41797802791 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

1. Unplug dryer from outlet
2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs
3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way
4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel
5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom.
6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer.
7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum.
8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit
9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket)
10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer.
11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect.
12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside
13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.

carefully pry up on front washer top to release plastic keeper pins,remove 2 phillips screws from beneath lower front washer panel,slightly lift upward on panel to release.remove old broken belt,push new belt beneath large tub pulley,put belt on small motor pulley,push back belt tension /idler arm,start belt on large tub pulley,turn tub pulley by hand to run belt on,release tension on idler arm.replace front panel and lower top.WALAAH!!!! you are done.

1. I began by removing the two screws that hold the front panel in place. I then lifted the top free of the front panel and tilted it back to get it out of the way.

2. Using my fingers, I released the tabs that connect the tub cover to the tub. It took some effort to remove the cap("Mechanism") over the bolt connecting the agitator to the agitator drive block because I didn't want to break the tab. Once removed, I removed the bolt and the agitator. I then removed the two bolts that clamp the Trunnion to the agitator shaft.

3. It took a little more effort to remove the tub because of corrosion, however, by rocking the tub back and forth I was able to work it free and remove it. I then removed the bolts connecting the Trunnion to the tub. It took a hammer to remove the Trunnion from the tub, once again because of corrosion.

4. After removing the tub, the seal assembly was next and it was easy to remove. I cleaned the agitator shaft with steel wool before beginning the reassembly to remove the corrosion. Before installing the new seal, I lubricated the agitator shaft and the inside of the seal with a silicone grease that is normally used for water faucets. The seal installed easily although care was required to insure that the seal did not twist out of place when sliding it down the agitator shaft.

5. The rest of the reassembly went easily. Since my old filter on the bottom of the tub was clogged, I replaced it with a new one. It took a little time to get every tab on the filter aligned properly so that it could be rotated into place, but it went easily. Everything else reassembled with no problems.

6. It took considerable time to figure out how to replace the drive belt idler arm assembly because I could not figure out how to remove the pin that the idler arm pivots on. I finally reviewed the parts list on-line again and determined that there is a small C-clip that holds it together. Once I knew that. I was able to see the clip and remove it. From that point on, it was very easy to remove the old assembly and reinstall the new one. If I had to do it over again, I would have changed the sleeve at the same time that I changed the idler assembly because the assembly still wobbles on the pin more than I would like. However, it works fine so I won't worry about it until other repairs are needed.

The parts that I ordered from Parts Select were exact matches for the parts that I removed. They were in stock and were shipped the next business day. I would rate the repair as very easy.

Unplugged Dryer.
Opened top of Dryer, over the drum.
Removed Thermal Limiter.
Tested the Thermal Limiter - found it was open.
Checked all vents and exhaust tube for lint build-up.
Replaced Thermal Limiter.
Closed top of dryer.
Plugged Dryer back.
Tested Dryer - it works.

Unpluged dryer. Removed the top of dryer by pushing in a retaining clip on both sides of the front lip with a screw driver. Remove the two screws on both sides of front panel. These screws are square head or phillips #2. Unplugged the wiring harness to front panel (make sure power has been disconnected). Support drum and lean front panel away from dryer body. Front panel will pull off of tabs at bottom. The old drum glide is fiberous and hard to remove. I removed most of it with the pliers, but had to carefully scrape the balance of the glide off with the wood chisel. The adhesive that comes with the repair part has an acetone base, so I used acetone (or you could use nail polish remover) to remove the old adhesive. Once the acetone has dried, I applied an 1/8" snaking bead of adhesive to the front panel. There is more adhesive in the tube than you need so do not use too much. Make sure that you get adhesive as close to the base of the lower seal as you can. Follow directions on adhesive tube and then attach the glide. I let it set up for about 30 seconds. Place the front panel back on the tabs of the dryer. Carefully lift the drum an fit it on the front panel and insert the two screws holding the panel to the base. Reconnect the wiring harness and make sure it is not in contact with the drum. Check to make sure that all of the electrical connectors on the timer are still in place. Reassemble the dryer. Reconnect power.

well, i started at the top and worked my way down. by taking the top off, it gave me more room to get the dryer tub out. took the two screw`s out of the vented plate on the back of the machine to undo the belt. this is a stackable washer-dryer combo, so next i took off the white plate on front between washer & dryer. took off the control panel, unpluged it, then took dryer door front off. then removed the two screw`s that hold that bracket on ,in the back of dryer, pulled the drum out & replaced the belt, but before replacing anything i took the shopvac to it , there was alot of lint in there.when replacing the Grounding Ball Clip & Grounding Ball, i took a one inch by two inch magnet and used it to hold the Grounding Ball & Clip in place so i could get the two screws started in the Drum Support Bearing & Bearing Bracket. after installing that i put the shaft in place & lined the dryer tub up with the 3 screw hole`s ,and boom, bang, pow...nothing to it. it`s easy...parts came very fast....Thx PartsSelect.com...i`ve told all my friend`s about PartsSelect

