400912 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Found a forum on the internet that said the Air Check Valve located under the screen on the bottom of the back wall inside the wash compartment may be the culprit. Took it out by using nut driver to remove screen, and twisting the part out. The seal was deteriorated. Repleacing the part was simply the opposite, and very easy.

I also replaced the screen on the floor of the wash compartment because the rubber was deteriorating there too. Here I had to remove the spray arm by carefully prying the locking tabs outwards and lifting the entire spray assembly upwards. Then, then plastic covers need to be unscrewed and removed. The new part had the plastic cage molded into it. So I discarded the old plastic cage. There are a couple of retaining clips that are a little tricky to get off the plastic posts. But, they can be removed by prying a standard screw driver underneath and working them off the post. Do not break the plastic post, and save the retaining rings. The new part does not come with any screws or retainers, so you will need to re-use them. Simply, place the new screen in position, slide on the retaining clips, and screw down the cage. The spray assembly is just slid back onto the shaft and snaps into place. A lot of writing, but was rather simple to do. 15-20 minutes.

Completely remove the door from the dishwasher - It's easier to work on this way.

First the spring tension is NOT that critical - the spring just needs to not be mangled and really out of shape. Unless someone has taken a pair of pliers to it, it should be o-k
to use. I even mangled up the slot in the lever with a pair of pliers to try and jeery-rig it and it still works fine - you MUST at least have some resemblance of a groove here for the spring to
catch.
1) hook the hook on the inside of the lever where the slanted groove is on the cam. (see your great diagram)

Put all the pieces together at this point, shaft,spring and lever

2) There are two sets of grooves that correspond to matching notches in both the lever and the dispenser shaft. Make sure these match up to one another.
3) Using a pair of hemostats or tiny pliers pull the other side of the spring clockwise - gently - until you can hook it on the stop that is on the inside door. There will be some
tension of the spring around the shaft to cause the hook to engage to the slot in the plastic lever.

[*]This is where MOST of my problems were at:

4) Test the dispenser door to make sure when you close it, it springs back up. It WILL NOT hold when the door is off.
[*][I was trying to get the dispenser door to stay shut while the door was removed from the washer - this will NOT happen]
5) If number four is happening above, attach the door to the dishwasher.

Very Important: The door will only stay closed when the dishwasher is in the OFF position. Otherwise it will spring open when you try to shut it, because it is suppose to because at this time
in the cycle the detergent would be dispensing - hence the door being OPEN and the door not latching.

It is a simple process to replace the drain solenoid on these dishwashers, having replaced several in the past few months.

After removing the front bottom panels, I removed the 2 screws holding the old solenoid, unplugged the wire harness, and then switched over the springs to the new solenoid. Assembly was installing 2 screws, and plugging in the wire harness.

I work on a 260 + unit property, as well as working for a property management company who rents single family homes.

PartSelect.com is an excellent source of parts, shipping in a quick manner, allowing the repairs to be completed in a timely manner. Thank you.

I looked at the gasket for the door, and noticed that it was flattened out and also noticed that there were two other seals at the lower left and right corners that were also hard and flattened. I found the parts for my dishwasher on this site and ordered them. Once I received them, I removed the old ones. They just came right out, and I inserted the new ones in the same spot. It was then that I noticed that there is another gasket for the door, that goes at the bottom of the inside of the door. The gasket for the door goes all the way around the outside, except for about a 4 inch section at the bottom of the door, right in the middle. I realized that I probably needed to get a new one of those too, so I ordered that part. I am now waiting on that small, 4 inch door gasket.

Removed 7 screws holding "inner door" in place ( note: 2 bottom screws are different than the rest...keep separate).....remove rinse aid plug....press "tabs" inward to release rinse aid container. ( in this instance....the gasket had failed...which was "part" of the reason dishwasher was leaking during operation)

install new rinse aid container ...making sure that "trip arm" is positioned correctly........and press into place. ( Tabs should expand when container is properly positioned...creating a tight seal).....reuse old rinse aid filler plug.

