5602 - Instructions

a) remove front panel by depressing the 2 clips at the top in line with the lid b) remove the lid switch and 2 screws holding top on and remove top by tilting up SLIGHTLY and sliding to left. c) Remove agitator and by pulling straight up on it and remove adapter underneath d)remove 4 bolts holding 4 rubber straps to top of tub assembl ... Read more y, readily visible when top is removed. e) unplug motor wiring and disconnect pump and bleach hoses from tub f)while lifting up on tub, push down on each of the 4 suspension rods and disconnect them at bottom of tub ( this is the most difficult part, and to make it easier disconnect the rear rods first) g) tilt tub forward and remove tub assembly h) NOW, for the big nut that holds the spin basket in-- #1, it is LEFT HAND THREAD, so you will turn it to the right to remove it. #2, it is VERY TIGHT and requires a 1&11/16" spanner wrench (which I did not have) for removal. Instead, I used a 1&11/16 socket, an extension and an air impact wrench to remove and replace the nut. Assembly is reverse of removal and remember, that nut is ALUMINUM so be careful with that impact wrench when tightening it back up!I replaced the nut and split ring and cleaned the whole area thoroughly, and it greatly reduced the noise in spin mode. I did not replace the metal housing on the bottom of the spin basket, because it was $50 bucks. this probably would have eliminated all the noise, but my repair only cost $19 in parts, including shipping ,and the parts arrived in 1 day.

You tube is the only way to go!

Pretty much the entire machine has to come apart to replace a transmission. The thing to know that no one mentioned is that the hub nut is reverse threaded - that means righty loosey.
Even if I had known, I tried it both ways and I doubt I could have gotten it off without the chisel as the others also had to do. Split ring was also f ... Read more rozen in place by hard water and soap scum so had to break that cheesey piece of aluminum off also. If you are taking apart your washer, I advise ordering these 2 parts so you will have them after you destroy the old ones trying to get to the part you need to fix.

Thanks to parts select for the exploded diagram!

Removed the front panel and lid.
Removed the ring on top of tub and holder.
Had to use a rope and pry board to get the agitator off the shaft. Removed the 7/16 cap screw and removed the plastic agitator block.
Couldn't get the hub nut off and had to use a chisel to break it off (corroded and a left hand thread).
Had to ... Read more use chisel to free the hub from the center pieces so I could lift out the tub. Then I had to hammer and twist the center piece of the hub to get it off form the transmission shaft.
replace in reverse order without any problem once I realize I had a left hand hub nut.

I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have ... Read more listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.

R&R Leaking/Damaged Hose and replaced it with the new one. One thing to be aware of is that after removing screws from the discharge hose upon removing the damaged one there was some water that did not expel from the unit so there was about a cup of water that came out. After removing the leaking hose you will need to remove the retaining ... Read more plastic piece so that it can be placed on the replacement hose. Or if you ordered one put it on the hose so that it can retain the end of the hose in the washer. The anti-siphon clip is located about half way up the back of the washer it simply clips in place.

First I disconnect the power and then I pull the front cover and replace the water pump, drain hose, and the inlet hose this was fixed and straight easy job.My second problem was the overfill problem witch I took the knobs cover and I replace the water level switch.This job was also easy but did not fix my problem.

First, remove the old water pump by disconnecting the respective hose, then wipe the area where the pump was, and proceeded to connect the new water pump, of course I did all this with the machine disconnected from the power electric, then proceeded to connect the inlet hoses of hot water and cold water, electricity connected to the machi ... Read more ne and did a test with clothes in the washing machine. and now everything is going well, thanks for your valuable help.
sincerely, a satisfied customer

Remove agitator. Remove coupling. Reinstall new coupling. Reinstall agitator. My only problem was the 7 day delay in getting the part. I expected 2-day delivery.

i placed the knob on and voila it worked again. the knob was a bit pricey with shipping almost 25.00 but the dryer is 12 years or more old and it is the first repair i had to make so i am very pleased with the dryer and the new knob! the on line photos made it very easy to make sure i was ordering the correct knob with all the views. keep ... Read more up the good work! very satisfied!

We pulled off the bottom cover to access the pump. The washer was on its back and that made it easier to reach. There was two hose clamps to pull off along with the two electrical parts. Very easy to replace.

Unplug machine, verified the hot water line to the washer was clear. Used screwdriver to remove top panel from washer. Removed faulty (rusted) temperature switch from seating. Then removed each of the wires from the old switch with needlenose pliers and placed them on the proper area of the new switch. Placed the switch back on the panel ... Read more and screwed the cover back on. Then plugged the unit back in an tested the hot, cold and warm settings. Easy fix.

I bought 3 parts for I didn't know what I need so I listen to the companies video twice.
I popped off the agitator which was easy. then had a little trouble with getting the screw/nut out it was rusty. Finally got that off then I worked backwards and I found I didn't need all the parts which I sent back with no problems. My machine w ... Read more orks as good as new ,it has stopped making noise. I am really proud I did this by myself and didn't need my husbands help,

I also spent less than 12.00 to fix and a new one is over 600.00.

Thank You
Christine brooks

Our GE washer stopped agitating. We bought us a Whirlpool Cabrio washer with auto-sensing and an impeller instead of an agitator. My wife couldn't get used to washing clothes with so little water. We found out about PartSelect.com and ordered the part they indicated would probably fix our GE washer ($5.86) - the Agitator Coupling Kit. Ord ... Read more ered it on Friday, received it by Fed Ex the following Tuesday. It was an easy installation. Our GE is working fine. Took the Whirlpool back to the store, got our $637.00 back.I plan to use PartSelect.com again,if I need to. We don't like the new type washers as well as our 7-1/2 year old GE.

Problem was intermittent. It would happen once a month or so. Eventually I set next to the machine and kept turning it On and OFF through cycles for about a half an hour until it failed and I was able to confirm that problem was with the water valve.

Buying and replacing the water valve was easy.

WARNING: UNPLUG THE ... Read more WASHING MACHINE FROM THE WALL BEFORE ATEMPTING ANY ELECTRICAL WORK ON YOUR WASHING MACHINE!