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66341 (1988) Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 66341
121 - 135 of 373

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Storage drawer hard to open and was hanging down on one side.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Nathan from ST Joseph, MN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the drawer, removed and replaced the guides on both sides in the front and replaced the drawer.
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One Of The Front Drawer Guides Broke
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • RICHARD from WABASH, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Removed the drawer. Inserted the new glide tab into a hole in the side. Inserted the drawer slides in the the glide. Closed drawer--done! Works fine. Probably only 5-10 minutes.
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Oven wouldn't heat , glow from bottom, and strong smell of gas
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Clayton from Gulf Breeze, FL
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
First unplugged the oven from the wall and then I removed the bottom floor of the oven by removing the two screws at the back. Then I removed the heat shield over the burner by remove the two screws at the front of the oven and removed the nut in the middle of the heat shield that was hold the shield to the burner. I removed the two sc rews on the flat oven igniter and cut the two wires on the igniter and pulled the two wires through the open in the bottom oven from the drawer opening. Mounted the new igniter and feed the two wire from the igniter through the open in the bottom of the oven, Stripped the two wires that I cut from the oven, twisted the new wires to the old, and put the wire nuts on. Last I put everything back together and baked dinner. Took ten about minutes and saved a thousand dollars because I was going to buy a new oven. Thanks, Partselect.
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Oven would not come on. If it did, it took a long time to heat up.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Frank from Greenbackville, VA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver
Removed the broiler compartment door by depressing the slide stops inward and pulling the door off. Turned off the breaker to the oven. Used a nut driver to remove the old ignitor ( 2 screws ). Cut the wires off the old ignitor close to the porclin. Measured the new ignitor wires to match up with the old ignitor wires and cut them. St ripped 3/8 " off ends of newely cut wires of the ignitor and used the supplied wire nuts to secure them together. Replaced the new ignitor with the 2 screws. Turned on the oven and a cooking I went.
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Rear Drawer Glide
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • errol from bronx, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Just use flat screwdriver to press on clip and just squeeze it in
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The front drawer glide broke off so one side of warmer drawer was sagging
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Lamar from Theodore, AL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
After researching on what exactly to call the part, which was a front drawer glide. I found this out by watching the video. It showed me exactly what I needed and what it looked like. I run to the oven to look at the other one, to make sure thats what I needed, and it looked like the part that I needed (mind you I am a female, and not a repair person), so this video helped me out alot. When the part arrived, I knew how to take the drawer out, and easily snapped the little plastic glide in to place, and slipped the drawer back on the gliders, and it worked perfect, so proud of myself, that I done it by myself, with no help from husband. I bragged and bragged on myself with a big pat on my own back, thanks Part Select, I know what to do when it happens again. Its my fault cause it broke, cause I overload the drawer with pots and pans LOL!!! Brenda Dixon
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Ignition not working
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ricardo from Stamford, CT
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1 - I unplugged the oven/ stove connection.
2 - Removed 2 screws and lifted it out the floor of the oven.
3 - Removed the nut holding down the flame guard and lifted it out.
4 - Removed 2 screes that held igniter in place.
5 - cut the wires for igniter.
6 - Stripped new wires with the nuts connector.
7 - Ins talled new igniter with 2 screws.
8 - Put it all back together step 3 & 2.
9 - Plugged in the oven/stove connection.
10 - Turn on the oven and works perfectly.
11 - My wife and daughter happy and ready to bake.
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The oven would not light and the house smelled like gas.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeffrey from Mission Viejo, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I removed the oven floor and subfloor. I detached the old ignighter leaving the wires still attached. I then attached the new ignighter and fed each of the two new wires down through the bottom of the oven floor following the same path of the old wires which were still attached. I attached the new wires one at a time to make sure I connec ted them to the right place. Then, I pulled out the old igniter. I then attached the oven floors and turned the oven on which now works. The tough part is pulling the oven out from the wall to disconnect the power and turn off the gas. I did not remove the oven door.
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the oven was slow to light and didn't reach the set temperature
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • James from Chicago, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I removed the bottom of the oven and flame guard for access to the ingniter. I then replaced the ingniter. The oven works like new now.
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Igniter lights up, but no flame appears, no gas
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Denise from Clinton Township, MI
  • Really Easy
  • More than 2 hours
I cut the wires from the old igniter near where it said to. I then connected the new wires to the old ones, put it back on, the way I remembered it being assembled, but still won't heat up. I tried to get an enlarged detail of where I was working on, but I couldn't enlarge it from your website. My friend, who knows about electricity, w orked on it for several hours last pm(He's an electrician), but could not figure it out with the scamatic that was on the range, because he was not there when I disassembled it,
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Oven And Broiler Wouldn't Light
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DENNIS from HERKIMER, NY
  • Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.
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perheat light stayed on, oven never came on.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • john from snowflake, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
followed the instructions that come with the part. very quick and easy.
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Gas valve would not turn on.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Todd from Matteson, IL
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
I exposed the ignitor through the inside of the oven and then removed the two screws that held it in place. I then cut the wires underneath the stove ans reconnected them to the new part with the wire nuts provided. It was a simple repair.
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Oven would not light
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from Valencia, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
1st took out switch from thermostat unit, located right on the other side of where the temperature knob is located (that controls cooking temp of the oven). Had to lift up range cover to get to the thermostat. Tested this switch with a meter and found it was OK. This made me suspect the igniter, so I ordered one.
To install I fi rst unplugged oven (to prevent getting shocked) then took off the drawer on the bottom compartment (push in on tabs on rails until they release). Then take out two screws holding igniter. Mark wires with tape so you know which one goes to the upper part of the igniter and which one goes to the lower part. Then cut wires as close to the body of the igniter as you can so that you have plenty of wire to work with. Then hold igniter in about the place it will be mounted and mark the wires on the new igniter where you want to cut them. Leave a little extra so you have wire at a length that is easier to work with. Scrape off 3/8 inch of insulation off the end of each wire and connect the wires with wire nuts. Re-mount igniter. Put drawer back in. Plug oven back in and try the oven. I hope it works. Mine did thanks to God. Take care.
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Oven would not heat up
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Randy from Crescent, IA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured m ore than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.
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All Instructions for the 66341
121 - 135 of 373