57281B5WW General Electric Washer - Instructions
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Leaking oil into the washer (in tub and on clothes)
54 of 57 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Scott from Bloomington, IN
- Easy
- More than 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Had never repaired a washer before, but have several tools and enjoy working with my hands. Knew it would be cost prohibitive to call a repairman, and didn't have anything to lose. Quick delivery from partselect -- reasonable price, too. This was as easy as simply taking the whole washer apart (NOTE -- there are instructions behind the kn
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obs inside the unit that are very helpful!) replacing the transmission and putting it all back together. Hardest part was getting the hub nut off of the transmission axle. To get it off (REVERSE THREADED, so 'tighten' to 'loosen') I used a 1 11/16 socket and impact wrench. Use the same tool to tighten (but go EASY...don't overtighten). This was not difficult, but just took some time. A couple of evenings later, we were washing again like NEW. Part cost around $160, labor was 'free' and much less than a new $500 top loader or $800 front loader. If you enjoy taking things apart and have some tools, then go for it!
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Pump and Motor Assembly began leaking and then seized.
51 of 56 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Alexandria, IN
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
First I removed the front panel by prying it forward with a Screw driver away from the side panels at the top (wrap a shop rag around the Screw driver to keep from scratching the paint). Once you have the panel pried loose at the top ... lean it forward until you can lift it off the tab type hooks at the bottom.
I next unplugged ... Read more the wires from the motor. The orginal motor had three wires ... two on top and one on the left side. The one on the side is a ground wire for the open frame motor. The replacement motor is sealed and does not require this wire. Just leave it unplugged when the new one is installed.
Next I removed the inlet hose that attaches to the back of the pump. Remove it by loosening the hose clamp and removing it from the bottom of the tub, leaving it attached to the back of the pump. It is much easier to remove and transfer to the new pump once it is out rather than fight with the spring type clamp on the back of the pump in the close quarters inside the machine.
Next I removed the outlet hose from the top of the pump. Squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up and off the pump.
Now I just used a Socket to remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the inside front of the machine and removed the assembly.
I now removed the inlet hose from the back of the old pump. Just squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up the hose and off the pump. Transfer the hose to the back of the new pump reusing the same clamp.
I now bolted the assembly back into the machine, reattached the outlet hose to the pump, and then reattached inlet hose to the bottom of the tub. All that was left to do was plug in the two wires to the top front of the pump motor (as I mentioned earlier, leave the side wire from the old pump unplugged as it is not needed on the new one). I then ran the machine for a few moments with the front off to check for any leaks and then put the front panel back on.
The whole replacement cost about $50 and took barely 15 min. from start to finish. The machine now works perfectly.
I next unplugged ... Read more the wires from the motor. The orginal motor had three wires ... two on top and one on the left side. The one on the side is a ground wire for the open frame motor. The replacement motor is sealed and does not require this wire. Just leave it unplugged when the new one is installed.
Next I removed the inlet hose that attaches to the back of the pump. Remove it by loosening the hose clamp and removing it from the bottom of the tub, leaving it attached to the back of the pump. It is much easier to remove and transfer to the new pump once it is out rather than fight with the spring type clamp on the back of the pump in the close quarters inside the machine.
Next I removed the outlet hose from the top of the pump. Squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up and off the pump.
Now I just used a Socket to remove the two bolts holding the bracket to the inside front of the machine and removed the assembly.
I now removed the inlet hose from the back of the old pump. Just squeeze the spring clamp with Pliers and work it up the hose and off the pump. Transfer the hose to the back of the new pump reusing the same clamp.
I now bolted the assembly back into the machine, reattached the outlet hose to the pump, and then reattached inlet hose to the bottom of the tub. All that was left to do was plug in the two wires to the top front of the pump motor (as I mentioned earlier, leave the side wire from the old pump unplugged as it is not needed on the new one). I then ran the machine for a few moments with the front off to check for any leaks and then put the front panel back on.
