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40518 (APBESEU) LG Washer - Instructions

All Instructions for the 40518
121 - 135 of 201

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leaky inlet valve
  • Michael from Granite Bay, CA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
found the leak, went to the website, called customer service, ordered the part... $24 later, problem solved. Great customer service and on-line support
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the water inlet was leaking
  • gerald from wis dells, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
pulled off top of washer to get at the inlet valve disconnect two hoses take two screws out and then you put it back together the way you took apart and your done
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Inlet hot water valve was leaking.
  • John from Houston, TX
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Unplug washer. 2. Shut off water supply (hot and cold). 3.Remove hot water hose at washer inlet. 4. Remove the 2 plastic pieces that hold the washer top to the washer body by removing the 2 retaining screws. 5. Pull the top back to remove and set the washer top off to the side. 6. Unclip the electric harness from the inlet water valve. 7. With your pliers, loosen the clamp on the water inlet valve discharge hose and remove the hose from the valve. 8. Loosen and remove the 2 screws holding the inlet valve to the washer body. Install new hot water inlet valve and follow steps in reverse. Check for leaks before plugging washer back in. Run washer and check for leaks. Note: Excellent video available on You Tube. Consider replacing both the hot and cold water connecting hoses during the repair if they are old.
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Water inlet valve coil was leaking water.
  • Robert from Asheville, NC
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Unplug Washing machine first. Then remove 2 screws at the back of the top cover. Slide the top cover back then lift and remove. Unplug electrical connector @ inlet valve and remove water lines 1 going in and 1 out of valve. Remove 2 screws holding assembly in place then install new valve assembly and all other components in reverse order.
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rotor assembly stripped. barrel not turning
  • Gregory from Meridian, MS
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench set
1.open back of washer with screwdriver. 4 screws total. 2. Remove assembly with 17 mm socket. 3. Install new rotor assembly with socket. 4. Replace back of washer with sscrews. 15 minutes total time.
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my lg washer wasnt draining
  • chris from glenwood springs, CO
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was so easy. i searched my model it brought up this site and the most common problem popped up without my even asking and recommended the part. i got it one week later and it was so simple to fix. a repair man wanted three times the part price to come to my home twice and would have had to wait longer. you guys were very helpful
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Bellows had developed a small hole
  • Verle from Malcolm, NE
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Removed the old bellows (2 squeeze hose clamps and one screw adjustable hose clamp) slid on the new one and it was done!
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water would not drain, nothing jamming pump
  • nicole from chicago, IL
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
new pump was a little different ,but mounted properly. Tipped washer on its side, changed pump by working trough bottom and back access. It went pretty smoothly, works fine.
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It was torn and leaking.
  • Denise from Show Low, AZ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Took off the old one and put the other one on. The only difficulty was that my husband has big hands and had a hard time getting to one end.
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Hole worn in bellows over time
  • Jamison from Elk Grove, CA
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
UNPLUG WASHER.Unscrew 4 screws holding silver plate at back of unit. Remove plate to expose inside of unit. Locate drain hose at bottom of washer tub. Hose connects at front drain, bottom of tub, and at rear at the pressure sensor. Front and rear simply slide clamps down by grasping clamp tabs and sliding clamp off connection point. Disco nnect from tub bottom by loosening main clamp with Phillips screwdriver and pulling downward. Have a towel handy as there will be water in the hose, and it will pour out when removing it from the unit. Installation is the reverse of removal. ATTACH THE HOSE ASSEMBLY TO THE DRUM FIRST, THEN FRONT, THEN LASTLY REAR. This order is the easiest way, otherwise you will spend extra minutes trying to get the tub connection to seat properly. Plug it back in (duh), then you're good to go for another 4 years or so until another hole wears in the hose. I have performed this repair on 3 different units, with 4 years being the average lifespan of this part.
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Not pumping out water
  • Patrick from Ronkonkoma, NY
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Hardest part was getting the correct part. Due to some glitch somewhere there was a mix up in the database for the correct pump number. This unit has two pumps mounted to the same housing. One is a recirculating pump and one is discharge pump. I ordered the discharge pump and kept receiving the recirculating pump. Discharge pump is LG PART#4681EA2001T and recirculating pump is LG PART #4681EA2002H Once in hand the install went fairly smoothly. Removed top - two screws on back of unit. Removed control panel with one screw on upper right inside corner, associated plugs and snap clips. Removed soap tray and drained water through filter tube. Removed screws in front of filter. Using Vise grips stretched spring from around front seal. Removed screws holding front of washer to top frame (2?)[accessed after soap tray removal]. Pump assembly located in bottom left, removed associated hoses, Marked wired colors on pump housings and removed. Removed assembly. Unscrewed pump, installed new pump and reversed procedure to reassemble. Struggled mostly with replacing spring around front seal. Stretch it as far apart as you can as you "roll" the spring in and then massage the seal to get the spring into correct position. Definitely a doable repair. Good Luck.
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OE CODE - The washer machine would not drain
  • Gustavo from Ukiah, CA
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
After checking for blockage on the drain hose and checking on any blockage on the bottom left corner filter and not finding anything i decided to open the machine. Everything suggested a broken drain pump
ITEM
PS3579318 Drain Pump and Motor Assembly which is located on the bottom left corner also and it attaches to the botto m left corner filter. And voila! The machine did not work! Now started throwing a FE code and it would not fill up. Well, the new pump was stuck! All i had to do was to stick my fingers in the bottom left corner filter orifice and move the fan like devices that make the new drain pump work, that did it! Be careful not to do it while the machine is pluged in, those plastic blades may hurt your fingers. To reach the drain pump you have to take the top, control board and front (door and gasket) of the machine off, about one hour labor.
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Washer not draining & grinding sound when it hit the drain cycle
  • Robert from Odessa, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Followed the instructions that a fellow DIYer posted in PartSelect and a few I watched on Youtube. Pull out the detergent drawer, remove the back screws, slide the top off, unclip the control board, unplug Power & One more switch so that I could move it aside. Take the gasket retention wire off the door gasket & tuck it inside. Remove the screws in the bottom & top. Then slide the front panel, including the door up (not easy) and out. The part received was only the pump motor so I had to take a few pictures before so I knew I got it together right. Remove drain houses, pump screws, slide pump back and remove pump. A few more screws to remove the pump from the housing & replace with new pump. Put it all back together. It works! It only took about 45 minutes
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Pool of water under washer after a run
  • Daraius from AUSTIN, TX
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.
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Will not start after dorr is closed. Shows Code dE. Door locks properly, two clicking is heard before code shows up.
  • Juan from Anaheim, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
1. Remove spring-loaded clamp assembly. 2. Partially pull out the large rubber gasket near the lock switch assembly to gain access to the lock switch assembly. 3. Unscrew two screws holding the lock switch assembly. Carefully separate the connector from the lock screw assembly and replace it with the new part. Reinstall in reverse sequenc e. Ensure that the electrical connector is fully seated unto the lock switch assembly and the connector latch is fully set against the lock switch body. Also make sure that the large rubber seal is fully seated around the door opening to prevent water leak. Restarted the washer and everything worked as before.
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All Instructions for the 40518
121 - 135 of 201