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620658101 Kenmore Miscellaneous - Overview

Diagrams for 620658101

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Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit – Part Number: 6-2095720
No Longer Available
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit
★★★★★
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(17)
Part #6-2095720
This kit comes with a hub assembly, agitator seal, and spanner nut. If your washer leaks once it is full (with or without clothes in it) or leaks during agitation, then you should replace the seal. This part will also fix symptoms such as loud noises or the washer not agitating. The seal may become damaged or deteriorate over time and will need to be replaced. The mounting stem goes between the two tubs and seals the water into the tubs. When the water leaks, it goes into the bearing, which will cause it to also go bad, which is why you will likely change these at the same time.
USE WCI 4181 – Part Number: 6510
$242.68
Special Order
USE WCI 4181
Part #6510
DISCONTINUED – Part Number: 37021
No Longer Available
DISCONTINUED
Part #37021
SCREW – Part Number: 75138
No Longer Available
SCREW
Part #75138
DOOR – Part Number: 49089
$590.82
Special Order
DOOR
Part #49089
COVERING – Part Number: 95570
$85.94
Special Order
COVERING
Part #95570
Drip Tray – Part Number: 44144
No Longer Available
Drip Tray
Part #44144
GUIDE,ARMATURE – Part Number: 24130
No Longer Available
GUIDE,ARMATURE
Part #24130

Common Symptoms of the 620658101

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water leaking from around center shaft below fixed tub
529 of 559 people found this instruction helpful.
  • douglas from bonita springs, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
My washer is 5 years old and water began to leak on the floor. I took off the front panel and filled the tub. Water did not leak immediately, but after the tub filled with about 3-4 inches of water, the water began to leak from a rubber washer between the fixed tub and the drive shaft. I looked online for exploded diagrams of Maytag wa shers, when I came across your site. By looking at your diagrams, I determined what parts I needed and ordered them. The parts arrived in 2 days, and I installed them. There were no leaks and it cost me under $70 (a repairman would have cost at least $250). The only thing I would recommend to those in similar situations, is to purchase a spanner wrench (your site does not sell, but others do). The stem seal and hub assembly is reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen) and is difficult to remove due to tight quarters in the tub.
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leaked water when agitating in wash cycle
52 of 56 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jonathan from Lavonia, GA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
First I removed the screws that held the side panels on at the bottom, then I removed the screws that held the front panel on and removed the panel. I removed the agitator, loosened the retaining nut with a hammer and a punch, removed the bolts holding the tub springs, removed the bolts for the top panel and flipped it out of the way. The n I removed the clamp for the inner tub and pulled it out, then I pulled the outer tub out. Then I removed the seal and scrubbed the rust off the seal mating area, then installed the new seal and re-assembled the washer. It works perfectly now and no longer leaks and it is over 20 years old. This is the first bit of problem we have had out of this machine, the lonely Maytag repairman commercials are true.
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Washer was leaking water onto the floor underneath
42 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eric from Bonnots Mill, MO
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Pryed the front cover off and set it aside. I pulled the top cover off by removing the 1/2" hex screws under the front cover and hinged it back. Removed the agitator set screw with a 1/4" hex nut driver and pulled out the agitator assembly. Had to remove the nut that holds the hub assembly in by using a hammer and punch. There is not m uch room in the tub so be careful you don't hit the sides. It goes off by turning it clockwise. Then the splash guard comes off and then the inner tub with the top gasket and ring can be lifted out of the washer. The tapered cork covered hub was exposed and it also had to be removed with a hammer and punch clockwise after removing the torx set screw on the side of the hub. The rubber seal was now able to be removed under the hub and on top of the bearing on the outer tub. I had to clean all the accumulated scale off seal and bearing surfaces before putting new parts in (rubber seal, hub assembly, and new locking nut). Everything went back easily. Should be good for another 5-10 years...
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