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400910 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

All Instructions for the 400910
76 - 90 of 906

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Rusted racks
10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Erline from Glendale, AZ
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers
Lower Rack- removed old rack and slid new rack in place.
Upper Rack- Removed the 2 plastic stops on rack slides using pliers to squeeze,turn slightly, & pull out carefully not to break them (although your company also carries those if I would have broken them). I then removed old upper rack, slid new upper rack in, pushed plastic st ops back in rack slides and was finished
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Dishwasher was leaking between the pump motor and pump assembly
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jesse from Royal Oak, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
The repair went smoothly. There were actually instructions included with the parts, so that was nice. The only "gotcha" I found was that . . . after you take off the old food-chopper, you have unscrew the old impeller from the motor shaft. This was a bit difficult and you'll want some good pliers to do it. Don't worry about stripping whe re the food chopper screwed on-to, that part is attached to the impeller and there is a new one on the new impeller. When I re-installed everything onto the dishwasher, it rattled the first couple of times while the wear-ring was finding it's seat. Don't worry, that's normal. It went away by the third wash. I think I still have a small crack in the pump housing, though. The pump housing is two halves of molded plastic fused together along a seam, and I think the seam is starting to leak. It's about one drop every 45 seconds. I'm thinking JB Weld will fix it.
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Motor was jammed, just heard a humm from unit.
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brook from Madison, WI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
First I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned it onto it's side so I had access to the motor and pump underneath. I determined which version of the old pump I had. I removed the old part and easily installed the new motor/pump following the directions. It took a little while for the water to begin flowing when I started it back up. Eventually it did get going.
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attaching overflow micro switch to new plate
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • GEORGE from CHAMBERSBURG, PA
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Once i had the dishwasher removed everything went as the instructions indicated except for the overflow switch.I removed the switch from the old bracket which is not required,just install the switch assy. to the new bracket and proceed as instructed. the total repair shouldn't take more than 1 hour if you don't make the mistake i made.I AM VERY SATISFIED WITH PRODUCT.
I HAD NEXT DAY DELIVERY AT REGULAR POSTAGE CHARGE.
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Motor seized on 1990 GE dishwasher
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • DAVID from UNION MILLS, NC
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The motor seized up on my 1990 GE Dishwasher
Repair would cost 360. Replacement about 600
I ordered the motor and pump from PartSelect for 137..44
Remover the under counter washer (it‘s very light) and removed the water and drain line and disconnected the power. Turned the washer on it’s top to access the motor and pump an d removed the electrical plug in lines, and the clamps holding the pump on to the connections. Replaced it with the new motor and pump, reconnected the electrical plug ins, added an adapter hose part, tightened the original clamps then reconnected the water, drain and electrical connections and reinstalled the washer. All in about an hour, The only glitch was the grounding screw for the ground wire on the motor. The screw was too long to tighten. Substituted the original shorter ground screw from the old motor, and that worked fine. Only used 4 parts from the large assortment of parts supplied.
Immediately ran the washer through a cycle, all worked perfectly.
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The old pump for this 21 year old dishwasher was leaking. Reviewing the cost of a new dishwasher at the big box stores convinced me replacing the part would be much less money.
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Deep River, CT
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
I had hoped to be able to do the entire replacement at the floor level through the front panel without moving the dishwasher out of the cabinet. That turned out to be impossible because two of the machine screws holding in the old pump rusted and would not budge.
I did however manage to do the replacement by moving the dishwash er only 16 to 18" out of the cabinet so that I could work on more than one side. A word of advice: Once the pump is disconnected get it out of the house as soon as possible. It will continue to leak on your floor otherwise. No point in getting your pants, shirt and tools all wet.
The best part of this replacement came when I buttoned the whole thing back-up and ran it. This new pump was significantly less noisy than the old one making it possible to stay in the kitchen and actually have a conversation with someone. (My dog no longer leaves either.)
Would I do it again....you bet!
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Dishwasher would not Drain
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alfred from Fernandina Beach, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Since the pump and the motor was a single unit, I removed the assembly by disconnecting the electrical plugs and drainage connections. This was a very simple installation. I reversed the above steps, reinstalled the dishwasher and all worked out well.
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Broken Spray Tower in Lower Arm
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Phoenix, AZ
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
This was one of the easiest fixes i have ever done. All you need is a screwdriver. the hardest part about it was unscrewing the old spray arm. I found it was easiest to break the tabs on the old spray arm and pull out the spray tower, leaving the bottom part in. The bottom is the part to unscrew. I then put the metal end of the screwdrive r through the two holes where the tabs were and used the screwdriver as a handle to unscrew it. Once it was taken out, I screwed the new spray arm in - buy hand -. You can feel it lock when it is all the way in.
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Replace rinse aid fill cap
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Judy from Salem, OR
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
Opened the package and screwed in the new rinse aid fill cap. No problems. It fit and works just fine.
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How To Replace The Lower Spray Arm Assy.
10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Franz from Hazlet, NJ
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
First make sure the dishwaher is off and secure to work on: remove the lower basket, turn the broken spray arm assy counter clockwise, it may be tight, but no tool be need it, screw it all way out, remove it and replace it with your new one by turning clockwise,make sure its tight, no tools need it but basket in place and the dishwashe r is ready to go
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dishwasher filled base with clean water when not in use
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Harvey from Virginia Beach, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
The repair was really easy. I ordered the part needed after looking at this website. I figured out the problem by looking into the forums. I ordered the part. It came within several days. I got home from work and after dinner pulled the dishwasher from under the kitchen counter. It was easy to do. I flipped the dishwasher on its si de. Then removed the old part. It had a water inlet that required a fitting to be loosened with a wrench. It also had a flexible water fill that was attached with a cable clamp. (Remember to turn your water supply off first!) The wiring was disconnected by a simple harness. Four bolts had to be removed to pull the part off of the dishwasher body.

