363145 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

The small 4" gasket was missing from the machine, and the large gasket was bent and out of place. I ordered the small gasket and installed it into the groove, placing the end flaps behind the large gasket. The large gasket was questionable, but I did not replace it. It seemed OK after I snapped it back into the door groove. Once the g ... Read more askets were properly aligned, I carefully replaced the inside door panel and screws. No more leak!

Based on information gleaned from the internet, I suspected that the drain solenoid might have melted. I took apart the solenoid assembly and checked it out. I found that some of the plastic on the inside of the solenoid had indeed melted, making it impossible for the plunger that opens and closes the drain valve to move in and out smoo ... Read more thly and completely. I removed the old solenoid, replaced it with the new one, and the dishwasher worked perfectly.

I received panels about week after I ordered them, however the large panel came scratched. I immediately called your customer service who was extremely helpful and considerate. She ordered me a replacement and it arrived the very next day..

Excellent service, I was truly impressed.

Shut off circuit breaker to dishwasher and shut off valve to dishwasher under sink.Remove bottom access panel screws on both sides of panel. Remove both screws holding dishwasher to counter.Place old mattboard strips under legs to prevent scratching floor & slide out from under counter. Use a Shopvac to remove water and spillage. Have rag ... Read more s and paper towels handy. Carefully disconnect wires, drain hose and water line to free dishwasher. Fold old rug runner in half to place dishwasher on, turn on side and then gently upside down on rug to access motor. Remove butterfly clamps, hose clamps, electrical connections, and support bracket. remove old motor and pump and place in box to discard. Position replacement motor and pump according to diagrams. Reconnect all clips, hoses and connections. Since replacement motor and pump is smaller, use longer support bracket from adapter kit. Return dishwasher to upright position and reconnect wiring using wirenuts, drain hose and waterline. Reposition mattboard strips under legs and slide back into place. Attach screws to counter top. Turn on power, water and do a test run to check for leakage. Replace bottom access panel. Pat yourself on the back since you've saved yourself hundreds of dollars for a repair or replacement of your dishwasher.

First we got all the water out of the bottom of the dishwasher. Removed the old, melted drain solenoid. Very important - DO NOT THROW ANYTHING AWAY. The solenoid that removed was melted; however I had to reuse the springs, brackets and plunger from the old solenoid. I had to scrape and clean (with a solvent) the metal plunger to reuse it. ... Read more Once I got it cleaned up and re-used the old parts, mounting it was easy. However, getting that tiny lockwasher on the shaft was a real pain in the ass. Finally I got it together and it worked great.

I made this replacement more dificult because I removed the old motor/pump earlier. Should have done it at the time I installed the new unit to be sure all hoses where installed correctly. I hooked the drain hose to the wrong port and when I started the dishwasher I found my error. Once I corrected the problem and started it again - th ... Read more e wash and drain cycles were perfect and there were no leaks.

After determining the drainage issue was caused by the solenoid, (by process of elimination; the hose was clear, drain opening clear, diverter moving freely, power to solenoid present during rinse cycle= bad solenoid. Solenoid showed signs of overheating upon internal inspection...) I transfered the bracket assembly to the new solenoid, r ... Read more e-attached bracket to diverter reservoir, connected spring and power and Did a test run. Solenoid works great! I did notice the shaft on which the diverter pivots leaking just a bit while moving the shaft. You might consider oredering a new gasket for it if you plan to replace the solenoid. Pretty easy repair. Especially considering the complexity of some other possible problems! Good luck!

Disconnect electrical power & shut off water supply. Remove front panel covers. Removed mounting screws (2). Unhooked water supply line & flow line. Took off old brass adapter fitting. Teflon taped fitting to new inlet. Performed reverse procedures. It ran just fine!!

I ordered a replacement from partselect.com and received it in just three days. The only difficult part was deciding how to remove the white plastic end caps on the sliding rails. Finally, I took a small screwdrive and pried out the crimps in the metal, pulled the old caps out, inserted the new ones, and squeezed the metal together again ... Read more using needle-nosed pliers. Nothing to it!
Note: The configuration of the new rack isn't exactly like the original (size and placement of the prongs differ somewhat) but it fits perfectly and works great.

Since the pump and the motor was a single unit, I removed the assembly by disconnecting the electrical plugs and drainage connections. This was a very simple installation. I reversed the above steps, reinstalled the dishwasher and all worked out well.

The repair went smoothly. There were actually instructions included with the parts, so that was nice. The only "gotcha" I found was that . . . after you take off the old food-chopper, you have unscrew the old impeller from the motor shaft. This was a bit difficult and you'll want some good pliers to do it. Don't worry about stripping whe ... Read more re the food chopper screwed on-to, that part is attached to the impeller and there is a new one on the new impeller. When I re-installed everything onto the dishwasher, it rattled the first couple of times while the wear-ring was finding it's seat. Don't worry, that's normal. It went away by the third wash. I think I still have a small crack in the pump housing, though. The pump housing is two halves of molded plastic fused together along a seam, and I think the seam is starting to leak. It's about one drop every 45 seconds. I'm thinking JB Weld will fix it.

First I removed the dishwasher from under the counter. I turned it onto it's side so I had access to the motor and pump underneath. I determined which version of the old pump I had. I removed the old part and easily installed the new motor/pump following the directions. It took a little while for the water to begin flowing when I started ... Read more it back up. Eventually it did get going.

Once i had the dishwasher removed everything went as the instructions indicated except for the overflow switch.I removed the switch from the old bracket which is not required,just install the switch assy. to the new bracket and proceed as instructed. the total repair shouldn't take more than 1 hour if you don't make the mistake i made.I ... Read more AM VERY SATISFIED WITH PRODUCT.
I HAD NEXT DAY DELIVERY AT REGULAR POSTAGE CHARGE.

The motor seized up on my 1990 GE Dishwasher
Repair would cost 360. Replacement about 600
I ordered the motor and pump from PartSelect for 137..44
Remover the under counter washer (it‘s very light) and removed the water and drain line and disconnected the power. Turned the washer on it’s top to access the motor and pump an ... Read more d removed the electrical plug in lines, and the clamps holding the pump on to the connections. Replaced it with the new motor and pump, reconnected the electrical plug ins, added an adapter hose part, tightened the original clamps then reconnected the water, drain and electrical connections and reinstalled the washer. All in about an hour, The only glitch was the grounding screw for the ground wire on the motor. The screw was too long to tighten. Substituted the original shorter ground screw from the old motor, and that worked fine. Only used 4 parts from the large assortment of parts supplied.
Immediately ran the washer through a cycle, all worked perfectly.

I had hoped to be able to do the entire replacement at the floor level through the front panel without moving the dishwasher out of the cabinet. That turned out to be impossible because two of the machine screws holding in the old pump rusted and would not budge.
I did however manage to do the replacement by moving the dishwash ... Read more er only 16 to 18" out of the cabinet so that I could work on more than one side. A word of advice: Once the pump is disconnected get it out of the house as soon as possible. It will continue to leak on your floor otherwise. No point in getting your pants, shirt and tools all wet.
The best part of this replacement came when I buttoned the whole thing back-up and ran it. This new pump was significantly less noisy than the old one making it possible to stay in the kitchen and actually have a conversation with someone. (My dog no longer leaves either.)
Would I do it again....you bet!