4046 - Instructions
Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!
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Dishwasher rack was rusting and partially broken
21 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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John C from Indianapolis, IN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
The repair only required me to lift out the old unit and set the new rack into the dishwasher. I was pleased that there was nothing to put together. The rollers were already attached.
It took longer to open the shipping box than to do the installation.
It took longer to open the shipping box than to do the installation.
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Deteriorate Lower Rack
21 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from Brentwood, CA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
A no brainer. Simply open dishwasher door, remove lower rack and set new rack in place. Roll the new lower rack in dishwasher and close door. It fit perfectly and life routine was instantly on it's way without disruption.
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Water was leaking form around drain valve shaft.
20 of 23 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Barry from Knoxville, TN
- A Bit Difficult
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I called the repair guy, and he told me I'd have to replace the motor/pump assembly. He said he could do it for around $250 to $300. I logged onto this website for a look and saw the seal available. After reading the other responses, I figured with a seal and the cheap push-nut (that sometimes gets mangled upon removal), it would be wo
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rth a try.
I pulled the dishwasher partly out from under the cabinet; disconnected the front support mount, the drain hose, and the two water boots; dropped the motor/pump assembly; removed the solenoid; removed the e-clip, push-nut, shaft, and old seal; and then reinstalled everything. The hardest part of the repair was the tight working conditions. I wonder how many people pay hundreds of dollars because of this $15 part.
I pulled the dishwasher partly out from under the cabinet; disconnected the front support mount, the drain hose, and the two water boots; dropped the motor/pump assembly; removed the solenoid; removed the e-clip, push-nut, shaft, and old seal; and then reinstalled everything. The hardest part of the repair was the tight working conditions. I wonder how many people pay hundreds of dollars because of this $15 part.
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spray arm was cracked and the top part kept spraying off
19 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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sheila from dyersburg, TN
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
just unscrewed it from the dishwasher with my hand and put the new one back on the same way
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Wouldn't Keep Water In Dishwasher - Bad Drain Solenoid
20 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Christopher from Nellysford, VA
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Rather than remove the dishwasher from the counter, I performed the repair inplace, which was much less work (although I did have to lay on the floor).
After turning off the power, I removed the two access panels at the bottom of the unit, disconnected the wiring from the pump and solenoid, loosened the drain hose fitting and drained ... Read more most of the water out of the unit and into a shallow pan (the drain solenoid was stuck open, so this was pretty easy - otherwise, I still could have manually actuated the drain valve & solenoid to drain water through this hose).
There was alot of water in the unit and my pan overflowed a little. If I was doing this again, think I would have disconnected the drain hose from under the sink and drained out through that into a bucket (I could have controlled that flow better).
Once the water was out, there are just two hose clamps that hold the pump onto the unit (one on top and one in the back), and a stabilizer bar that connects the motor to the front frame. Removed these and the whole unit came right out.
The replacement pump & motor was exactly the same as the one that came out, so I didn't need any of the hose or wire adapters that came in the kit.
Reconnected the two pump connections, motor bracket and wiring, and the unit was good-to-go!
After turning off the power, I removed the two access panels at the bottom of the unit, disconnected the wiring from the pump and solenoid, loosened the drain hose fitting and drained ... Read more most of the water out of the unit and into a shallow pan (the drain solenoid was stuck open, so this was pretty easy - otherwise, I still could have manually actuated the drain valve & solenoid to drain water through this hose).
There was alot of water in the unit and my pan overflowed a little. If I was doing this again, think I would have disconnected the drain hose from under the sink and drained out through that into a bucket (I could have controlled that flow better).
Once the water was out, there are just two hose clamps that hold the pump onto the unit (one on top and one in the back), and a stabilizer bar that connects the motor to the front frame. Removed these and the whole unit came right out.
The replacement pump & motor was exactly the same as the one that came out, so I didn't need any of the hose or wire adapters that came in the kit.
Reconnected the two pump connections, motor bracket and wiring, and the unit was good-to-go!
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racks had rusted but dishwasher still worked perfectly
19 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Harold from The Colony, TX
- Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Screw drivers
bottom rack was easy as just pull out and replace. Upper rack had to move front part of the brackets to pull out rack which did require some figuring out but I did finally get it and once I figured out one side the other was easy.
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My dishwasher stills works perfect, but most of the upright prongs on my upper dish rack had broken and fallen off. I couldn't see buying another dishwasher so I entered my model # on the Part Select Website. I was easy, and three days later the new one was delivered to my doorstep.
18 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thomas from Spring, TX
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Pliers, Screw drivers
Replacing the rack was a "no-brainer". I simply removed the plastic keepers on the ends of the roller racks with a screw driver, pulled the old one out, slid the new one in, and then replaced the keepers with pliers. It couldn't have been easier.
