56241B0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

I used the other 4 posting as a guideline but found that what wasn't mentioned here was that the disassembly/re-assembly instructions are actually located inside the washing machine behind the control panel (wish I knew that before I started doing it on my own).

After removing the control knobs (temperature, cycle, etc.), unscr ... Read more ew the four screws and lift the control panel off. Underneath the panel, there was a folded up wiring diagram that includes assembly instructions on the back.

Like others here, everything went smooth until I tried to get the Hub Nut (PS271505) off. No matter how hard I tried turning or hitting it (or the wrenches), it wouldn't move at all. I followed the other people's advise here and ended up taking a hammer and small chisel to the side of the nut. It's an aluminum nut so it cracked pretty easily and was easy to remove after that. Take my advise and just break the nut off if you are having any sort of difficulties getting it to turn. It's worth the extra $11 to just buy a new one!

I loosened the 4 screws that hold the motor and clutch in place. Removed the motor and clutch and turned upside down. Removed the retaining clip. Pulled the old clutch off (does not come off very easy). Stuck the new clutch on and replaced the retaining clip. Slapped it back into the machine.

First I removed the agitator. The shoulder screw on top of the air bell was almost disintegrated, but after soaking with penetrating oil and a large channel lock pliers I removed the shoulder screw. Next, the air bell required a bearing puller to remove it from the agitator shaft (with force application to the agitator shaft from above) ... Read more . After two days of soaking with penetrating oil, heating with a hot air gun, and countless attempts with a pipe wrench and sledge hammer the 1 11/16 nut was not moving. I drilled down along the flats of the shaft and dug out as much corrosion as I could and filled the cavities with penetrating oil. Next, I drilled down at an angle (so as not to gouge the centering taper of the spinner hub) into the nut in order to relieve some stress - no success. I ended up using a chissel ( blade and flat round ) to break pieces of the nut away which was quite brittle. After removing about 1/8 of the nut's top and tapered portion, it began to turn out with a pipe wrench. Next, the spinner would not lift out off the shaft, so I had to remove the entire tub and transmission assembly (but with the spinner basket attached) as instructed by the paper stored within the control panel. I removed the tub support bracket and motor assembly and the pulley off the transmission (pieces of the brake pad fell out). Using a 2X6 piece of lumber, I fabricated 2 semi circular pieces to fit within the 20 inch diameter of the spinner basket and secured their position with another piece of wood. I attached eye hooks to the wood and with rope,hung the entire assembly over an I beam with the transmission in the 5 gallon bucket and the tub suspended only about an inch above the bucket. I hammered on the agitator shaft until the tub and transmission fell the inch as it separated from the spinner basket. After this, it was just cleaning the areas receiving new parts. I did use a sealant around the new tub seal edges and bottom when assembling. Other than having to tap 1/4- 20 threads in the new transmission brake flange (new part had no threads in the holes) the reassembly went fine. I did have to retighten the new 1 11/16 nut after the first use because the new brake pad really stopped the basket from spinning, but the momentom loosened the nut after 3 loads of wash.

With the symptoms (go from one cycle to next instead of stopping, wouldn't spin and drain sometimes, etc.) the only common element was the "brains"- the timer. I unplugged the washer, removed 4 screws at the top of the washer and removed the dial handle retaining clip with needle nose pliers. Then I unplugged the 1 electrical connection ... Read more , and removed the timer and popped the new one in. I plugged the electrical back in, reversed the process, and washer repair was completed in less than 30 minutes.

Removed front cover, lifted lid. Unnapped the broken tub cover pulling the tub forward to allow the old cover to clear the rear of the housing/top. Installed the new tub cover by once again doing the same thing and carefully snapping it into place. Reconnected the rubber sping offloads, lowered the top and reinstalled the front cover..rea ... Read more dy to run.

I loosened the four nuts holding the motor in place, slid the motor toward the tub to slacken the belt enoug to remove it, then replaced old belt with new belt, pulled motor back in place until belt was tight, then tightened the four nuts holding th emotor in place.

- Troubleshot fill valve first. OK
- Followed leads to temperature selector switch.
- Checked resistance and live voltage at switch.
- Determined switch had failed on "hot" side.

1. SECURED POWER
2. Removed four torx screws on top of dashboard.
3. Removed six sheet metal screws from dashboard back.
... Read more />4. Removed 4 leads from bad switch (one at a time).
5. Placed leads on new switch (one at a time).
6. Removed existing switch.
7. Installed new wired switch.
8. Re-installed dashboard back and top screws.
9. Op-test sat.

Used the repair instruction paper behind the washer control panel and used the online parts diagram. Also the online responces from other customer repairs gave me the idea to take a small pipe wrench (with a sock over the bottom of handle) and tap it with a 10 lb sledge hammer to remove the alumium hub nut. *** It is a backwards threaded ... Read more nut **** I did not know I was going the wrong way until I looked at the new nut and noticed it's reverse threaded!!! After that it was just taking everything apart and putting it back the way you found it.

