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363584 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the 363584
31 - 45 of 899

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Freezer wasn't keeping food frozen
24 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Alok from Alpharetta, GA
  • Really Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I turned the freezer off and took out all of the shelves in the freezer section. I then removed the guides that the shelves go into. I removed these only from one side of the freezer - the left side actually. Now I removed the plastic piece that keeps the bulb in the freezer protected. Removed the bulb. Removed the three screws on t he top and the two in the bottom that keep the rear panel of the freezer attached. This exposed the header cable and the coils. The coils had ice on the lower section, I used a hair dryer to melt the ice. Removed the cable assembly that has the two heater elements and the thermostat. The thermostat had to be plucked off the the metal pipe of coils. Replaced the assembly with the purchased assembly. Clipped the thermostat onto the metal pipe of the coils. COnnected the wires at the white connector. Attached the real panel using the five screws, put the bulb back in, installed the bulb cover, installed the shelf guides, put the shelves back in.

Freezer freezes very well now.
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freezer coils not thawing and fridge getting warm.
26 of 32 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Gerald from Ada, MI
  • Easy
  • 15 - 30 mins
  • Screw drivers
Replacing the heater is very easy. Remove the wire racks and the two lower rack bracket screws. Remove the two screws to the back panel, unclip the ground wire and remove the panel. Two screws hold he heater on and two wires for the connection.
However, this did not solve my problem. The story is this. The fridge was getting warm because the coils were freezing over. I called the local repair guys "poncho and lefty" and they came out and replace the themostat and charged me $150. It still froze over a week later. They came back and said it must be the circuit board and charged me just for the $125 part. Nope, it still froze over in a week. So I thought I would take things into my own hands and tell poncho and left to hit the trail. I then ordered a new heater because the old one looked bad even though it checked out okay with an ohm meter. Unfortunately, that didn't solve the problem either. The last thing is to replace are the temp sensors. But before I ordered anything I submitted my problem to a "fix it" forum and someone suggested to check the part number of the themostat that was put in. This turned out to be a brilliant observation. It seems poncho and lefty replace the thermostate with one that is used with a timer. This fridge has the timer built into the circuit board and has a very different temp range than the one they replace it with. Their first clue should have been that the wires were a different color than the one they were replacing and that the part number was totally different than the one they took out. So I ordered a new thermostat and the three temp sensors and replace all of this and the unit works as good as new. The forum also told me that the bullet shaped temp sensor were faulty and should all be replaced, which I did.
Now I have all new parts, so it should be good to go until the compressor takes a nose dive. Hopefully, that will not be for 5 or 6 more years.
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The old Solenoid was rusted and made a loud noise, also kept the trap door open.
24 of 27 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Kevin from West Palm Beach, FL
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
First I removed the face plate by lightly prying . Once removed noticed 4 screws. Removing the screws allows you to gain access to the two plugs, one for the solenoid and the other for the switch that energizes the solenoid . Unplug the connectors and carefully lower the piece enough to reach the 3 screws that hold the solenoid in place. The 4th screw in the center at the bottom of the solenoid is the ground wire. If it is rusted like mine was just re-attatch it to one of the solenoids holding screw. It must be grounded!
Just re-assemble, just dont forget to replug the connectors. Also a little hint, If you open the freezer door a little you wont trigger the solenoid.
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This seems to be a design problem because I have to replace this part about every other year since we bought it. I tried to talk to GE but all they want to do is send a service man out to replace the part for about 100.00, But I do it for around 15.00. I just think they should find out why the rubbe
26 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Jeff from Columbia City, IN
  • Really Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers
The repair is easy, just pop the grill off around the ice and water door, then there are 4 screwws to take out so the touch pad can be moved out of the way to unsnap the old door assm. and snap in the new one and wait about a year and a hald to order another one!!!!!
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Failed Icemaker
35 of 62 people found this instruction helpful.
  • GARY from PARRISH, FL
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Shut off power to the refrige. Removed old icemaker, using large hammer. Installed new unit.
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Freezer would ice up and refrigerator stop cooling
22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Brian from Tallulah, LA
  • Easy
  • Less than 15 mins
  • Screw drivers, Socket set
First i unpluged the power then cleaned everything out of freezer and removed all the drawers and racks them removed the 2 screws at bottem of freezerand removed panel then removed 4 screws on the bulbs and unpluged the wire and took off the sensor and replaced with new one put everthing back. Then on the top of refigerator side on the t op behind the adjuster is the defrost timer pulled handle out and off removed plastic shield and removed 2 screws and unplug the timer and change it then put everything back and pluged back in and everything worked in a few minutes
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low flowing water (not just a drip) from refrigerator ice maker
23 of 30 people found this instruction helpful.
  • Theresa from Rochester, MI
  • Easy
  • 30 - 60 mins
  • Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve. Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back.