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38802 - Instructions

All Instructions for the 38802
61 - 75 of 410

Search repair tips from other customers using simple keywords like "replace", "fit", "remove", "inspect". DIY doesn't mean you have to do it alone!

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Tub to pump hose leaking
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Barbara from Los Angeles, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
From the front of the washer, I removed two sheet metal screws at the bottom of the access panel. The panel pulled off with a just a little effort due to the nylon inserts installed on either side of the panel that keep it in place. The tub-to-pump hose is located on the right hand side and easy to access. The hose includes a screw clam p and two tension retainer (?) clamps that need to be removed.Make sure to save them for the new hose! I used a phillips head screwdriver for the screw clamp and a pair of channel locks to remove the tension retainer clamps. The tension retainer clamps were easy to remove but tricky to put back on. There must be another tool used for them that I'm not familiar with. With just a little patience though, it's an easy enough repair for anyone to do.
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Leaky Drain Pump
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Darrin from Cedar Rapids, IA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
NO EXPERIENCE NECESSARY!!
Unplug electrical.
Remove lower front panel -2 screws.
Locate drain pump in front right .
Remove electrical wiring plug - press release clip.
Remove mounting to floor - 2 screws.
Remove two hose clamps - pilers.
Mount in new part - 2 screws.
Reattach two hose clamps - pi lers
* be sure hoses are fully reattached.
Attached electrical wiring plug.
Attach front panel - 2 screws
Plug in the electrical and be proud of your accomplishment because you just saved a minimum of US$200.00. Congrats.
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The only problem was that the drive belt was so tight that it was two inches short from the drive shaft making it very difficult to put on by hand.
10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Bret from MILACA, MN
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
I did my best to stretch the belt out and as I wrapped it around the pulley one hand was preventing the belt from slipping off and the other hand had the screwdriver to use as Leverage to stretch and slip the belt on the other side of the pulley. One thing that I saw but didn't try was to use zip ties to temporarily hold the belt in place so it didn't slip off that may have helped.
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Washer would function for 2 to 3 minutes and then pause. "PAU" appearing on the display.
9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Stephen from Amarillo, TX
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Apparently the faulty switch was causing the washer to think that the door was open which would pause the wash cycle. The temporary fix was to disconnect/reconnect the door lock/switch assembly, thereby resetting the switch. Eventually though, the switch had to be replaced. The repair was simple. Unplug washer from power. Remove the metal band and spring from around the perimeter of the door seal. (I had to use needle-nose pliers for this step). Loosen the rubber seal near the door latch area only. Remove old latch by unscrewing the two screws, and disconnect all wired connections. Reconnect wired connectors using the new part and screw back on to the washer using the two screws. Reseat the rubber door seal and hold in place using the metal ring and spring you removed in the first step. Plug washer back in to power. That's it.
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Water valve not shutting off correctly
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Eric from Sebastopol, CA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
After the new replacement part arrived, I took off the complete back panel (after unplugging the electrical and shutting off the hot & cold water supply). I disconnected both hot & cold water hoses, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the water valve, unplugged the 2 electrical wires for the water valve sending unit, unclamped the outlet water hose. Then I reversed order with new water valve. Put everthing back together in about 20 minutes overall. I did also replace the hot & cold water supply hoses with a better quality hose. Works like new! Thank you very much.
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leaking water inlet valve
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Steven from Oklahoma City, OK
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
removed the two 'lock down flanges' from the back of the machine, lifted the top from the front and slid it forward to access the valve. Removed the two electrical connections then the compression ring from the hose on the output side. Removed two screws holding the valve in place, then reversed the process.

I wish this valve w as made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.
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No hot Water to washing machine
9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Dominick from Las Vegas, NV
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
S/O Water , Removed front panel, removed screws from side panel water valve accessible. Removed screws that hold water valve, installed new valve reassembled washing machine.
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washer door woild not lock and would not allow washer to operate
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from Merrimack, NH
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed top cover of washer to get to the door lock mechanism then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove door lock mechanism. I then replaced door lock mechanism with the new one I bought from PartsSelect. The repair job was very easy and took a total of 15 minutes to remove old part and install new one.
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washer would not spin out
11 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Linda from Dover, FL
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
First called a repairman.Wanted over $300 to put a new door lock assembly in.Searched the web, found PartsSelect,bought part for less than $75,husband did repair in less than 30 min.
VERY happpy customer.

THANKS
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The threaded male coupling on the water inlet valve is plastic and broke during moving.
8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alan from Denver, CO
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
I installed this part on a stackable washer-dryer unit. First, I removed the hoses (one had broken off already, damaging the cold water coupling). Using a nut driver I removed the screws on both L-brackets in back that help secure the dryer unit to the washer base. Then, I located 2 other screws securing the dryer to the washer base. These were fairly accessible in the recess where the dryer exhaust vent is located, directly above the water inlet valve. I removed both with a nut driver. I thought I would have to also unscrew 2 more screws on the other side of the dryer, but these were not accessible. So I lifted the side of the dryer I had unbolted to get to the water inlet valve. And voila! It lifted up. I placed a 2x4 on edge to keep the dryer tilted open. The inlet valve is attached to the back inside of the washer by a single screw on the Kenmore, which I removed with a phillips screw driver. Reaching inside the back of the washer, I disconnected the water hose by pinching the retaining clip with pliers. Then I pulled the electrical connections off the the hot and cold solenoids and the unit came out. The replacement unit was installed in reverse.
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Washer wouldn't spin clothes
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Forest Ranch, CA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
First thought the problem was with the spin cycle, however it soon became clear it was the pump that wasn't draining the water that kept the spin cycle from doing it's thing. After hand-wringing a large load and shopvacing out the remaining water, I ordered the new pump, got it in two days, and did a quick change out and it works perfectl y. During the removal of the rubber boot that connects the tub to the pump, the one thing I did discover was a yucky buildup of years of fabric softener which I couldn't break my wife from using. But, after showing, and more importantly, letting her SMELL the fungus/mildew in the sludge, I've finally broken her of the habit! Best bang for the repair buck so far.
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Kenmore 417.41042000 Front loading washer shakes
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Chris from Burtonsville, MD
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 1- 2 hours
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Paid $27 total for a shock kit to replace the 2 broken stock shocks. Replaced them. It turns out it was not the problem, but just a symptom of the spider bracket (mates inner SS drum to drive shaft) corroding and breaking causing the drum assembly to shake out of balance. Found out is a systematic problem with this model washer, and no ma tter what else you fix, this will break and kill it at some point. Piece of crap!
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pump quit working , washer was full of water!
7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
  • ROBIN from BLOOMINGTON, IN
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
first took off old pump off by removing 2 screws and removed 2drain hoses under front load washer with pair of pliers then put new pump on same as removal.
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tab broke off when the door was shut too hard.
9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • scott from albertville, MN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
2 screws and about 48 seconds of work. very easy.
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door slammed shut
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • May from Abilene, KS
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
door not level son slammed shut and door strike broke
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All Instructions for the 38802
61 - 75 of 410