I followed the instructions provided by GE that were stored in the control section of the washer. Removing the hub nut was a huge pain. It took Liquid wrench, hammer, pipe wrench and patience to remove it. Other than that it was fairly easy. I didn't like the way the tub seal fit so I used some silicon gasket making material to help make ... Read more sure the seal sealed good against the tub.

Based on other research, the location of the leak indicated that the main tub seal needed to be replaced. I took the washer apart before ordering new parts in case I broke other parts in the process and to be sure I could. I ended up having to cut off the Agitator Coupling and really marred up the hub nut. Those were the hardest 2 pieces ... Read more to remove since they had corroded badly after many years of use. I had to use a pipe wrench and a hammer to remove the hub nut and a hack saw to get the agitator coupling off (air bell).
$68.00 and 2 hours later, the washer no longer leaks.

went very well thank you

Finding the disassembly instructions in the control panel was very useful. After disassembly and inspection obviously the transmission had lost oil and deteriorate the belt and actually threw it off. Finding your web site was very helpful. The exploded views parts catalog were great! We had it rush shipped. It was great to speak ... Read more with a representative on a sunday was excellent. The rep was knowledgeable and we concurred on which part were needed. Tracking number was correct via e-mail but only rec'd tracking number for one of the two packages which was stressful at the fedex office at pick-up. All items were rec'd on time assembly was straight forward. The basin retainer nut came loose after 5 loads and made a terrible noise. I applied blue loctite to nut and reinstalled. Seems to be working correctly. Bought an extended warranty which added 4 yrs. Washer failed 2 months after warr. Expired. Figures!! Great experience with partselect thank you.

first use a puddy knife to remove the front cover – slide the puddy knife in the front upper left than right corners where the top meets the front of your washer they are push in clips that hold the front cover (they are not easy to damage)
second pull the front out than up of the bottom clips, there is the rods with a tube assembly ... Read more is either black or yellow that hold the tub up
remove the 2 screws holding the top they are near the clips you used the puddy knife on
lift the lid about 4 inches and you will see how it works, at that point with the replacement part in hand it is self obvious what to do replace the rod.
When done try the washer and if it works, if so put the covers back on.
The shock of it all is watching the natural violence your machine goes through just to wash your clothes

I replaced the pressure switch which I ordered from A-1. It still did not work. I then took a small rigid wire and inserted it into the pressure box on the side of the tub. Then I squirted water thru the tube to clean out the hole where the tube from the pressure switch is hooked up. The washer then worked fine. The pressure switch I repl ... Read more aced was probably OK. This was a learning experiance which cost me $68.00. Still cheaper than a repairman

Popped the front off the washer by placing a towel under the screwdriver to prevent chipping the paint. Had to spent almost 45 minutes soaking up water that had leaked from pump. Must have been leaking for some time before enough leaked under washer and became visible, because there was a lot of rust build up. (1).Removed old pump by firs ... Read more t un-pluging washer and them removing (2) connecting wires from pump. (3).Next use nut driver to loosen flex hose from washer. (not from pump). Loosen spring clamp from discharge hose , and slide up. (4) Using nut driver I removed (2) hex screws that held pump to frame, then removed pump and motor assembly. (5). Mopped up water with large (old) bath towels (6). Used hair dryer to dry area. (7). Used wire brush to brush away surface rust. then used small shop vacuum to remove this surface rust. (8). Used small brush to paint white rust-olem paint on rusted areas, used hair dryer again to help paint to dry, then gave it a second coat and again helped it dry. (9). I then removed flex hose from old pump assembly, checked it for cracks and finding none I attached it to new pump with existing spring clamp. (10). I then put pump assembly back inside washer, but did not attach with hex screws yet. (11). Re-attached the drain hose by sliding the spring clamp back down, making sure it is around the hose and discharge spout. (12). Reattach the flex hose to washer discharge spout. (13). Screw new pump and motor assembly unto newly painted frame. (14). Re-attach (2) wires to pump and motor assembly. (15). Plug washer back in and try filling it with some water, letting it go into the drain cycle to check for leaks. NOTE: You don't have to go through and entire wash cycle. Just use the dial to put some water in then move it to drain and /or spin to get the new pump and motor assembly going. I did this a couple of times and then did an entire load of clothes to ensure there were no leaks. After I was sure there were no leaks, I simply popped the front panel back on. My part cost a total of $64.00 including shipping, and it took me about 1 hour of my time. I checked with my local GE dealer and his cost would have been $98.00 for the part, and $85.00 for labor for a total of $183.00. I AM VERY HAPPY. Oh bye the way I had my part within 3 days of the order and that was with regular shipping. I will always use Parts Select from now on.