41620148 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions
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After twelve years the prongs on the top rack began to break and rust.
9 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jim from Wichita Falls, TX
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
I ordered a replacement from partselect.com and received it in just three days. The only difficult part was deciding how to remove the white plastic end caps on the sliding rails. Finally, I took a small screwdrive and pried out the crimps in the metal, pulled the old caps out, inserted the new ones, and squeezed the metal together again
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using needle-nosed pliers. Nothing to it!
Note: The configuration of the new rack isn't exactly like the original (size and placement of the prongs differ somewhat) but it fits perfectly and works great.
Note: The configuration of the new rack isn't exactly like the original (size and placement of the prongs differ somewhat) but it fits perfectly and works great.
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Motor seized on 1990 GE dishwasher
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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DAVID from UNION MILLS, NC
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The motor seized up on my 1990 GE Dishwasher
Repair would cost 360. Replacement about 600
I ordered the motor and pump from PartSelect for 137..44
Remover the under counter washer (it‘s very light) and removed the water and drain line and disconnected the power. Turned the washer on it’s top to access the motor and pump an ... Read more d removed the electrical plug in lines, and the clamps holding the pump on to the connections. Replaced it with the new motor and pump, reconnected the electrical plug ins, added an adapter hose part, tightened the original clamps then reconnected the water, drain and electrical connections and reinstalled the washer. All in about an hour, The only glitch was the grounding screw for the ground wire on the motor. The screw was too long to tighten. Substituted the original shorter ground screw from the old motor, and that worked fine. Only used 4 parts from the large assortment of parts supplied.
Immediately ran the washer through a cycle, all worked perfectly.
Repair would cost 360. Replacement about 600
I ordered the motor and pump from PartSelect for 137..44
Remover the under counter washer (it‘s very light) and removed the water and drain line and disconnected the power. Turned the washer on it’s top to access the motor and pump an ... Read more d removed the electrical plug in lines, and the clamps holding the pump on to the connections. Replaced it with the new motor and pump, reconnected the electrical plug ins, added an adapter hose part, tightened the original clamps then reconnected the water, drain and electrical connections and reinstalled the washer. All in about an hour, The only glitch was the grounding screw for the ground wire on the motor. The screw was too long to tighten. Substituted the original shorter ground screw from the old motor, and that worked fine. Only used 4 parts from the large assortment of parts supplied.
Immediately ran the washer through a cycle, all worked perfectly.
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attaching overflow micro switch to new plate
10 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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GEORGE from CHAMBERSBURG, PA
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Once i had the dishwasher removed everything went as the instructions indicated except for the overflow switch.I removed the switch from the old bracket which is not required,just install the switch assy. to the new bracket and proceed as instructed. the total repair shouldn't take more than 1 hour if you don't make the mistake i made.I
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AM VERY SATISFIED WITH PRODUCT.
I HAD NEXT DAY DELIVERY AT REGULAR POSTAGE CHARGE.
I HAD NEXT DAY DELIVERY AT REGULAR POSTAGE CHARGE.
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The old pump for this 21 year old dishwasher was leaking. Reviewing the cost of a new dishwasher at the big box stores convinced me replacing the part would be much less money.
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John from Deep River, CT
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I had hoped to be able to do the entire replacement at the floor level through the front panel without moving the dishwasher out of the cabinet. That turned out to be impossible because two of the machine screws holding in the old pump rusted and would not budge.
I did however manage to do the replacement by moving the dishwash ... Read more er only 16 to 18" out of the cabinet so that I could work on more than one side. A word of advice: Once the pump is disconnected get it out of the house as soon as possible. It will continue to leak on your floor otherwise. No point in getting your pants, shirt and tools all wet.
The best part of this replacement came when I buttoned the whole thing back-up and ran it. This new pump was significantly less noisy than the old one making it possible to stay in the kitchen and actually have a conversation with someone. (My dog no longer leaves either.)
Would I do it again....you bet!
I did however manage to do the replacement by moving the dishwash ... Read more er only 16 to 18" out of the cabinet so that I could work on more than one side. A word of advice: Once the pump is disconnected get it out of the house as soon as possible. It will continue to leak on your floor otherwise. No point in getting your pants, shirt and tools all wet.
The best part of this replacement came when I buttoned the whole thing back-up and ran it. This new pump was significantly less noisy than the old one making it possible to stay in the kitchen and actually have a conversation with someone. (My dog no longer leaves either.)
Would I do it again....you bet!
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Dishwasher would not Drain
10 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Alfred from Fernandina Beach, FL
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Since the pump and the motor was a single unit, I removed the assembly by disconnecting the electrical plugs and drainage connections. This was a very simple installation. I reversed the above steps, reinstalled the dishwasher and all worked out well.
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Motor was jammed, just heard a humm from unit.
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Brook from Madison, WI
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned it onto it's side so I had access to the motor and pump underneath. I determined which version of the old pump I had. I removed the old part and easily installed the new motor/pump following the directions. It took a little while for the water to begin flowing when I started
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it back up. Eventually it did get going.
