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5318 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 5318
46 - 60 of 86

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Gear oil leaking from transmission seal
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Samih from CLIFTON, NJ
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
i Had washer up side down took puly out and transmission seal out used screw driver install your part add seal on it tap it back in used socket added quartz of gear oil90 as recommended put every thig back it good experience and saved hundreds of dollars for new ones thank so much for ur video and ur technical people on your site
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Washer was not agitating or spinning
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Joseph from BETHESDA, MD
  • Very Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Wrench set
I followed the instructions on your website to diagnose the problem, select the part needed for the repair, and fix the problem. Everything was as described in the video.
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A load imbalance caused one of the four yokes to break in two.
2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Timothy from Richmond, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I had to tilt the machine to gain access to the screw that holds the yoke bracket in place. Then I removed the one screw that holds the yoke bracket and removed the yoke and it's cushion. I then had to remove the two friction pads from the old yoke and install them on the new yoke. I was able to re-use the old yoke cushion and after re-as sembling the yoke and cushion, I installed this assembly with the one screw. Righted the machine and the job was done.
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Washer wouldn't agitate, spin, or drain
1 person found this instruction helpful.
  • Karen from BALTIMORE, MD
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Unfortunately, this washer doesn't have a front panel: to get to the belt, removed the back panel. Unfortunately, you can't get to the belt from there either, unless you turn the washing machine upside down. Since the top of the washer is not level (control panel sticks up), the washer needs to be tipped upside down onto something the was her lid rests on, but keeps the control panel off the ground. We used...a sled. Unfortunately, since it didn't drain the last time used, even though we bailed the tub, there was still a fair amount of water that drained out once upside down. This is a heavy washer - took 3 of us tipping it over carefully onto the sled. We unbolted the motor, put in new belt, but needed to put a piece of the shifter arm assembly in place, which came loose. Took 2 sets of hands to accomplish all this. Works now - 2 small loads of laundry done successfully.
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Oil-soaked drive belt split; wouldn't move agitator
3 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • james r from cincinnati, OH
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
Pulled washer away from wall. Observed problem. Ordered belt. Went on vacation. Cut belt in two to remove. Removed flex coupling to pump. Tried to force new belt onto big sheave, but couldn't really access properly. With help, tipped washer onto its front. Then access permitted forcing new belt onto big sheave by turning (only one d irection permitted by gear box). Most of time spent cleaning up oil from gearbox which dripped on floor and splattered on back wall. Wonder how long 15 yr old gearbox will last?
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smelt rubber burning, diagnosed it as a belt
7 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • CATHERINE from POCONO LAKE, PA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Turns out it wasn't the belt. The belt was fine, worked without water, replaced in washer spot, reconnected water, worked fine. Put clothes in, wouldn't agitate, smelt burning again.
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Washing machine tub would not fill up on rinse cycle.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • David from Norfolk, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Replaced the water control valve (the thing the washer hoses connect to on the back of the washer) There were 3 bolts that had to be removed and once the part was loose, there were four wires attached, I disconnect each wire from the old part and reconnected to the new part at the same time to keep from getting the wires mixed up. Then I bolted the new part back in place...worked perfect. Total cost of repair was less than 30 bucks...
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The valve the controls hot water coming into the washer no longer passed hot water through.
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
  • JAMES from LOUISVILLE, KY
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I looked up the part on line, ordered it and installed. Veru easy since the part that needed repair was right out in the open.
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Water leaking out of the bottom of the washer
1 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edwardo from Borrego Springs, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
I own a vacation rental two hours from my home. Our guests
said that there was water coming out from under the washer.
I called our local handyman Lolo who is very bright. He came
over and looked at the washer and saw that a plastic part was leaking. He got on your website and put the part number in and we had our part wit hin two or three days of ordering it.
I was impressed by your having this older part-maybe 15 year old washer,the fast delivery since we didn't do it by rush order. I also didn't have to hire an expensive repair service company. We are back in business thanks to your quick service and delivery. We will use you again in the future for sure.
Best Regards,
Trish W Haskell
Borrego Springs, CA
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Waher would agitate buy not spin
5 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Donald from San Luis Obispo, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Trouble shooting on internet only mentioned worn drive belt as a cause for no spin. No mention of the possibility of a transmission problem burning out the centrifugal clutch. So the drive belt was ordered and when I checked tracking when it was late, I was informed that it was already delivered and signed for by some stranger, jmorris. Later that night I found the package at my door to late to do the repair that night. The next evening the repair was attempted and it was not difficult with the youtube video for guidance. Back together but it did not spin or agitate. On the third run dthrough the procedure I noticed that the clutch was really hot and the notor was not locked. But the big pully would not complete but bart of a revolution and hard stop. The repair was a failure and after the time spent diagnosing the wrong problem with inadiquate trouble shooting on the internet chart and the time ordering and waiting for the second chance delivery. The failed repair delayed to the point that the customer did not have time to do their laundry berore their weekend trip. They will have to get a new machine after waisting so mych time with a less than fully informed repair attempt. The internet trouble shooting help was inadequate. The delivery of the parts was botched using FedEx instead of UPS. At the last minute after hours of involvement it came to light that the machine was history and we were suckered into buying the wrong part and running out of time for the customer to ready their clothes for their trip. I felt so bad of the machine resisting the repair process thaqt I discounted my labor time and told the customer pay me what they felt would be ritght. It was not all part selectt's fault but they had their page in the story.
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Water leaking out the bottom of washer during fill
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Matthew from Forest Falls, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed back cover. Opened top lid - slid putty knife under front lip to release latch (2). Removed old valve hose and clamps. Replaced with new valve hose and new clamps. No more leaking during fill.
Other Parts Used:
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Washer would not fill.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Melissa from Karns City, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
removed 3 screws from the back. Then removed the little water line clamp. unplugged the 4 wires. took the new part. plugged it in. put on the water line clamp. put the 3 screws back on. put the hoses on the back again. turned on the water supply. and started washer.
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Hot water would not pour out at normal rate.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from Delray Beach, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
This was a very easy repair. First I unpluged the 120VAC power cord. Then I turned the water off. Next I opened the hose connections. Then I removed 3 screws from the back which exposed the Inlet Valve. I removed the old valve taking note of where the wires went. Then I installed the new one. It took less than 10 minutes!
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No hot water entering machine.
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Rodney J from Derby, KS
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Did some checking to make sure the filter, screen and hose were unobstructed. Turned off water at faucets, disconnected hoses and drainage hose. Unplugged machine and pulled out far enough to access back. Used nutdriver to remove 6-7 screws that held the back on, and then inlet valve plate. Removed clamp on outlet hose, then one by one re moved wires, making sure to connect them to the same connections on new valve. Re-connected outlet hose and reversed procedure. Easy fix. Went ahead and replaced hoses while I had it out.
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no hot water
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Thomas from Dana Point, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Pulled top off and removed corner mounting plate then unscrewed mixing valve.replace wiring to valve and mount new valve in it's place .put back support and corn brace .then attached hoses and put back in service .work great for 20 plus yr machine.thanks tom
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All Instructions for the 5318
46 - 60 of 86