6458XTW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

first of all i have one advantage even though i am 70 yrs old i had a appliance shop for sears in the 60s and 70s and have not forgotten to much of the basics i am still in the security business and up on electronics. last time i had the company repair the oven , 70 dollars for the part 75 dollars for the svs call. (first igniter was ... Read more on full warranty) well this time i decided to look for trhe part myself, i just went on line typed in oven repair parts and eventually all these sites came up. yours was the most professional looking and i took a chance. guess what everything you promised you delivered. price quality USA made parts and delivered in three days . opened package went to work less than fifteen minutes back in business.
will sure use you again if the need arises thank you

I first removed the bottom of the oven and the flame guide to uncover the igniter assembly. Then I applied WD40 to the two Philip head screws and unscrewed them to release the old igniter. The two wire leads from the igniter went into the back of the oven and I could not reach the connection block. So I pulled the oven out far enough to g ... Read more et behind it and took off the panel covering the electrical wires in back. I had previously disconnected the electrical cord from the wall outlet. After I determined that I could not remove the connection block I returned to the igniter and cut the two existing wires close to the ceramic igniter assembly. I marked the top wire with a Sharpie pen so that I would not mix up the new leads when I install the new igniter. Although it was awkward to work inside the small oven space I was able to strip the insulation back about 1/2 inch and then connect the new igniter wires using the twist caps supplied with the kit. I pushed the wires back into the space and added the insulating material supplied. The igniter assembly was then installed with the original two screws and the other oven covers and flame guide reinstalled easily. After reconnecting the power outlet the oven was back in operation with ignition of gas flame within a minute or so. It was a good feeling and now we do not need to consider replacing the gas range.

Range is 20+ year old 'condo issue' and difficult to pull from wall since previous owner had tiled it in. Going in from the back was going to be a pain.
Removed the oven door by opening slightly and pulling up. Removed grilles. Removed bottom of oven by sliding 2 latches in the back forward and pulling it up. Removed 2 screws hol ... Read more ding igniter (long-style) to the rear of the burner. Cut power to the range and snipped the 2 igniter wires as close to the igniter as possible, leaving me only about 1 inch of wire to work with. Removed 2 screws holding old plate to rear of the back of the interior of the oven. Snipped off the connector on the new igniter. Carefully stripped about 3/8" of insulation off of all wires and used hemostat to hold wires together while applying the wire nuts. Used hemostat to work the wire nuts and excess wire back into the hole. Stuffed the hole with supplied insulation. Attached new back plate with original screws and attached igniter to burner with original screws. Reapplied power to range and did a test light. It worked, so I reassembled the rest. For me, the worst part was holding the wires together so the wire nuts would 'take', while working inside of the oven. But, an easy and successful job!

I ordered the part one afternoon. It arrived before noon the next day. Then I simply removed the old seal (with about 2 dozen spring clips). Inserted the new part by carefully inserting the new seal into its corresponding hole at each end and then worked my way around the seal while inserting each attached spring clip into its correspon ... Read more ding hole.

As I pulled the drawer looking for a pan stored in bottom drawer the drawer glide broke. The pictures of the parts were fantastic. Not being sure of which of two parts from the photos, I ordered two parts knowing that hopefully one would be the correct one and the other would not be the part I needed. Parts arrived and it was clear whic ... Read more h of the two parts would fit perfectly.

I screwed in the part, and that was it , and I was relieved that the problem was solved! I kind of feel lucky that your company is in business! The other part is fully accepted and plan to send it back in for a refund. And oh yes, I solved my appliance problem under $20.00 - unbelieveable these days!

Thank you again for beng there!

unscrewed old burner head ;disconnected 2 wires; repaced with new burner head and replaced wires. Unfortunately, before we really needed to replace the other burner heads, the cooktop itself developed a gas leak. We decided to replace the whole thing, and therefore would like to return the unboxed, unused 4 remaining burner heads.

1st removed the sealed burners
2nd removed stove top
3rd removed oven door
4th removed left and right side pannels to access door hinges
5th removed left and right hinges
6th installed new left and right hinges
then re-installed other components in reverse order.
The oven door now opens and closes proper ... Read more ly, the heat stays in the oven!!

Using the description on the first DIY, I did as told. All went well until the part about removing the panel to access the hinge. There isn't a "panel" on the side of this particular model of Magic Chef stove. You have to remove the entire side of the stove, and then, there's another panel inside of this one. That too has to come off. On ... Read more ce off, you're into the insulation surrounding the oven. Ain't pretty, I'll assure you. Then, the replacement hinge has holes in it for the mounting screws. The holes aren't threaded, and you have to replace the screws that come with the hinge with self-tapping screws. Either that, or thread the holes with a tap. Thank goodness my wife loves the stove, or it may have just gone out the door. This is not one of Magic Chefs better ideas. Either that, or they didn't plan on having to replace the hinge before the stove wore out.

removed racks, bottom plate. removed screws with a little bit of help from cooking spray. Unclipped old ignitor clipped in new ignitor, used old screws, and inserted insulation replaced racks, bottom shelf. Turn on oven and worked, been using it for about a week now. PS. ordered on monday morning arrived wednesday afternoon.

First I unpuged the Range. Then I removed all racks and bottom tray of oven.
The Ignitor is located at back of oven, paralelle to the gas bar. I removed the 2 screws holding the ignitor and unpluged the wires. Then I put on the new ignitor, perfect fit, replaced the 2 screws and pluged in the wires , then pluged in the range. I tur ... Read more ned the oven on and it lit in about 10 seconds.
Thank you PartSelect for having such a wide range of range & oven parts . no one should have to pay a service tech. to fix most problems, as long as we have a GREAT SITE LIKE THIS ONE.
p.s. You guy also had one of the lowest prices , my part arrived ahead of schedule .
THANKS A LOT !

Turn off the gas supply and unplug the power cord. Remove the screw on the back plate for the metal tab that covers the valve. Bend the tab up to expose the valve. Remove the gas line that feeds the broiler with an adjustable wrench. Remove the mounting screw for the valve. Loosen the valve inlet gas line fitting with an adjustable wr ... Read more ench. Lift the valve out. Reverse the steps to install the new valve.

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).

It was so easy, I pushed the panel towards the back and lifted the front up then lifted it right out. I am so glad that you had the part. I ordered it and when it got here, I just sliped it right in, perfect fit! Thank you so much! Cindy Brison

Removed oven door (easy it lifted right off) and remove oven bottom (also easy, no tools). removed two screws holding igniter and unplug old igniter from power. Re-attached new igniter and re-assembled oven.

Parts came very quickly from PartSelect. Good service.

Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull ... Read more the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.