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4KSRS27CHT00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions
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Front Door Ice Wouldn't Work And Air Going Into Freezer
498 of 612 people
found this instruction helpful.
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BILL from BATESVILLE, MS
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers
Thanks to the pictorial diagram, I was able to order correct parts. It was just a matter of removal of broken parts and replacing them. Ice maker now working and air is no longer getting into freezer which was freezing up ice maker. Thanks for timely delivery, now I am able to use ice dispenser, which I haven't used for long time. Tha
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nks
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Refigerator door was not closing all the way if not pushed shut.
394 of 419 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Norbert from Sugar Land, TX
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Remove the top hinge cover. Removed the top hinge support. Lifted the door from the bottom support. Old door cams were worn completly flat. Replaced the lower door cam and closing cam use a little vasalene for lubricant on the cam surfaces. Placed the door back on the lower hinge support. Replaced the top hinge support. Door is cl
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osing great now.
Thanks for the quick part deliver.
Thanks for the quick part deliver.
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Plastic bits dispensed from Ice Dispenser in Door
205 of 254 people
found this instruction helpful.
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john from seaford, VA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed Ice bin from Fridge
Removed all bolts on bin with nut driver...about six
Removed housing...be careful with spring on crusher/cube control rod
Removed C clamp on end of auger with small slotted screw driver and needle nose pliers.
Removed plastic nut on end of auger shaft
Remov ... Read more ed Ice crusher jaws and laid them out in the correct order
Removed Ice propeller and installed new part
Put back together in opposite order
Easy
Removed all bolts on bin with nut driver...about six
Removed housing...be careful with spring on crusher/cube control rod
Removed C clamp on end of auger with small slotted screw driver and needle nose pliers.
Removed plastic nut on end of auger shaft
Remov ... Read more ed Ice crusher jaws and laid them out in the correct order
Removed Ice propeller and installed new part
Put back together in opposite order
Easy
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External Ice Guide Broke a Tooth and Fell Off
170 of 186 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Tracy from Jacksonville, FL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
We waited two years to do this because we didn't want to hassle with a repair man to come out and charge us arm+leg for something so simple. Finally we searched and found the part on line. It came two days FASTER than promised. Kudos to Part Select.
Snapping it on was a breeze, although you do have to apply more pressure than feels ... Read more comfortable with plastic clips. We can know get ice out of the external door system again.
Snapping it on was a breeze, although you do have to apply more pressure than feels ... Read more comfortable with plastic clips. We can know get ice out of the external door system again.
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
159 of 188 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Cathy from Winter Park, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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Refrigerator Door quit closing on it's own......
140 of 153 people
found this instruction helpful.
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T.w. from Batesville, AR
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Socket set
Door quit closing on it's own......
** Order the following from www.partselect.com
Lower Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS323495
Upper Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS327641
1. 1/4 drive socket and standard socket
2. On top of door .... remove black plastic bracket ... Read more cover on top of hinge
3. Have someone hold the frige door in place
4. On top of door .... remove 3 screws that hold the hinge onto the frige..... at this time, door will be loose
5. Lift door up and off the bottom hinge.
6. sit door on the ground. Tilt door at an angle for access to the "cam"
7. On frige, at the bottom, use socket to remove one screw that holds the old "bottom" cam in place..... then replace with new one.
8. While door is tilted, use socket to remove one screw that holds the "top" cam in place.
9. You will need to gently pull this cam out.... shouldn't take too much effort though.
10. Replace with new cam.
11. put door back on hinge
12. At top of frige, reinstall 3 screws
13. Reinstall plastic cover.
14. Voila, you're done
Thanks PartSelect !
** Order the following from www.partselect.com
Lower Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS323495
Upper Door Closing Cam -- Part Number: PS327641
1. 1/4 drive socket and standard socket
2. On top of door .... remove black plastic bracket ... Read more cover on top of hinge
3. Have someone hold the frige door in place
4. On top of door .... remove 3 screws that hold the hinge onto the frige..... at this time, door will be loose
5. Lift door up and off the bottom hinge.
6. sit door on the ground. Tilt door at an angle for access to the "cam"
7. On frige, at the bottom, use socket to remove one screw that holds the old "bottom" cam in place..... then replace with new one.
8. While door is tilted, use socket to remove one screw that holds the "top" cam in place.
9. You will need to gently pull this cam out.... shouldn't take too much effort though.
10. Replace with new cam.
11. put door back on hinge
12. At top of frige, reinstall 3 screws
13. Reinstall plastic cover.
14. Voila, you're done
Thanks PartSelect !