Replace "inner door" cover....tighten screws.....

remove faulty tub corner baffles....place new ones in corresponding positions ( the baffles form a suction .....to stay in place....no adhesive needed)

Close door and operate as usual........no more leaks!

This is a super easy "no brainer"...that would have cost about half the price of a new dish washer ...had I hired a "professional" to do the repairs!!!!

The most difficult part was removing the dishwasher from below the counter. Once that was complete, I simply turned the washer onto it's front surface to access the pump easier. Simply disconnected the electrical connectors, loosened the three hose clamps holding the hoses to the pump. Lastly removed a stiff arm bracket holding the pump. Reversed the order to install the new one using a longer bracket provided with the new unit. Hooked up the electrical connections last and slid the washer back in place. The washer runs like new now and is not making noise. The replacement part was a perfect match.

for the top rollers you must remove thethe end cap. this was easy ,i placed a block of wood on the outside .placed the punch on the inside where the channel is pushed in to hold cap on. smacked it till it was pushed out far enough to remove end cap. new rollers simply snap on. very easy,

Siimply removed the rack and replaced the wheel assembly. Very easy

unscrewed 2 screws found on upper part of dishwasher that connected hose to spray arm found inside of dishwasher to remove hose. gently squeezed rubber gasket to work it into the hole found at the top center of the dishwasher, made sure rubber disc shaped gasket was seated properly into spray arm, screw spray arm back into place. The job was much easier than I thought It took about 20 minutes it saved me from buying a new dishwasher, the delivery of the hose was faster than the speed of light it took about i business day, I order the hose on saturday it arrived tuesday evening. Thanks for your excellent service

In order to access the fill valve, dishwasher had to be removed from under countertop. Disconnected water supply line and drain hose under sink. Unplugged unit and removed 2 screws holding unit to countertop. I was then able to pull unit out and replace valve. After reinstallation, the same problem existed. Further research pointed to the control module, approx. $100.00 or the motor, approx. $250.00 - $300.00. I than began looking at new dishwashers, but I did email GE with the problem. They suggested I use citric acid or vinegar in hot water, pour into right rear portion of tub and wait 1/2 hour. After doing that, the dishwasher worked perfectly.

Removed 4 screws in washer then removed cover. Then piston and nut assembly which just needs turned loose.Pull out and then,put new one back in,tighten up, put cover back on put 4 screws back in. Then unhooked water line, power cord, drain hose. Pull washer out and drained water out of system with drain hose. put a towel down to catch excess water. Loosen nut at end of drain hose with a pliers, remove flapper put new one back in tighten drain hose . Put washer back in hook water, power and drain hose. Run thourgh cycle and it should work much better.

took dishwasher out- put on table to work on-removed wire brace- disconected drain outlet- disconnected top drive seal- removed wire clip connector- removed motor unit----------------
installed new motor/drain unit--used new longer wire brac used adapter to connect electical leads-
tightened clamps and bingo it worked and didnt' leak. good job on the supplying of all the necessary adapers.

First I removed the dishwasher from underneath the countertop and laid it on its back. I used a nut driver to remove the pump support wire and the two clamps holding the rubber connectors to the pump. It helped to hook the pump support wire in a hole in the left side of the frame and reconnect it to the pump to hold it up out of the way. I was able to remove the rubber connector by hand and unscrew it. To install the new rubber connector tightly, I slipped a piece of 2" PVC pipe (outside diameter is 2-3/8") inside the connector and tightened the clamp around the connector and PVC pipe. This allowed me to use the pipe to tighten the rubber connector. I reassembled the dishwasher pump and connections and put the dishwasher back into service

Went to www.PartSelect.com. Part was easy to locate online with GE model number and illustraion online. They shipped the parts in two days and I put the new parts on by hand. Saved a $135 service call from GE. One part came in broken from the factory. Upon calling customer servce, PartSelect sent out a replacement part the next day - no problem. Great service, would be happy to use again - Thank you!

Simply discarded old wheel assembly and snapped new wheel assembly in place. Very simple.