The whole replacement cost about $50 and took barely 15 min. from start to finish. The machine now works perfectly.
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Agitator was floating up off of base during washing
63 of 93 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Rebecca from Lititz, PA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
Removed agitator. Removed small bolt holding mounting device. Removed mounting device. Replaced everything in reverse order with new parts. No problems.
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Washing Machine would not balance on spin cycle
58 of 80 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jarid from Louisville, KY
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I replaced the work tub dampening strap because that what everyone recommended to replace for this problem. However the purpose of these straps is to dampen the agitation cycle and they have nothing to with the spin cycle at all. the balance ring assembly had been rubbing on the outer tub so I decided to replace it because of a "balance i
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ssue". However the ring is liquid with baffles to counter balance the load as it spins and it still had the liquid inside of it so it was actual not needed. What fixed my issue was I found a bolt laying at the bottom of the washer. This bolt was one of the 4 bolts that hold the outer tub to the metal support. When it feel out the tub was only held in at 3 points not the needed 4. This allowed it to rock a bit in the high speed spin and you thought it was going to fly into a 1000 pieces. I replaced the bolt and other parts since I had paid for them and everything works great now.
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Washer wasn't filling with cold water.
46 of 49 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Mary from Hellertown, PA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers
I think finding the tools to do the repair took longer than the actual repair!
After unplugging the machine, turning off the water and disconnecting the hoses~ All I had to do was remove the top front panel~ I think that was 3 screws; remove the old part~ 2 screws, disconnecting a hose, and unplugging the 2 connections; put in ... Read more the new part~ reconnecting the hose, 2 screws, plugging in the two connections; put the front panel back on~ 3 screws; reconnect the hoses, turn the water back on, plug the machine back in then tested it and it worked perfectly!
When the kids got home from school and I told them I fixed it they high fived me and said, "Way to go Mom!"
After unplugging the machine, turning off the water and disconnecting the hoses~ All I had to do was remove the top front panel~ I think that was 3 screws; remove the old part~ 2 screws, disconnecting a hose, and unplugging the 2 connections; put in ... Read more the new part~ reconnecting the hose, 2 screws, plugging in the two connections; put the front panel back on~ 3 screws; reconnect the hoses, turn the water back on, plug the machine back in then tested it and it worked perfectly!
When the kids got home from school and I told them I fixed it they high fived me and said, "Way to go Mom!"
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Loud banging noise
40 of 45 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Franklin A from Elk Grove, CA
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Socket set
Removed the front cover of the washer by sliding a screw driver to release the clips. Loosened the 4 nuts that held the drivebelt motor pushed the motor back to release the drive belt. Replaced the drive belt, pulled motor until drive belt was snug and tighted the 4 bolts. At the same time, I replaced the 4 tub dampening straps located at
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the top of the tub and now the unit is just like new.
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Valve was dripping cold water when washing machine was not running.
38 of 40 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jerry from Rogers, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Took 4 screws off of face plate, exposed valve, unplugged power supply, removed wire harnesses to hot cold valves, removed hot and cold water hoses from back of washing machine, removed two screws holding valve body to washer,put new valve in and reversed procedure. ta da!!!!!!!!!!
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agitator was no turning
34 of 36 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jody from Deefield, IL
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Repaired Agitator - required to pull from the bottom pulling on one side a little more then the other. Once you got loose it comes right off. Under neith there is a bolt that holds on agitator coupler. remove the bolt with wrench or socket wrench and then the agaitator coupler. Replace with new agitator coupler ,make sure grooves are alig
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ned when putting on the rotor. Tap the top of the agitator coupler lightly until it is completely seated. Put the bolt on with wrench or socket wrench. Put the agitator back on over the agitator coupler and agin make sure grooves are alighned and push down until it feels it is seated. When done, give it a light pull to make sure it is secure and then you are done.
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washer didn't spin & water would not pump out
35 of 40 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ken from West Monroe, NY
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Wrench set
removed hoses and clamps. removed 2 bolts on pump. put it back together. done 15 min.