Installation was the reverse of this process. Have been using for a week now and the problem is corrected. Doing business with Parts Select is awesome. I know that over the last several years I have saved tons of money and learned that I can fix nearly any appliance by viewing this website.
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The seal for the drain valve was leaking.
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • mary from orlando, FL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I removed the front bottom panels to give me access to the Solenoid area. I did not take out the dishwasher from the cabinetry. I removed the screws holding the solenoid assembly and the C clip holding the hand fan shaped white nylon thing onto the valve shaft. I slipped these to the side. Then I cut through and removed the push on nu t with a wire snipper plier. Then I used a knife blade tip to pick out the black seal. I then slipped the new seal onto the shaft, being careful that the flat side was outward, and slid it down the shaft and , with my fingernail, pushed it completely flush into position. The biggest challenge was the push on nut. It does not push on easily and must have the lips pointed outward. It required the use of a 3/8" diamater tube slipped over the shaft to tap the nut down the shaft. This caused the shaft to push into the pump housing, which caused the valve to bind. So I used a vice grip to pull out on and hold the shaft while I tapped the push on nut with a flat head screwdriver. Then I just reversed the solenoid assembly removal. But , when I ran the dishwasher, it no longer leaked.
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Dishwasher was leaking
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Ira from Fort Edward, NY
  • Really Easy
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Socket set
Disconnected the electrical, water supply and drain. Pulled unit out from under counter, tipped it on its side and replaced the motor/pump unit. tipped it back on its legs put it back under the counter connected the water supply, drain and electrical. All went well. The unit performs as it should. it took about two (2) hours without rush ing through it.
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Valve was leaking
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Albuquerque, NM
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
I found that the supplied part did not have threads to receive the bolts that were used in the original part. I had to locate thin nuts and bolts and very awkwardly fit those in behind the part. The orignal part would have just bolted on from the front. I almost returned the part as unsatifactory, but decided to make do. Otherwise it would have been a 10 min job.
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Water stays in the bottom because the solenoid burned out.
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Guorong from Novi, MI
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
It is pretty easy to replace the parts because the new and old parts are identical. I unplugged wire connection, removed the two screws and one small metal piece that fixes the plastic moving part, then put back with new parts.
A little bit extra time may needed due to small space in that location, also the small or flexable screw d river is needed.
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All Instructions for the 400910
76 - 90 of 906