This is a door striker, it is gray in color and is a part found on your washer. The purpose of the striker is to keep your washer door closed for usage. This piece will attach to your appliance lid and will activate the door switch when your lid is closed. The most common reasons for needing to replace this part are if your lid will not c...Read moreonsistently open or close, and your washer will not consistently start. The only tool you will need to complete this installation is a Phillips screwdriver.
This is a door hinge with bushings and works in conjunction with your washer. The purpose of this part is to attach to the outside of the front door panel to help with the lid opening and closing properly. The hinge will fasten the front panel of the washing cabinet to the lid of the washer. This piece is roughly 9 inches long, almost 3 i...Read morenches high, and roughly 2.5 inches wide. The reason for needing to replace this part is if your lid/door will not open or close properly, which may lead to leaking.
This is a replacement screw for your washer or dryer. The screw is approximately half an inch in length and is a Phillips-head screw. It screws in from the outside of the drum, into the vane/baffle. The main reason you would replace this screw is if the old screw is missing or damaged. This part is sold individually and is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
This washer shock absorber mounting pin is a small but essential fastener that secures the shock absorber to the outer tub of a front-load washing machine. By holding the shock absorber firmly in place, it helps stabilize the tub during wash and spin cycles, reducing excessive vibration, shaking, and movement. Made from durable materials ...Read moreand designed for a precise fit, the pin supports smooth operation and protects other components from stress caused by unbalanced motion. Replacing a worn, broken, or missing mounting pin can help restore proper vibration control, improve washer stability, and prevent noise or damage during operation.
This washer door boot spring clamp secures the rubber door seal in place, maintaining a tight, watertight fit between the tub and front panel during operation. Its tension design helps prevent leaks and keeps the door properly sealed throughout wash cycles. Replacement is recommended if the seal becomes loose, water leaks from the front, ...Read moreor the clamp is damaged, helping restore a secure fit and reliable washer performance.
This dispenser drawer handle frame attaches to the detergent drawer of select washing machine models, allowing for smooth opening and closing. Made from durable white plastic with a clear exterior accent, it’s designed to restore functionality when the original part is cracked or the mounting tabs are broken. Measuring to fit precisely, t...Read morehis replacement part is compatible with various models and is sold individually. Be sure to verify your washer’s model number before purchasing to ensure proper fit.
This is a shoulder screw and is used in conjunction with multiple appliances within your home. This specific model is size 10, and it has 16 threads to an inch. This part is made entirely of metal and is chrome-colored. The shoulder screw measures to be less than an inch long, and has a flat bottom and top. In general screws are typically...Read more made of metal, and the purpose of them is to be used as a fastener when attaching one piece/part to another. This model is sold individually.
This detergent drawer assembly is designed to hold and dispense cleaning agents during the wash cycle. It features separate compartments for liquid or powder detergent, fabric softener, and bleach, ensuring each is released at the correct time for optimal cleaning performance. Positioned at the front of the washer, the drawer helps mainta...Read morein proper distribution and prevents residue buildup. Replacing this part can resolve issues such as detergent not dispensing, leaks or puddles near the drawer, lingering odors, or difficulty opening and closing the drawer. Installation is straightforward—slide the old drawer out, align the new one, and secure it in place.
This part is the replacement screw for your washer. The head is approximately inch in diameter and the screw is approximately 3/4 inch in length. It is made of metal and is sold individually. This is an authentic OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer.
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Augustine - For model number 41741122410
October 14, 2021
When i hit the start button to wash doesn't do anything
Hello Augustine, Thank you for your inquiry. We have researched the model you have provided and we would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: door lock and switch assembly, the electronic control board, and the power cord. Good luck with your repair.
Kenmore model number 41741122410 only works on rinse and spin setting. All other settings do not start washer.
Hello, Thank you for your question. You will need to check with the manufacturer directly. The control board for your model is not available any longer and we do not have a substitution part unfortunately. If they give you a part number feel free to check back. Good luck with this repair.
