61D-3KX (1X) Maytag Range - Instructions
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oven would not light , smell of gas
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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jerry from staten island, NY
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
removed oven floor, removed two screws in element . pulled out element wires, secured them so they would not fall back into slot, snaped in new element . scewed it in place , replaced floor . thanks partselect.com
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Replacement of igniter
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Orange, CA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed two nuts and one screw to replace old igniter with new one. Replaced the nuts and screw. Turned on the oven, and it is working fine.
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oven took too long to light, then lit with a whump sound
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Steve from Sierra Madre, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I read all the reports on your site pertaining to oven igniters and decided to order one. I was amazed when it arrived the next day. I got a lot of tips reading others replys so I lifted off the oven door, took out the racks, removed the 2 screws holding the old igniter and tried to pull it out. There was hardly any slack in the wires, so
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I pulled the stove away from the wall, took off a breadpan size cover in back and found the wires were zip tied to a tube. I cut the tie and unplugged the wires, but the new plug didn't match so I cut the new plug off and rejoined the wires with butt to butt crimp connecters, which I prefer to wire nuts. I used the insulation and new cover from your kit as my old part had the long ceramic insulator and put it all back together. It works like new again and saved me a lot of money. I am very pleased with your product and service, thanks.
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igniter glowed, but oven would not light or stay lit
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Daniel from Grafton, WI
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
The igniter was located in the bottom of the stove or broiler section. It was hard to get at, but with a little trial and error I figured out how to take the plate between the oven and broiler. Now the igniter was easily accessable. 2 screws on the igniter bracket, then simply unplug the electrical. The igniter supplied had the identi
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cal electrical plug (plug and play). The new igniter works like a charm-oven ignites in about 15 seconds. Piece of cake!!!!!
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Igniter Would Glow But Stove Wouldn't Light
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ALAN from LUCK, WI
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver
I noticed that the ignitor would glow but the stove wouldn't light - I got the model number of the stove and googled the maytag model number. Came upon your website and realized that 94% of the time the problem was the amps were not enough to light the stove. I looked at all of the stories on how easy it was to fix. I ordered the pa
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rt and received it within 3 days. I opened the door part way and lifted it straight up to remove it. I pulled out the bottom broiler plate by grabbing the back on pulling up. I undscrewed the wing nut of the flame bar and had easy access to the igniter. I removed the two nuts from the old igniter. Unplugged the igniter from the easy access door from the back and plugged in the new igniter. Replaced the access door and attached the igniter with the two nuts. Put the flame bar back on, put the broiler plate back on, put the door back on, plugged in the stove turned it on and success. It was so easy. I know in our area I would have paid near $200 for a service technician to come out and do what I did in approx. 20 Minutes and $50 for the part. Thank you so much for you website to help us not so talented appliance repair homeowners.
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Oven ignitor would glow but took 30 - 40 mins to heat
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Catherine from Newton, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Screw drivers
It took me 10 mins to replace the oven igniter and I did it myself. Oven is working fine now. I saved myself a $300.00 repair bill. Thank you for making the part available and saving me dollars!
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Oven wouldn't heat. Igniter was broken.
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Allison Park, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I removed the back of the range to disconnect the wires to the igniter. Then I removed the two screws holding the igniter, screwed the new one in and reconnected the wires in back.
I was really pleased how easy it was to find the part on the website and how quickly the part came. The whole job was a snap. Thanks!
I was really pleased how easy it was to find the part on the website and how quickly the part came. The whole job was a snap. Thanks!
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Oven Wouldn't Light. Smell Of Gas Before Lighting
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from Alexandria, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
First I went online to find out about the availability of the part. In my search, I found what others had experienced and how they repaired it. Second, I ordered the part and followed others stories on their repair efforts. Third, I unplugged the range and removed the racks. Fourth, I removed the bottom of the oven which lifts out bac
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k first. Fifth, I removed the wing nut securing the flame difusser making it easier to access the element. Sixth, I had read that others had problems saving the original screws and/or threaded holes. I sprayed some wd-40 on both screws. They came out and back in without a hitch. Seventh, I removed and replaced the element, snap out, snap in. Eighth, I turned on the oven. It took about 15 seconds to glow but wow, it lit 5 seconds after that. I am my wife's hero!
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Bottom oven burner wouldn't light.
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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James from Lino Lakes, MN
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
If your igniter glows but the burner doesn't light, your igniter is more than likely bad. It should have at least 3.2V to gas valve when the igniter is glowing in order to open the gas valve. The repair is very easy with only a 5/16" nut driver equired to remove and replace the igniter. It's pretty much a plug and play reair.
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Broken knob on older gas oven
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Austin, TX
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
The hard part was finding the parts, this oven seemed to have a temperature control knob that required a long fitting to reach the valve stem. The set of knobs I found on PartSelect were the only ones I could find. They worked great and took about 30 seconds to put on.
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Oven making whooshing sound and not heating up
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jason from Williamsburg, VA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pulled oven out from wall. Unplugged. Pulled out bottom drawer. Removed oven door by pulling up on angle. Removed bottom of oven. Removed old ignitor by taking out screws. Disconnected red and white wiring plastic coupler. Fed new wiring and connected. Mounted ignitor. Plugged back in. Very easy and worked!
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smell gas on oven start up
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Wayne from Long Grove, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
took oven tray out and loosened igniter and replace same works great.
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Oven wouldn't light
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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michael from newhall, CA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
Same as the other entries in this section.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, y ... Read more ou will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.
The only thing I would add is a hint for removing the broiler igniter. As you can see from the oven igniter, the wires connect with a plug. For the top igniter, the broiler, the plug goes through the insulation and then through a hole in the rear panel of the oven. So, when you pull on it, y ... Read more ou will think it is stuck or the wire is pulled taut. That is because the plug hangs up on the rear panel.
Stick your finger through the square hole that you can see inside the oven, and follow the wire through the insulation. You will feel the small round hole in the back. You have to wiggle the wire up and around a bit to get the plug to fit through the hole. Then you will have the slack you need to change the plugs.
That way, you don't have to pull the whole oven out and break all the caulking seals.
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smell gas and sometimes a whoof on ignition
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Maynard from Knox, IN
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I removed the flame baffle , removed the two screws that held the ignitor. Then I pulled the wires thru the back wall and disconnected . I had to cut the the connector and install with wire nuts because connector was different. Works fine now .
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Oven Ignitor went to ignitor heaven.
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brian from Pittsburgh, PA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
The repair was real easy, other than the old bolts which just turned in the sockets when trying to get them out. It might be a good idea to provide two nuts and bolts to negate this problem. I would not mind paying a dollar or two extra for two bolts and nuts. Other than that, the instructions were clear. Product arrived on time and I wou
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ld absolutely use your services again. Oven is back to working great! Thank you!
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