I found a electrical diagram and some common problems on some websites which led me to check the thermal limiters. There are two right up top near the back of the dryer - one mounted closer to the heating coils and one mounted directly to the sheet metal on the inside back of the dryer. Using an DMM on the "Ohms" setting, I checked each sensor to make sure that they were "closed" (near zero ohms). Sure enough, the sensor mounted on the back of the enclosure was open (high resistance) which prevented the dryer from starting. To confirm, I shorted the two leads going to the sensor together temporarily and wrapped them with electrical tape and then tested the dryer - it worked perfectly. The part from Part Select was ordered and shipped very quickly. Since the sheet metal screws holding the sensor on were difficult to access with the drum in place, I used small machine screws/nuts to fasten the sensor - this allowed me to tighten the nuts from the outside of the dryer, making it very easy to attach.

First, I removed the top panel which is held on at the front by pressure clips. Second, I removed the entire front panel which entailed removing 2 screws and 2 wire couplings. Third, I removed the 3 screws on the inside center of the drum which turned out to be unnecessary. Fourth, I slid the drum forward in order to access the rear bearing. Lastly, I replaced the entire bearing assembly including the shaft, bracket, bearing, grounding ball and clip. Again, probably not needed but I had ordered the parts in advance in preparation for the worst.

First I removed the top panel held by four screws at rear of panel, pulling the panel foward and up. Then disconnected the power and water connections. Then I removed the two screws holding the flow valve to the washer rear panel,pulled the valve foward ,removed the two electric connectors, pinched the water clamp with pliers and removed the water connection to the valve. Then replaced with the new valve followed the above steps in reverse order, finishing up by re placing the water connections and power. Then checked fo proper replacenent and leaks before replacing top panel.

One bolt (after removing the fabric softener dispenser and a water tight cover you will see it). Remove the bolt and slide it straight up and then it's the reverse to put in the new one. Very simple repair and very inexpensive if you willing to do it yourself.

First, remove the 2 screws that hold the lower front cover in place, remove the cover and disconnect the plug and the ground wires from the pump. Next attach the washing machine drain hose to a wet vac, since even if the machine is empty, there will still be water in the outer tub and the pump. Suck the whole thing dry, remove the 2 bolts that hold the cover onto the pump, use a pliers to remove the 2 hose clamps, remove the hoses (no mess because of the vacuum). Remove the 2 screws that hold the pump to the base of the washer and remove the pump. Save the mounting bracket from the bottom of the pump. Orient the outlet on the new pump to match your old one if needed, instructions to do this are included with the new pump. Install the mounting bracket onto the new pump. Mount the pump to the washing machine base, reconnect the hoses, the cover and the wiring. Put the drain hose back into your drain. Run the machine, check for function and leaks. If all is well, replace the lower cover. Don't forget to tell your wife that the job was a whole lot harder than it looked.

The Lid Lock Assembly came super fast! The install would have been flawless, but the "pre-drilled" holes on the new Lid Lock Assembly were way to small. We found that out after we had reconnected the wires and gotten it into place. Aside from that small set back, the install went great! This repair is definitey not one that you would need to pay a repair person to do!

removed the screws, disconnected the wires. installed the new elements replaced the wires.

The problem with my very old washer was that the tension spring had broken long ago and I had jerry-rigged it in place with a cable tie. It would work, but you had to give the drum a spin by hand when it hit the spin the cycle. This probelm further caused the premature wearing of the drive belt, due to slippage. I ordered both a new spring and a new belt. Upon their arrival, I removed the two screws holding the front panel and lowered it off and out of the way. The old, worn belt was very easy to remove, as there was very little tension on it. Next I attempted to remove the washer that holds the idle arm on. It is in a very awkward spot, and it appears the the washing machine is sort of built around it. I bent it gradually with locking pliers until I could force it off with the blade of a flat screwdriver. Then the idler arm was easy to lower of its axle by twisting the drum a bit and pulling it to one side. I put the new spring into the idler arm, making sure the plastic bushing was in place and replaced the arm. I then repositioned to belt and replaced the front panel. It works great now.

Removed fastening screw and Agitator. Removed and replaced Agitator Drive Block. Replaced and fastened Agitator. Done in 5 min.

Ordered part around noon. Shipping was 3-5 days. Part arrived in LESS than 24 hours.

Very happy camper here!