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3842PRW Magic Chef Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 3842PRW
31 - 45 of 394

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Burner would only cook on high setting or not heat up at all.
9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Judy from West Salem, IL
  • A Bit Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Shut off power to stove. Moved stove out. Loosened screws in top and middle back of stove and removed cover. Took mental note of color order of each wire and unhooked each wire from old switch and reattached to new switch in exact order of color of wire as original. Remounted cover on back of stove and reattached screws. Turned on power and turned on burner and tested burner for heat. Turned off burner, slid stove back and bingo - done. Saved a lot of money.
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Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • John from Ashland, OR
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.
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Stove top wouldn't come on. Oven couldn't go higher than low heat
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Peter from FREDERICK, MD
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answer ed my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland
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Oven wouldn't heat
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marcus from Columbus, IN
  • Difficult
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
I removed the two screws that held the element in. I pulled the old element out and heard a loud pop. I didn't realize that I had to turn the oven off at the breaker to change the element. It blew the breaker and melted one of the connectors to the element. The wires didnt pull through the hole so I had to pull the oven out, take the b ack panel off, replace the electrical connectors, slide the wires through the holes at the back of the oven, connect the element and put it back in, now it works fine. Remember to turn the oven off at the breaker when changing the element, it could be a shocking experience otherwise.
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Replacement of bad switch
8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Don from Roanoke, VA
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
I marked all wires separately attaching a paper strip with tape to each connector and made a separate small chart where each wire should attach to the bottom of the switch. On this particular model there are three or four colored wires and two have both double and single connections to the same switch so the small chart told me where a s ingle or double connector would attach even if I lost the attached taped information. Then since wires were marked separately, even if paper was lost I could still proceed with no outside help.
I had the luxury of leaving the breaker shut off while waiting for part to arrive. After arrival which was only a couple of days, I raised the stove top and let it rest on a small board maybe 1.5 feet so it would keep itself up.
The under assembly was already taken loose before so I just removed the broken switch taking all wires loose, which are already marked and replaced the switch with the new one. Gently placing each wire at its place after removing the tape for that connection. After all four wires were connected I held the switch up in place while screwing the two set screws into place. Then reattached the bottom assembly cover and then let the top down and reattached the four screws, one in each stove hole to attach the stove top to the under assembly. I then reattached one element and flipped the breaker switch on. No sound or problems so I tried the element and all is well. Reattached all elements and the project is done. PartSelect.com made this repair easy and economical. Replacement would have been 4x the part and shipping. Thanks.
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electric coils would not stay flat as drip pans were incorrect fit
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Janet from Philadelphia, PA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
replaced drip pans with correct type
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The bake element broke at the rear causing a minor electric flash inside the oven
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • richard from Inwood, NY
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
You guys had a installation video which help greatly. I did run into a couple issues. Firstly, it didn't see a plug for the oven so I shut the power down from the panel. Lastly, disconnecting the old bake element from the electric insert at the ends was a bit challenging. The element and the inserts looks as if it was one piece but event ually it pulled apart. Installing the new piece was very easy. You want to consider adding additional legs under the bake element closet the area where the element connect to the oven inserts. When my old element broke and failed, the live piece can in contact with the floor of the oven causing a flash. It was a bit scary.

Thank you very much for your expeditious shipment and your follow up. Great job!
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Faulty bulb receptacle
10 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kenneth from Lynchburg, VA
  • Really Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged the stove and removed the back panel, disconnected the wires from the old receptacle, removed it, inserted the new receptacle, connected the wires, put the back panel of the stove on, plugged in the stove and then checked to see if the bulb was now burning. Success!
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light bulb in water ice freezer door went bad
8 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Carl from RIVERSIDE, CA
  • Very Difficult
  • More than 2 hours
  • Screw drivers
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
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6" surface heating coil remained warm when "off"
8 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
  • William C. from Sealy, TX
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sl eeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.
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Bake Element Failed
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Douglas from Plymouth, WI
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
Unplugged the stove. I removed the old element by removing the two screws holding it in, and plugged the stove back in. I ordered the part and it came in 2 days. Unpluged the stove again, connected the new element, and re-attached it via the two screws. Plugged it back in, and it worked great. Fantastic price and quick delivery. Only too k about 5 minutes to fix, and I saved at least $100 by not having to call a service man.
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Store-bought drip bowls wouldn't fit.
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Sharon from Yacolt, WA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
My elements just plug in so all I had to do was pull them out and replace the drip bowls. They fit perfectly!
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The heating element socket had crumbled with age.
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Edward from Webster, NY
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers
Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.
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power light on, but burner not getting hot
7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Aaron from Weymouth, MA
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.
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Burner no longer worked.
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Marcus from Emmett, KS
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed a screw that held the element in place then disconnected the two wires . Then I just reattached the two wires put the screw back in place and was done in about 10 minutes. Fairly easy fix, I had this go out a few years ago and had a repairman fix it, and saw how easy it was, so this time I did it myself. Easy job!!
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All Instructions for the 3842PRW
31 - 45 of 394