide the oven out of the cabinet!
With the springs installed, I will just push the oven back into the cabinet, install the 8 screws, replace the lower vent cover and install the doors. Turn on the breaker and receive the applause of my wife for my marvelous ability!
I correctly assumed it was the springs that broke. With the springs in hand I shut off the power at the breaker box. I removed both oven doors. The upper oven door ... Read more required the removal of one screw for each hinge. Then with the door slightly open, wiggle and pull upward and the door detached from the hinge. The lower oven door is removed by just wiggling and lifting with the door slightly open. I then removed 8 screws that fasten the oven to the cabinet. I removed 3 screws that hold the bottom vent cover in place and wiggling and pulling downward the vent cover detached. The bottom of the oven was 11 inches above the floor. I placed two sturdy objects about 10 inches tall in front of the oven and lifting, wiggling, and pulling the oven moved forward. I pulled it out about 2/3 of its depth.
The sheetmetal sides of the oven are indented and the spring attachments are easily accessible. ONE TROUBLE SPOT. The back end of the spring attaches to the cabinet but there is a small metal piece called an "anchor" that attaches to the front of the spring and then to the hinge. When the spring breaks the anchor goes flying. I was able to retrieve one of the anchors but the other one fell down between the insulation and the side of the cabinet and I was not able to retrieve it with out pulling the side loose. I was afraid I would run into other issues if I did that. So my oven is sitting in the kitchen while I wait 3 days for a replacement anchor.
The anchor is about $7 and the 2-3 day shipping is $10 so you might do well to just order one along with the spring.
I ordered a pair of lower door springs at the same time. About $10 each. Worth it to me not to repeat this process in the near future.
Once the oven is pulled out, the springs are very easy to install. I did all three I could do in about 10 minutes max.
MY BIGGEST PROBLEM was deciding how to get at the springs. All diagrams in the installation manual showed solid metal sides on the oven. They did not show that the springs we easily accessible outside the oven case. I was pleasantly surprised to see the indentations as I started to slide the oven out of the cabinet!
With the springs installed, I will just push the oven back into the cabinet, install the 8 screws, replace the lower vent cover and install the doors. Turn on the breaker and receive the applause of my wife for my marvelous ability!
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Both heating elements would not work.
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Lee from Austin, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
After shutting off the power, I removed the door and oven racks. Then, by using a screwdriver, I removed each element one at a time and replaced with the new element. Each element pulled away from the back wall and was connected electrically by Sta-Kon connectors. All went well, and the unit was operational in about 30 minutes. I stil
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l have to remove the oven from the wall to replaced the two door springs.
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Original bake element had open circuited, fortunately the day after Thanksgiving and not on Thanksgiving
8 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
David from MCKEESPORT, PA
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Removed the two Philips head screws that attach the element to the back wall of the oven. Pulled off the two wire terminals from the spades on the back of the element. Pushed the two wire terminals onto the spades on the back of the new element. Noticed that one was not tight, so disconnected, squeezed down the wire terminal, and reco
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nnected. Inserted the two screws that attach the element to the back wall of the oven. Element works fine.
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Baking Element burned out.
9 of 11 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Rick from Pineville, MO
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Turn Off Breaker.
Removed oven racks....
Removed two screws holding element in place...
Disconnect spade lug connectors from old heating element.
Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.
Reinstall 2 screws holding element.....
Replace oven racks.
T ... Read more urn Breakers back On.
Done 10 Min. Install
Removed oven racks....
Removed two screws holding element in place...
Disconnect spade lug connectors from old heating element.
Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.
Reinstall 2 screws holding element.....
Replace oven racks.
T ... Read more urn Breakers back On.
Done 10 Min. Install
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Broken Oven Door
9 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Mark from Leawood, KS
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
This is an easy fix. Just before the holidays, it was imperative that this appliance be in top shape. Since the door 'hung' wrong, it was determined that the hinge pin broke. Remove the 2 phillips head screws on the door and open the door to the to a 15 degree opening. This position allows you to slip the door off the hinge levers. N
... Read more
ow that the door is off, replace the hinge pin and slip the retainer ring on with a screw driver blade to push it on the pin. Slide the door back on the levers and fasten the retainer screws. DONE!
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Purchased home but stove had no broiler pan.
16 of 33 people
found this instruction helpful.
-
Raymond from BLOOMINGTON, MN
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site
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