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trouble code F10 low oven temperature, oven not overheating,low resistance reading on ohm meter
19 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Michael J from STATEN ISLAND, NY
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Turned off electric,removed rear panel and replaced part.oven is now operating good as new.
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Dishwasher timer not working.
18 of 21 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Lance from Seattle, WA
- Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
Our older dishwasher would get hung up and not proceed to its next wash cycle. I removed the power to the unit took it apart to inspect. I figured it was somthing to do with the timer. I unhooked the power connection to the motor for the timer. I then plugged the unit back in and checked voltage to the timer motor. I had power at the conn
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ection. I then plugged the connection back into the timer motor. The timer motor still did not function. I went online looking for parts and found this site www.partselect.com. All the parts needed to make repairs were listed and good pictures showing the parts I needed. The part was recived a couple days later. I installed the new timer plugged the unit it and it works great now. I even purched a couple other parts to make the unit good as new.
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Detergent Cup would not latch closed
17 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jared from MARLBOROUGH, CT
- Really Easy
- 30 - 60 mins
-
Screw drivers
I ordered parts before opening. My theory was to have the parts so that the dishwasher was not apart for longer than necessary, in the hope of avoiding the wrath of momma bear who just wants a new one... Once I opened up the door I realized the spring for the main lever arm had broken its mount. I drilled a new hole and reattached the
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spring. I did not need any parts. However, the original parts corresponding to the three parts I ordered were all beat up and brittle, so I was happy to replace anyway. I did not even explain, she is happy the cup looks new and is happy with the dishwasher. It even says Cascade on it, almost like an upgrade :). If your cup does not latch I would order the three parts I did and also order the lever spring. It was very corroded after 30 years, so I would have replaced if I purchased it. Next time.. :)
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Nothing more than a worn out check valve,easilly accessible and easilly changed. The valve wouldnt close fully due to deteriation of the piston stopper.
17 of 19 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Kevin from Roanoke, VA
- Really Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Removed bottom tray from the dishwasher and in the back there is a screen with 5 hex head screws. Removed the screws and then lifted the screen out to expose the vavle. Unscrewed the valve by hand an installed the new one,hand tighten only. Reversed order for reassembly.
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oven would not heat up error code F10 showing on veiw screen
17 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Jess from DEWEY, OK
- Very Easy
- 15 - 30 mins
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Nutdriver, Screw drivers
move the range out and unplug power supply, removing the back cover allows access to the probe, this can be done with screw driver or nut driver, loosen clamp that holds power cord in place and move backing out of the way, be careful sheet metal can be sharp, locate the probe unplug the connector and remove screw holding probe, pull ol
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d probe out install new probe, fasten down and plug in connector. attach backing and tighten clamp on power cord, plug in to power supply, turn on oven and give it several minutes for probe to work, it took only 20 minutes to replace the bad probe and the oven works like new hop this helps
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Mice ate holes in the Sump housing
16 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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David from East Greenwich, RI
- A Bit Difficult
- 1- 2 hours
-
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First shut off the Power and Water to Dishwasher, removed from under counter, removed sump screen and retaining clamp from sump housing and then loosened seal from inside dishwasher cavity. Upon removal I went in search of a replacement part and found Parts Select on the web, entered my model and make at there web site and found the part
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I needed, I could verify the size by the easy picture on a one inch tile background for the dimenision . I called in the order since I wanted overnight service, I received the part and after cleaning the area where it goes I proceded to put things back together, this took about a hour and a half and the dishwasher is back in service
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Dishwasher not draining
14 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Philip from Norton, MA
- Easy
- Less than 15 mins
-
Nutdriver
Found great information on this site describing the problem. My 9 year old GE Triton dishwasher has not been draining. I thought at first it was something stuck in float somewhere or perhaps a bad pump, but after searching around, I found this site and other stories similar to mine. Most of the reports suggested a worn check valve in th
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e floor of the dishwasher tub, apparently a common issue with some GE models. I removed the strainer located at the back of the tub (4 screws removed w/ 1/4" nutdriver), then unscrewed the check valve to inspect it. Saw that the valve seat was very worn. Ordered the replacement part, received it 4 days later and installed in less than 10 minutes. The best part was I didn't have to remove the dishwasher or crawl underneath to complete the repair. Well worth the $20 for parts & shipping.
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Range would start beeping and needed to be unplugged.
15 of 18 people
found this instruction helpful.
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George from TURNERSVILLE, NJ
- Very Easy
- Less than 15 mins
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Nutdriver
Remove 4 screws on back panel. Unclip wire connector and remove probe and install new probe.
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