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oil leaked on clutch and slipping
32 of 35 people
found this instruction helpful.
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PETER from MCMURRAY, PA
- Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Socket set
followed the instruction on the wiring sheet and removal and repair sheet that comes with the wahing machine. They wee very good directions and the only problem that I had wa getting the 1 and 11/16 inch not off the shaft that holds the tub to the transmission, The main problem was that the transmission had leaked all over the break and t
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he tub would spin while hitting the pipe wrench with a claw hammer. Ended up using a 10 lb sledge hammer to hit the pipe wrench and that finally loosened up the nut, but that was the only real problem i had. I say this was easy except for getting off that nut
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Changed drain hose on GE washing machine
32 of 36 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Andres from Stamford, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
I attached the Drain Hose Clip to the Drain Hose Extension and then pushed the drain hose all the way into the drain hole in the back of the machine. I then screwed the clip to the machine. Done. Very painless. Fast delivery... ordered it on Monday, arrived on Tuesday.
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Water leakage from the bottom of the tub through the shaft seal
32 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Dave from Willcox, AZ
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Thanks to comments already summited to Partselect I was prepareed for the worst. Once I figured out that you remove the agitator assembly with a swift jerk I was able to access the lower portion of the tub. As others have found out the aluminum nut holding the inner tub can not be removed without a hammer and chisel. Once you get past
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that things go well. What is left is cleaning the components and re-assembling.
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agitator is not moving
30 of 37 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Eric from Tulsa, OK
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Socket set
We couldnt figure out why our clothes werent getting clean until I took the door magnet off and placed it on the sensor so we could watch the washing machine while it was operating with the lid open. The agitator was not moving at all. I put a rope through the fins of the agitator on 2 sides, and using a board for leverage, it popped
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right off. I used a socket to remove the coupler screw and put on the new parts. Washer works great now. A very easy repair.
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Washer agitator not working
30 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brenda from Coon Rapids, MN
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Wrench set
First I removed the agitator with a belt. Then I removed the nut with a wrench. The Agitator coupli was smooth on the inside so I knew that was the problem. I got the new part, slid it into place. Tightened the new bolt and replaced the Agitator component with a quick push downwards. Easy!
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Hub under agitator disentegrated
27 of 30 people
found this instruction helpful.
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MARK from RAMSEY, NJ
- A Bit Difficult
- More than 2 hours
-
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
I used the other 4 posting as a guideline but found that what wasn't mentioned here was that the disassembly/re-assembly instructions are actually located inside the washing machine behind the control panel (wish I knew that before I started doing it on my own).
After removing the control knobs (temperature, cycle, etc.), unscr ... Read more ew the four screws and lift the control panel off. Underneath the panel, there was a folded up wiring diagram that includes assembly instructions on the back.
Like others here, everything went smooth until I tried to get the Hub Nut (PS271505) off. No matter how hard I tried turning or hitting it (or the wrenches), it wouldn't move at all. I followed the other people's advise here and ended up taking a hammer and small chisel to the side of the nut. It's an aluminum nut so it cracked pretty easily and was easy to remove after that. Take my advise and just break the nut off if you are having any sort of difficulties getting it to turn. It's worth the extra $11 to just buy a new one!
After removing the control knobs (temperature, cycle, etc.), unscr ... Read more ew the four screws and lift the control panel off. Underneath the panel, there was a folded up wiring diagram that includes assembly instructions on the back.
Like others here, everything went smooth until I tried to get the Hub Nut (PS271505) off. No matter how hard I tried turning or hitting it (or the wrenches), it wouldn't move at all. I followed the other people's advise here and ended up taking a hammer and small chisel to the side of the nut. It's an aluminum nut so it cracked pretty easily and was easy to remove after that. Take my advise and just break the nut off if you are having any sort of difficulties getting it to turn. It's worth the extra $11 to just buy a new one!
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