2 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Derrick - For model number 41741122410
March 10, 2020
Derrick, in the normal cycle the washer time will skip from 55min to 5min in 2 to 3min and will shut off
Hello Derrick, Thank you for the question. This does sound like the Control Board PartSelect Number PS12584816 is defective and will need to be replaced. Hope this helps!
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Eloisa - For model number 41741122410
February 8, 2025
My washer will not fill completely to what ever cycle selected, and pauses during washing.
Hello Eloisa, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend checking the pressure switch, part number PS2349296, to solve the problem. A malfunctioning pressure switch can most probably cause this problem. We hope this helps!
when not in use. washer is filling with water. plumber checked the drain no blockage. no water leaks around the washer or door when in use.
can figure out what is wrong.
also was trying to replace the door but can't seem to find a replacement
Hello Sarai, thank you for your question. We recommend checking to see if the Spring-Held Bellow Clamp PS1146211. If it is sprung, it can allow for leaking. Another common part that can often leak is the Water Inlet Valve PS3490374. We hope this helps.
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Broken Door Catch
574 of 593 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Joy from Columbia, MO
Really Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers
This was one of the simpliest repairs I have ever done taking less than 5 minutes to complete. On the inner door I removed the two screws that hold the plastic catch in place. I then removed the broken catch and put the new catch in place. Finally I replaced the two screws that hold the catch in place and it was done.
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Door Striker broke which was a result of the hinge problem.
114 of 149 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Paul from Grinnell, IA
Easy
Less than 15 mins
Screw drivers
Removed the screws holding the door. (One was stuck a little so used an air drill with Phillips head to get the torque needed but someone with a strong grip could have done it as it came out very easily). I removed most of the screws holding the front to back of door to exchange the hinge. There was a problem with the old hinge slopping
... Read more around and not allowing the door to align properly when shutting it. The new hinge works better. See note*** below on doorframe. I pretty much was able to get the door back together and make it work. I then exchanged the door striker with no problem. It has a built in key so you cannot attach it incorrectly. The next thing was to just reattach the door to the machine and it worked right off the bat. ------------- *** Unfortunately, there were two screw mounts in the Outer Door Frame - Chrome Part Number: PS3495258 that were broken. This doorframe is listed as a $200+ chrome part whereas it is actually a plastic material that is extremely over priced for what it is. Like I mentioned two of the screw mounts had broken off so those screws are just "decoration" now. (These are screws that basically hold the back cover to the front cover). If this becomes a problem, I will simply modify what I have and make the screws fit before I spend $200+ on that part. (It looks like this could be drilled out and a long screw and nut run through to make it work. TELL THE WASHER OPERATOR… just be careful opening and closing the unit (don't slam the door but carefully close it) and it should work a lot longer. I might investigate the make up of a washer the next time I buy one … but the chrome vs. plastic is a hard one to spot. I hope this helps.
The striker is really easy to replace. Remove 2 #3 phillips screws, replace the striker part, and tighten the screws.
It got more complicated when too many striker tips broke off inside the latch assembly and prevented the tip of the new striker from going inside. To get at the latch assembly, I had to remove the big rubber g
... Read moreasket that connects the drum to the frame of the machine. I removed this at the drum end. Big mistake! It took two of us to get the gasket back onto the drum, and I had to take the frame end of the gasket off anyway. That end is a lot easier to put back on. Anyway, I finally got to the latch assembly, which attaches to the machine with two screws. It has 3 connectors and the housing is a grey plastic clamshell that latches in 3 places. It came apart and parts came out. Jamming the latches open and very gently prying the clamshell open may let you escape the small parts barrage. Once I got everything back together, it all worked.
Unfortunately, the story doesn't end there. This machine has broken 4 strikers. They break during the wash cycle. Taking a cue from a previous DIY description on this site, I took the hinge apart. It looks like there is a part missing, because there isn't anything that keeps the door aligned with the rest of the machine. The door drops down as low as it can go on the hinge pin and the plastic of the door frame rides directly on the arm of the hinge part. I've shimmed it up about 3/16" temporarily, and it seems to work, but I can't escape the idea that I shouldn't have to do this...
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