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Broken elbow on icemaker water fill tube.
130 of 142 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Charles from Orland Hills, IL
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed 2 screws holding water fill tube to rear of refrigerator and pulled out, matched old part with new to make sure of proper match. Guide new fill tube thru hole, making sure it is aligned with slot in ice cube tray on inside of freezer. Install new plastic line from water pump outlet to water fill tube, check for leaks, job done.
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where ic e dispencer spring is held to door broke at mold
123 of 143 people
found this instruction helpful.
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helen j from murrells inlet, SC
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
after ordering ice dispencer repair kit, and removing the outer parts found out that the problem was the ice dispencer door shell . this part is no longer available.It seems to me that if whirlpool wants to have return customers they have to stand behind the product. Well I made a L bracket and drilled a hole to to recieve the spring keep
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er and glued this to the housing and used a 3 1/12"finishing nail as the pin all works fine
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Warm Air Getting Into Freezer
109 of 132 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Chesterfield, MO
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Patience is a virtue. The kit really works. 1st, lift the front plate of the ice dispencer by placing a flat head screw driver into the two slots at the bottom of the panel. When the panel is lifted up slightly at the bottom, push up on the panel to remove it. Careful not to break panel and the wires attached. Next, remove the wiring p
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anel by removing the two screws on left and right sides. Then, unplug the old black ice cover from the wiring panel (this is the heating plug that you will nolonger need). Next, remove the parts and replace them with the parts in the kit, noting where each part comes from, etc. All parts in the kit are necessary and should be used. Some of the replacements need trial and error. Patience will be important. Also needed is a person that loves to solve problems, especially because the kit does not come with instructions. But the kit definitely works!
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The Bearing Cup Assembly was broken and ice would jamb against it during the ice making cycle.
110 of 140 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from Chester, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
I removed the ice maker from the refrigerator, by removing one screw on the underside bracket and loosening the two screws at the top side, then lifting the ice maker off the loosened screws. I then unplugged the electrical harness that supplies power from the refrigerator to the ice maker. I then disassembled the ice maker by removing
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the front cover which is snapped in place, then removing two recessed screws at the front. I removed the broken part, I then reassembled the ice maker with the new part. I replaced the two recessed screws at the front and snapped on the cover. Then I reinstalled the ice maker in the refrigator by plugging in the harness, slipping the ice maker over the loosened screws in the refrigerator and replacing the screw that was removed from the underside bracket. Tightening all the screws completed the project.
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No ice in ice trey
79 of 104 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Wayne from Leesburg, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace h
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olding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.
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Plastic Auger on the Ice Maker broke.
70 of 78 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Wallace from Weslaco, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Was very confused when the part sent out looked nothing like the one it would replace. There was a note in the package saying that this would replace it but I was doubtful. Suggest that it be made very clear that this is an upgraded part to replace a bad design.Had not problem once i checked the website and found this to be correct replac
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ement part. I didn't have any problem with the order of the crusher blades as once I removed the shaft nut I slid all of the parts in order onto the awl. Then it was a simple matter of sliding them off of the awl onto the auger shaft. The new metal auger works much better than the plastic one it replaces.
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Water would not dispense.
76 of 100 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Timothy from Junction City, OR
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Unplug the refrigerator. Snap off the ring surrounding the dispenser from the bottom. There are two slots on the bottom. This is the toughest part of the repair because my refigerator is older and the part stuck. Then unscrew the two hex screws and unsnap the parts, then reassemble with the new parts. Snap the ring back on and you're all
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set. Pretty easy.
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Broken light switch
81 of 133 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Randy from Hays, KS
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Socket set
Took all the screws out of the plastic shroud that encloses the switch .There only four that I needed to remove, were the two in front where the switches that go,they go in horizontally and two in the back with large washers on them that hold the back to the top of the box that go in vertically.The switch was a snap ( make that two snaps
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) the wiring is almost self explanatory. then it gos back to the way you took it off. OH! and don't forget to turn the light bulb all the way back in to the socket , so the light will work after you take the time to install it yourself.I had the water supply line from under the box to the water dispenser in the door and the total bill on that was one hundred thirty seven and a hand full of change.Don't be afraid to do it yourself the savings is enough on one one item to make several months payments on a new one Randy the "Handy Man'
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Light Would Not Go On In The Refrigerator
62 of 82 people
found this instruction helpful.
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DANIEL from MINNEAPOLIS, MN
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the le
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ad wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!
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