4819 - Instructions

i removed the stove eye and the old drip pan. then i placed the new drip pan in and replaced the eye. the new drip pans fit way better than the ones that i took off of it.

just insert

I've been to many appliance repair stores looking for White-Westinghouse Stove Parts and have been told their 'unavailable'! Then I checked PartsSelect.com- and they were listed as 'available'. The 6" & 8" Drip Bowls shipped quick and arrived packed well. The new Drip Bowls aren't as heavily made as the originals- but they are exact repla ... Read more cements and very easy to replace. The wife is happy and with many replacement parts & how-to-videos for repair we plan on keeping this stove for another 20 years!

very easy

took out old element put in new one and oven works as good as new

Instructions included with terminal block assembly. Toughest part was to strip the insulator off of the old wires on the stove. I was originally going to just purchase one but after looking at the other terminal blocks and seeing the burnt insulation and some of the wire strands, I just replaced all 4. PartSelect customer sevice was ve ... Read more ry helpful to confirm the correct part number I needed for my stove.

Replace the old ones with the new ones. Was VERY impressed with the quick delivery!!

prepared the parts as directions displayed, removed the heating coils and popped the hood on the range, simple curcit 2 wires in to the main harness for each coil. snip, plug and twist add heat wrap to seal the new conections and done very simple fix saved me buying another oven....for now

I made a 4' h 3.5' w and 7.5' long powder / ceramic coat oven capable of 700 degrees f. the elements were chosen due to their size and capabilty. I am useing -5- 2950watt elements split on 2 40 amp 120v coil contactors regulated with a PID and thermocouople.

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

First I want to thank Part Select for having the video online or I would not have attempted the repair. Also I saved over $75 on the parts!!!!!! It would have cost me $105 for parts and $125 for service tech to replace the burned off terminal blocks with new ones. Parts cost me $35 with shippiing, I did the repair saving me $195 !!!!!!!!! ... Read more I replaced the parts as describied in the video and all is well. By the way, I got the parts in less than 24hours after ordering, cheaper than driving 30 miles to pick up overpriced parts !!!!

Very simply following the online video instructions.

Reviewed the online repair video a few times then got started. Although only two were bad, I replaced all four terminal blocks. I removed the range top instead of using the built in kick stands. this left me much more room to work and I was able to clean the top of the range really well before getting started. Wires for the back terminals ... Read more where short and a little difficult to use after cutting off the old terminal blocks. The terminal block mounting option for my style range included with the repair kit would not allow me to utilize the screw for the third wire on the left rear burner. I used a drill to carefully widen the hole in the mount to make the original screw fit as there are no screws included with the kit. This added the extra time to complete the repair. Over all the repair was simple to complete but having to modify the terminal block mount was dissapointing considering the web site selected parts for my specific model number. Still a bargain compared to what a service call or new purchase costs. I will be reparing my ranges from now on.

if iever need to do this again i will unplug the stove and take the back off. iwill remove the spade connectors from the back and remove and replace the unit from the front. from the rear i will replace the spade connectors and the insulation . plug in the stove and make sure everything works. unplugthe stove, put on the back,plug in th ... Read more e stove and position it.

The foul order was the cause of a "Mummified Rat" that I found on the bottom Left /outside wall of the oven. I first Unplugged the stove and turned off the gas. I removed the grates and the burners. Each burner is held down with two (2) 3/16" screws which makes it a total of eight (8) screws in all. After removing all eight screws, yo ... Read more u can now pop up the burner lid with a putty knife or a large Screw Driver. I used a large screw driver, After removing the "Lid" you will then see the "Insulation Blanket" draped over the oven, to remove this blanket there are two (2) copper wires securing the blanket in place, you'll have to cut these in order to install your New Blanket. Removing the "Blanket " is a "No Brainer" just be cautious and don't snag any of the "Igniter Wires" The "Insulation Blanket" goes on one way, this can be identified by the pre-cuts on the blanket. I started out on the left side of the stove, and had the right side of the "Blanket rolled up. As I tucked the "Blanket" under the "igniter Wires" and slowly and gently feeding it with my left hand till it lines up with the pre-cut and drapes itself into place as you maneuver it down with your hands Now start with the right side by unrolling the "Blanket" and following the same procedure making sure the "Insulation Blanket" is fully extended on both sides of the oven.