54170119 General Electric Washer - Instructions

Replaced the water inlet valve. Your shipping was next day the best I have ever received. Thank You

Very straight forward install. First removed the agitator itself by pulling straight up on it. Then removed the agitator coupling without the need of any tools just pull it straight off. Install new coupler and agitator.

Once I figured out what was wrong (splined, hard rubber part of the agitator coupler had parted from the inner, metal part)the job was easy. But I couldn't really tell what was going on until I saw the new coupler ($31.25)which I didn't even have to use. What I did was rough the outside of the metal core with a coarse file, score the inside of the outer, hard rubber part with a screw driver, clean both surfaces thuroughly and reassemble with JB weld. Let sit for 24 hours, and voila. If I had to do it again I could do it in half an hour (not counting glue set-up time).

its great and saved me lots of money enjoy my washer again

quck delivery thanks. removed back panel and valve assembly. replace unit,and replaced panel. yep it works

Using the 1" putty, push in on the 2 clips holding the top of the washer. Lift top, exposing the top of tub. Remove old rubber seal from top edge of tub. To ease installation of new seal, stretch it over the edge of tub which tensions it, then start tucking the outer lip along the outside edge, tilting the seal towards the outside edge until the seal is completely in its groove all around. I had to hold down on the seal to keep it from rolling off while I lowered the top back down. When the lid is down, push hard to engage the 2 clips that lock it down.

In my case, the splined shaft (steel) had worn off all splines in the aluminum coupling. So the spin cycle would eventually get enough friction to spin the clothes, but the friction required to agitate the clothes back and forth was too much. Since the splines were worn off, the whole agitator lifted right out with no tools. There is a cap on the top that needs to be kept in good condition, so be careful popping it off. After removing the cap, I cut a hole using a utility knife, then punching a flat head screw driver around the edge. Careful not to damage the edge that the cap seats to. I then matched a socket the size of the top of the coupling and hammered the coupling through the bottom. I used the flat blade also to clear the aluminum out of the splines on the shaft. The fit of the new coupling into the agitator is tight. I put the coupling in the freezer, and the top of agitator in hot water to help resize things for installation. I also used dish soap on the coupling straight out of the freezer. A small amount of grease should be used on the shaft to make it easier and prevent galvanic corrosion. It still took all my weight to install. Don't use a hammer, as you don't want to damage the area the cap goes on. Pop the cap on and wash.

Turn off cold & hot water inlets. Detached water and drain hoses from Washer. Unplugged electricity.Removed back panel using nut driver/wrench would also work. Detached plate holding old valve and then old valve from plate. Held old valve in one hand, detached each electrical connection from old valve and attched to same location on new valve. Reinstalled and reconnected everything. Work like a charm. $20 bucks instead of a new washer. Point of fact: the valve contains the selinoids that regulate water flow. I did not know this and was trying to find "Selinoid" instead of inlet valve.

1. Lifted Agitator out. 2. Heated Sleeve until loose. 3. Pushed old Rubber out of Agitator. 4. Cleaned Splines on Agitatorshaft and inside of Agitator. 5. Used Lithium Grease to lubricate inside of Agitator. 6. Used Hudraulic Ram to press New Coupling in place. 7. Placed Agitator on Agitarorshaft. 8. Closed Machine and ran a cycle to make certain particles from repair were cleaned away.