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6" surface heating coil remained warm when "off"
Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sleeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm. Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch. Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.
Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!
It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.
Turn off breaker in electric panel fore stove. Put screw driver into slots in front of glass top surface. Pry top up carefully until top pops up.Remove burner dial, remove two philips head screws holding switch. Lift top carefully and prop up.With new switch close remove wires from old switch one at a time and place on new switch. Place new switch back in place, securing with philips screws. Remove prop and carefully press top down until it snappes into place.Replace dial, turn breaker back on and try burner.
I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !
Burnner would go to high setting no matter what the setting was.
Shut off power at breaker box , pull stove away from wall , remove Phillips screws from back of range pull knob off of switch . Look to see how switch is oriented remove 2 screws that hold switch in . Remove one set of wires at a time and place on new switch in same location . Put back together in reverse order .
Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.
replaced Hi-Limit button by removing rear oven cover. Changing by removing screws than replacing with new button.................................. changed sensor by removing screws inside oven and replcing with new unit. changed connector behind rear cover.
The first set of racks did not fit. I called the Service rep, gave him the model number and exchanged the racks for the new ones. The new ones fit perfectly and the service was excellent. I would definitely recommend PartSelect.com to anyone who wants to deal with a company with excellent service, parts and representatives who know their stuff.
Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.
Broiler part wouldn't heat. Element internally broken
i removed the two screws that holds the element in. I pulled the element out and disconnected the wires and I had to adapt a double male adapter to the wire ends and plug the wires back onto the element. The old element had male spades and the new element had female spades.
I live in a small town in South East Colorado. We have just a Walmart and Sears and a few smaller hardware stores. I checked all of them to try to find this 25 1/2 inch Fluorescent Light Bulb, and nobody carried one. I would have had to drive 70 miles to find one. The Service of Partselect was wonderful and the bulb showed up in just 4 days. I was lost without this light. I have bought a few other items for my older appliances in the past from Partselect. com and was very happy with the service and how easy the web page is to navigate. .
Door gasket was hard and brittle from baked-on grease - heat leaking around door
Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.