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Dishwasher was leaking between the pump motor and pump assembly
10 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jesse from Royal Oak, MI
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
The repair went smoothly. There were actually instructions included with the parts, so that was nice. The only "gotcha" I found was that . . . after you take off the old food-chopper, you have unscrew the old impeller from the motor shaft. This was a bit difficult and you'll want some good pliers to do it. Don't worry about stripping whe
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re the food chopper screwed on-to, that part is attached to the impeller and there is a new one on the new impeller. When I re-installed everything onto the dishwasher, it rattled the first couple of times while the wear-ring was finding it's seat. Don't worry, that's normal. It went away by the third wash. I think I still have a small crack in the pump housing, though. The pump housing is two halves of molded plastic fused together along a seam, and I think the seam is starting to leak. It's about one drop every 45 seconds. I'm thinking JB Weld will fix it.
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The seal for the drain valve was leaking.
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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mary from orlando, FL
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Screw drivers
I removed the front bottom panels to give me access to the Solenoid area. I did not take out the dishwasher from the cabinetry. I removed the screws holding the solenoid assembly and the C clip holding the hand fan shaped white nylon thing onto the valve shaft. I slipped these to the side. Then I cut through and removed the push on nu
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t with a wire snipper plier. Then I used a knife blade tip to pick out the black seal. I then slipped the new seal onto the shaft, being careful that the flat side was outward, and slid it down the shaft and , with my fingernail, pushed it completely flush into position. The biggest challenge was the push on nut. It does not push on easily and must have the lips pointed outward. It required the use of a 3/8" diamater tube slipped over the shaft to tap the nut down the shaft. This caused the shaft to push into the pump housing, which caused the valve to bind. So I used a vice grip to pull out on and hold the shaft while I tapped the push on nut with a flat head screwdriver. Then I just reversed the solenoid assembly removal. But , when I ran the dishwasher, it no longer leaked.
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Dishwasher was leaking
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Ira from Fort Edward, NY
- Really Easy
- 1- 2 hours
-
Pliers, Socket set
Disconnected the electrical, water supply and drain. Pulled unit out from under counter, tipped it on its side and replaced the motor/pump unit. tipped it back on its legs put it back under the counter connected the water supply, drain and electrical. All went well. The unit performs as it should. it took about two (2) hours without rush
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ing through it.
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Stinky Dishwasher
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jeremy from Hailey, ID
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers, Socket set
I pulled the dishwasher out and detached the drain hose. I attached the new drain hose after cleaning out the connection to the garbage disposal.
Now my dishwasher doesn't stink anymore!
Now my dishwasher doesn't stink anymore!
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Old roller wheels were starting to stick due to cracking
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jeffrey from Springfield, VA
- Really Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
1. I pulled off the plastic end caps to the top rack that allows the roller wheels to be pulled out of the aluminum rails. You need to push in the raised edge of the plastic caps so they clear the rail slot in order to remove them. This takes a little bit of finger pressure or you can use a flat-edge screw driver to pop them out.
... Read more />2. Once this procedure is completed, you simply remove the rack and rollers from both rails and remove the old roller wheels and replace them with the new ones.
3. I used a phillips-head screw driver to tighten up the rail wheels before re-installing the top rack into the rails and then re-inserted the end caps. Pliers are handy to help get the end caps back into the rail slots.
4. I finally used a silcon spray on all of the rolling parts of the top tray assembly for lubrication.
... Read more />2. Once this procedure is completed, you simply remove the rack and rollers from both rails and remove the old roller wheels and replace them with the new ones.
3. I used a phillips-head screw driver to tighten up the rail wheels before re-installing the top rack into the rails and then re-inserted the end caps. Pliers are handy to help get the end caps back into the rail slots.
4. I finally used a silcon spray on all of the rolling parts of the top tray assembly for lubrication.
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Water leak at lower right corner of door.
9 of 13 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Patrick from Canyon Country, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
Replaced door seal, right and left corner seals. Piece of cake. A five minute job.
Thanks
Thanks
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Very, very easy. Took about 5 minutes. The end cap was on and working. And the repair company would charge $65 just to come out and look at it. It costs $9.00 to fix it. I am moving on to the refrigerator next. Very satisfied. Shipping is well worth the money. Ray D, Ansonia, CT
8 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Raymond from ansonia, CT
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers
Old cap was already off and had string on it. Cut the string. Placed end cap over. Used needle nose pliers to open metal rail a little and put in new cap. Locked right in. That was easy. Thanks again.
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2 rollers and end caps were broken were broken
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Old Lyme, CT
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Screw drivers
Pulled the basket out the appliance and took what was left of the roller off and replaced them and slid the basket back onto the slide channel into the appliance. Then snapped the end caps on. Almost too simple. Less money than it costs to have the service man ring your door bell.
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Water wouldn't drain.
7 of 8 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lawrence from Silverdale, WA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
After disconnecting the supply and drain hoses I unscrewed the security screws and slid the unit out of it's space under the counter. I tipped the machine about 30-45 degrees to one side and examined the underside. I noticed a solenoid that appeared to control a valve leading to the drain tube. I cycled the washer through a wash cycle
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and noticed that the solenoid never activated. I removed the solenoid and found it filled with debris. I cleaned it out and reinstalled it, but it still did not function. I ordered the part from PartSelect.com because they had the clearest description of the part I needed. Delivery was quick and installation took only a few minutes. After hooking everything back up and sliding the machine back in place, it works like new.
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