6162 - Instructions

Had to replace front drum support rollers. Removed screws underneath top in back that held bracket that keeps top in place. Slid top towards rear and lifted up. Removed 4 screws that hold plastic front panel in place (inside..2 on each corner) Unplugged front panel electric plugs to remove panel. Opened door..removed 2 screws at bottom of ... Read more door opening. Removed screws on top of front panel. Unplugged door switch plug. Removed front panel. Removed right front roller with 9/16th wrench for nut. Adjustable for back of stud. Lifted up on drum to get roller out. Reversed to install. Left roller a bit harder to get to stud. Removed and installed same as right side. Did not attempt to replace rear rollers. Have them if needed but very much more involved to replace.

I actually went to mr fix it on u tube. Great instruction on how to take dryer apart. First I unplugged the dryer. I found I could reach the heating system by removing the lint tube in the back of the dryer. I put my I phone with the light on inside the back of the dryer and tested the connections to see if all were working. The thermal f ... Read more use was not working. I removed the two wires , red on top and white on the bottom. Then used a small Phillips screwdriver to remove the two mounting screws and removed the fuse. I then used a vacuum to clear any lint from the back of the dryer and inside the dryer. This took me about an hour and a half. I did it this way because I did not want to disassemble the entire dryer to get to the components. I received the fuse in 3 days and tested it. It was fine. I then put it in the dryer screwed it in place, connected the wires. Replaced the lint tube. This took about 10 minutes. Dryer is running great.

The ice maker had been slowly dying and one day just stopped making ice. No water was getting to the trays.

I read that this could be caused by a failure of the valve, even though the continuity test indicated that the solenoid was okay.

I ordered the part Friday afternoon. It was delivered Saturday. I did the repai ... Read more r in 10 minutes.

I pulled the fridge away from the wall.

I unplugged the fridge. I closed the water supply valve.

I unscrewed the two mounting screws using a flat head screwdriver.

I pulled the old valve out from refrigerator.

Using an adjustable wrench I detached the water supply from the valve. I detached the hose leading to the ice maker from the valve.

I pulled the electrical connectors from the connectors on the valve.

I attached the hoses to the new valve, attached the electrical connector, screwed the new valve in its place, opened the water supply, plugged the fridge back in, checked for leaks, and waited for a few hours.

My ice maker is working better than it has in at least two years.

Found disassembly video and watched several times. Suspected that one of the drum wheels had seized up. Found extreme volume of lint and hair inside unit as well as a dryer sheet melted on top of heating unit. Front left drum wheel was worn down from lint and hair jamming its movement. Video made it easy, not a really complicated piec ... Read more e of machinery. Replaced all 4 wheels due to normal wear on other three. Wanted to be sure drum evenly balanced on all 4. Parts came quickly and were easy to install. My sister and I did this together. Would not recommend doing it alone. Took time to vac and wipe down entire unit. Now it runs so quiet we have to look to see if it is operating. Got a brand new machine out of it, saved a couple of hundred dollars in repair bills, and found 11 cents inside the machine. For your own piece of mind, if you have had your dryer for several years, you need to open it up and clean it out. Its not hard... added note, we are both in our 60's... so if we can do it so can you.... Such a feeling of accomplishment, can't buy that in a store....

I unplugged the dryer and disconnected the vent.
I pulled the dryer away from the wall so I had room to work on it.
Pulled the top cover off (slides back).
Took the door off
Took the front adjustable feet on the bottom off
Unscrewed all of the face screws on the front of the dryer
Took the two screws off of t ... Read more he back of the control panel holding the control panel to the metal frame.
Gently pulled on the control panel to reveal 4 screws under the control panel to be able to take the front cover off.
Pulled the front cover off (the dryer door front cover).
Pulled the dryer vent cover off (two screws).
I could now see the heating element with sensor/fuse (right side).
Did a continuity test (beep) on all visable sensors/fuses on the heating element. No beep on the thermal fuse (used website diagram to locate parts to test and replacement part numbers).
Got the part after about a week, tested the parted (it beeped), replaced with new part and put dryer back together, plugged in and the dryer heated. Problem solved.

Turned off water supply and unplugged appliance. Removed lower panel on back of refrigerator with 1/4 " nutdriver. Then removed supply line, and line to icemaker. removed valve from back panel and replaced with new valve. wrapped water connections with teflon tape, turned on supply line, checked for leaks, everything o.k..Replaced back pa ... Read more nel and in 45 minutes had first drop of ice. Job requires moderate mechanical ability and minimum tools. Saved a PANT load of money by doing it myself. VERY satisfied with Partselect.com

Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. ... Read more Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.

I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed ... Read more it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.

Unplugged dryer, pled forward to get access to back of dryer. Removed screws, enabling top, front control clip. door panel to be taken off. Lift out drum, replace heater assembly. drum belt, thermistor. Cleaned entire interior and reassembled, working good as new. All parts fit and were a exact match.

I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The swit ... Read more ch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)

My daughter found the video on youtube, which showed step by step repairing procedures. I just followed it and fixed my dryer in 15 min.

We bought 2 roller wheels to replace the ones up front that turn the drum. We watched a video prior to ordering the parts, then followed along with it as we did the repair. It was really easy to complete, with the hardest part being getting some of the screws to loosen at first. Now it purrs like a kitten. We are so happy to have sile ... Read more nces the racket. One wheel was completely worn away, with shreds of rubber sitting inside the cabinet.

Removed two screws holding valve, removed two 1/4" water lines. disconnected wire clip from old valve.
Installed new valve, connecting water and electrical with ease.
Absolutely Simple!

Watched the video a couple of times. After that it was a breeze.

Replaced idle pulley wheel, worn drum belt and all 4 rollers (1 frozen) due to dryer age. Site video re general disassembly/re-assembly easily adapted to this model and very helpful with exception of replacement of drum rollers. New rollers received (AGM75510755) were pre-mounted on included shafts. This required removal of existing roll ... Read more er shafts to replace with new shaft/roller units. Site video shows placing a new roller on existing shafts after removing a plastic retaining clip. New roller/shaft assembly is a better option and fortunately I did not order extra retainer clips! Rear drum roller shafts have small carved out space to fit a box end wrench to remove shaft nut. Watch out for sharp edges on internal steel parts!