630001 Maytag Microwave - Instructions

Simply removed the old heating element and plug the new element terminals into socket.

Removed 2 screws, cut the wires, pulled the part out that the element plugs into. Replaced the old part with the new one and put the screws back in to hold it, reconnected the wires and plugged in the element. Turned stove on and Valaaaa! It was fixed in 10 minutes! Thanks for the great repair parts!

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Drilled a pilot hole with a 1/16 th drill bit and tapped off screw head.

I cut the power to the circuit. Removed the burner and then unscrewed the old aluminum plate attached to the range top cover. Opened the topcover to access the wires. I cut the two wires being sure that I left enough length. I then slipped the two new wires with the brass contacts into the new black plastic holder until it locked. Reattached the new metal plate to the range cover, fed the wires through and snapped the new plastic holder into the aluminum plate. Secured wire ends with the ceramic wire nuts. Total time about 30 minutes.

Access is via RT. SIDE Panel as you face microwave. There are three screws on the bottom right edge to loosen. After that the side panel slips down and off. the fuse is located in the rear near where the power cord comes in. It is the white ceramic tube 1/4" in dia. and 1-1/2" long. Pull it out like any fuse and replace with new one. Reassemble and you are done!

removed the plug that had burned up on one of the top burners, replaced it with a new plug purchased from parts select., it was quite easy ,I unpluged stove and raise the top exposing wiring for the burners cut the old plug wiring and connected the wires for the new plug with connectors and shrink tubing supplied in the repair kit easy and quick repair

I used a phillips screwdriver to remove the control switch. I drew a diagram on a piece paper where the wire contacts connected I wrote the different # and wire colors down . I compared the 2 switches they were the same. So I connected the wires . I put the 2 screws on. The stem was higher than the other switchers. So I had to cut the stem shorter. It had groves so it was easy to use a hacksaw to cut a little then use a lock pliers to hold the stem and another to break it off then it fit perfect I put the knob on presto new switch. Just like new.

I followed the instructions provided.

Replaced drip pan. Notch did not want to match the burner notch. Was a close fit bit with a little pressure made it work.

No problem Took off old ones and replaced with new.

Someone did the repair for me.

I took out the coils manually by pulling them out with slight pressure. Then I lift the hood by first unscrewing the four screws. I have never done anything like this before just intuitive sense to locate the screws that needed to be loosened. Afterwards I remember placing something underneath like a piece of 2x4 wood block to act as support to hold the hood open so I can work on the coils. The parts I got are exactly the same as those I am replacing so I just copied the connection and voila my electric range is working like new. Well of course before I touched anything, I made sure I turned off the main switch and that nobody switches it back on without my knowledge. Thanks for providing the parts, I just saved myself from buying a $600 electric range.

I took the old wires and plug off and replaced it with the new block it works fine

Removed burner and then burner pan.Then replaced pan and reinstalled burner.